Inside cut sanding

[bubbaloo158]

Hi all...

Being so new to scrolling I'm finding that I have to do quite a bit of sanding on some of my inside cuts.  I have lots of Popsicle sticks with sandpaper glued to them.  These can work well for the most part but I find I have to be really careful to make sure that I'm sanding on a 90 degree angle.  I'm talking about sanding birch. 

As I'm sure most woodworkers will tell you, sanding is the worst part of any job.  And so I did a search and found those 1/4 and 1/2 inch sanding belts that you put on your scroll saw to do the inside cuts - and even some of the outside cuts I imagine.  Has anyone ever tried these belts and if so, are they worth buying?  Do they work?

Thanks...

Bobby

[The WoodArtist]

Bobby, I have tried them. 1st thing is you really have to be careful to not sand too much with them which is easy to do. 2nd they don't last very long. So you ask if they are worth it? In my opinion from trying them no they aren't. A couple of things I use to sand, especially inside cuts is the sanding disk for my Dremil on 2 or 3 speed. Another thing I've done but not because of time involved making them, is I've taken some of my used thick blades and glued strips of sand paper to them and attach to my saw. The thing I use a lot is take a small butane torch and lightly use it from the back, but only if I'm using a backer, then use the Dremil with sanding disk and go over it front and back then take a sanding sponge and sand both sides. Hope this helps.

[BilltheDiver]

I find that with Flying Dutchman UR blades, there is little or no need for sanding inside cuts.  Years ago before reverse tooth blades sanding was such a pain it was very frustrating.  Now I only sand the surfaces and that is usually before I start cutting.

[Keefie]

I agree with Bill, using the Flying Dutchman UR blades means little or no sanding. Also as added bonus I find the blades last longer too.

[bubbaloo158]

Hi all...

I was just about to order some sanding belts from Lee Valley but decided I should double check my post before doing so.  Thanks for saving me money. 

I'm a little confused about the FD blades... in fact, I am using FD blades that I get from Mike.  I'm figuring that I have some sanding to do because I'm so new at this and am still getting used to keeping the blade on the line... thus, the necessary sanding.

I like the idea of gluing sandpaper to an old blade... gonna try that tonight!!!

Bobby

[The WoodArtist]

you can also tape it at each end but it won't do as good b/c it will be loose. Just make sure you use the right glue I use spray adhesive but not the temporay bond spray I use permant which is the same one I use for gluing my backings on with

[Keefie]

which FD blades are you using, I use the ultra reverse (every 3rd tooth is reversed) and it leaves an almost perfect finish

[Gabby]

So far I've been able to keep sanding to a minimum by sanding both sides prior to cutting. Afterwards when I've removed the tape from both sides of the cutting the tape will lift fibers and make it a bit rough. I'll lay it on a flat surface for support and use my Black and Decker (B&D) Mouse sander with the finest paper to sand it front and back. If you have saved your cutout pieces you can place them back in the cutting to stabilize fragile areas to help prevent breakage. I used this technique on my "Quigley" cutting (page 8 of Gallery) I did use a hand sanding block with fine wet or dry paper though, because there are so many large areas removed. Remember this is just touch up you aren't trying to remove a lot of material.
I hope you find this useful, good luck,
Gabby

[mrsn]

Practice will help make your inside cuts smooth. I used to have to sand lots but now they are pretty good. Still get the fuzzies on the back, I have been using a torch lately to burn them off but also use a ROS sander at times.
that being said, I liked the sanding things for the saw when I was sanding my cuts.

[bubbaloo158]

Keefie...

At the moment I'm using FD-P #2/0 and FD-P #5 which I got from Mike.
I've ordered and am waiting for FD-SR #3 and FD-SR #5 which again I've ordered from Mike.

Is there a different FD blade that I should be using that might give me better results?

I also like the B&D Mouse sanding option and will give it a try.  I'll also try, as was suggested, my Dremel sanding disc and see how that works out.

You are right when you say that only practice will make my inside cuts a lot smoother.  I still haven't gotten over the "fear" of going off the line and messing up the project and I probably have the saw going at too low a speed, not to mention feeding too slow.  I also have to get out of the habit of admiring every cut I make once it is done.  Doing so can be a huge time eater. lol

Bobby

[Keefie]

I think you will find the scroll reverse blades you are waiting on will give as good a finish on cuts as the ultra reverse, try them when they arrive and let us know the result.

[daliclimbs]

I can't recommended the FD ultra reverse enough! I have little to no sanding to do after using them.. if you are doing a lot of sanding because you are going off your pattern line I wouldn't worry to much about it. Once the pattern comes off most of those flubs disappear. If you are having a lot of problems with fuzzies try lightly burning them with a small torch and then sanding. Cuts out the bulk of the work.

[dgman]

One thing to consider is don't worry about going off the line. It is going to happen! What is important is if you go off the line, make a gradual return to the line. That wont show. If you make an abrupt return to the line, that will show and will have to be addressed.
If I make a miss cut, I go back and touch it up with the  right side of the blade. There is a burr on the right side of the blade which helps in trimming off a mistake.
A reverse tooth blade will help with the fuzzies, but will not eliminate them completely.
Sand your blank to final grit before you cut. That way when your are done cutting, you only have to touch it up with the final grit sandpaper. I sand to 220 grit for hardwoods, and 320 grit for Baltic birch.
Using good blades is important, but they are not going to solve all your problems. You need to learn to make smooth cuts. Let the blade do the cutting. If you have to push the wood into blade, then turn up the speed. If you can't stay on the line, then slow down the speed. Most importantly, keep practicing and have fun with it. If it isn't fun, you won't have good results!

[bubbaloo158]

I got my new blades today and couldn't wait to try them.  They are the ultra reverse blades... #3 and #5.  The #3 are sweet!!!  I finished up the project I have been working on in about an hour with the new blades.  My cuts were a lot smoother than what I've been getting with the older blades.  Luckily when I made my last order I only got 1 dozen #5.  I got 6 dozen ultra reverse #5 and 1 gross ultra reverse #3 today.  My only problem right now is that I'm kind of scared every time I have to make a sharp turn.  I have to get used to the more aggressive cuts these blades make.  I'm thinking that every newbie goes through this during the learning curve that goes with scrolling.  But with the new blades I actually turned up the speed on the saw a bit.  I'll be ordering more blades very soon... #1 and more #3.  I just can't get over the difference the ultra reverse makes.

As for sanding... I had to do quite a bit on the inside cuts I made with the old blades.  I tried the suggestion of gluing sandpaper to a used blade.  This really worked out well... really well.  I'll be using this method again as needed in the future.

As for the fuzzies... for the most part all I had to do was lightly skim over them with an X-acto blade.  It really worked out well.  But as mentioned... there wasn't very much to do after using the new blades.  (have I mentioned that I really LOVE these blades? )  I already figured out on my own that I should sand the piece of wood before starting the project.  However, once I remove the pattern it is a bit sticky from the glue.  In today's case I was able to use my sander on it seeing as the project wasn't very delicate.  It is now smooth as silk.

I'm going to put up a picture of my latest completed project... I just need to know where to put it... I want to make sure I put it in the right place.

Bobby

[bubbaloo158]

OK... I figured out where to put my picture... it is in my gallery.

Bobby