Craftsman 21602 First Impressions - Suggestions

[cahudson42]

Let me first thank everyone on the forum for their comments and advice on scrollsaw selection. As a result, the EX-16 (or larger, possibly) - is now on my 'bucket list'.

Meantime, because of severe financial limitations, I decided to start my 'scroll saw adventures' with the Craftsman 21602 - $107 with free shipping at the time.

The idea is simple - at this price - I view it as 'disposable'. If things work out, and I can eventually move up, I will likely just give it away to one of my kids.

I decided to not 'buy used'as I was concerned about 'invisible' wear - and slop. (Scroll Saws, in my view, are pretty complex - with the 'action end' usually at the end of long levers. Not ideal by any means.

So far, I am satisfied with the 21602. I do not have the 'knocking problem' Steve showed in his two videos on this machine - it appears the tension knob shaft may have been lengthened.

Front-to-back cut 'wobble'  seems minimal - making it theoretically a good start for my application - double-bevel marquetry in up to 1/8.

I don't think vibration is bad at all - even though I don't - as of yet - have the machine clamped down.

As I get a bit more under my belt with this machine, I will further report. But so far, here are a couple suggestions:

You can make life a bit easier by re-purposing the 0HFX BoltClamp and using it as a top blade clamp Thumbscrew. You likely will need to remove burrs/irregularity on the end of the screw to get it to clamp securely. I used my plane iron sharpening setup - which has some 600 grit wet/dry on a granite plate to sand smooth the end. Now the Thumbscrew clamps great.

I also suggest you do the following check. You might run into this same problem - particularly if you loosen the tension knob too much. (As I apparently did).

It helps to refer to the exploded parts diagram. What happened was - the machine suddenly lost tension in the middle of a cut. The Tension Knob was now loose. I tried to tighten it. THe machine lost tension again.

A bit of exploratory dissassembly found the problem: The lower rear arm '0AMX Bolster' had rotated in its retention slot because the prongs on the 0AMWSetPlate retaining fork had not been bent upward to capture the bolster in its slot. The top retaining fork prongs had been bent at the factory. The bottom retention fork prongs had not. The lower prongs are easily bent with two pairs of pliers after removing the retaining fork through the bottom. See photos.(is after I bent the prongs)

I've run it continuously now for a bit - and so far, no further issues. More later if anything develops. But I will be taking Steves suggestion to add a secondary table - probably just 1/4" MDF secured with carpet tape.

Chris

[daliclimbs]

Sounds good! When you are starting out you have to get what you can afford. And sometimes it works out great.. I am still using my "disposable" saw and loving it  .. I save all my earnings from shows to buy new tools. If you are looking into doing craft shows etc maybe you can do the same.. glad all is working out for you and thanks for sharing your review of your new saw!

[geneVG]

Nothing wrong with the craftman saw.  I have been using one for the last two years.  I have the 18 inch saw.  Good luck to you  on your new adventure in making saw dust.  Let see some of you  work sometime.

gene

[beginner]

You haqve the same saw a I do.  And you have done the same as me as for the thumbscrew.  I also added an air pump and made a insert to give me a zero clearance on the table.  I run my saw at either 1/4 or 3/4 speed with mimimal vibration.  So far I have no complaints.  Good luck to you.

[nclawman]

Did the OHFX thumb screw work in the top clamp without having to drill it larger? I've had my 21602 for just over a year and I am having the same problems you had! Any other advise is welcomed..Also can you advise about the bottom clamp as I am having problems with it holding.

james

[beginner]

I don't know what the OHFX is but the thumb screw that holds the hold down clamp fits with no drilling.

[nclawman]

thanks for the info...

james

[cahudson42]

My 0HFX Thumb Screw initially did not hold well. I needed to sand smooth the dimples and irregularity on the end using a granite plate and 600 grit wed/dry. After that, it works great.

Possibly the same procedure will help on the bottom allen screw. Take it out, inspect the end. If its rough and irregular, try sanding it flat - perpendicular to the threads.

I seem to remember Seyco selling some kind of clamp kit for the EX that had instructions to periodically sand the end. (Costs 1/2 as much as the Craftsman, too - as I remember). Thats where I got the idea to sand the thumbscrew.

[nclawman]

Thanks I will try that.

James

[cahudson42]

OK a bit more experience under the belt with the Craftsman 21602. Saw performs well. EXCEPT - with db-marquetry you are forever loosening the blade and threading it thru a new starter hole. While the Craftsman saws great, the lack of a quick-tensioning lever is a REAL pita. I can live with the blade holders. But the lack of a quick retensioning feature is enough for me to want to replace the saw with something else.

Turns out there is a soution - and its only $11.95. Even though Frank Pozsgai discontinued it 6 years ago, there may still be some availale at distrubitors. Its Frank's " 15" Scroll Saw E-Z Set Bladeholder Tension Release System'. I found mine at Wildwood Designs, their P/N T209: http://www.wildwooddesigns.com/EZ-Blade-Holder-Tension-Release-P4155.aspx

It installs in seconds. You don't even need to replace the tenion Rod. The existing one works fine. Here is a brief HOWTO:


1. Unscrew the red tension knob and remove it. (You may wish to remove the access plate below for the lower arm bolster so to hold it and not have it drop out.)

2, Place the tubular 5/8 x 5/16 spacer on the shaft - on top of the existing washer.

3. Place the foam spacer on the shaft/tubular spacer.

4. Place the washer that came with the tension clamp over the shaft.

5. Screw on the tension cam, with the cam horizontal (see photo). Tighten - as you would have with the red knob. Done.

6. Release the tension by pulling up the lever. Retension by pushing down. You may need to tweak the tension afterward with a bit of rotation of the cam lever.


Note that 'banging' during operation - as shown in Steve's video - will happen if the pinless blade is not totally seated flush against the top (and bottom) of the blade holders. THe top arm will bang against the forward edge of the plastic top shroud.

While not as convenient as a front-release quick tension lever, the substitution of the simple tension knob with the cam lever is some improvement. For less than $150 total you can have a decent scroll saw for db-marquetry. I'm no longer looking to replace it anyime soon.

[newfie]

i been using a craftman 16" variable speed saw for years. did a lot of work with that saw i can't complain about it at all.would love to get a EX-21 but its out of my price range for now anyway.