EX-16, EX-21, EX-30 - Accuracy, Wander, and Repeatability

[cahudson42]

While new to scroll saws, I have found on other tools that I am usually best using the smallest tool suitable for the job. A Festool TS-55 vs. the TS-75, a 10" simple chop saw vs. a 12" sliding mitre - etc. This is simply because of manufacturing tolerances and variability. Obviously, given the same absolute slop at a pivot-bearing point for example, if you are at the end of a longer lever, things will be worse.

Does this hold for the EX saws, or because of their design, the throat depth doesn't make any (or much) difference in accuracy, wander, repeatability etc.?

My application is double-bevel marquetry. Usually no more than 6" by 6". The EX-16 has plenty of depth. 

Any opinions on if the EX-16 would be better for this application? Or why should I buy the 21 or 30? Anyone with experience on more than one size of the EX who could advise on this?

Thanks for your advice!
Chris

[dgman]

Hi Chris, Welcome to the forum. I don't own an EX, but I have not heard of any difference in cutting of the three EX sizes. I don't see any reason the EX 16 wouldn't do what you need, nor would buying the 21 or 30 do any better. However, if you planned on doing more than the double bevel Marquetry, I would go with the EX21.
Please go over to the introduction page and introduce yourself so we can welcome you better!

[Barry]

The Ex saws seem to be of exceptional quality.  I gather from comments on this site that Seyco has a very good customer service record and it might be a place to consider when buying any Excalibur.

I have a Dewalt but hope to one day move up to the Ex.  If the smaller (16") saw meets your needs it would certainly be the least expensive.  I agree with dgman, however, and I would personally go with the 21".

You own Festool so you know what quality gets you.  If you buy either Ex let me know, on this site, how you like it.

Barry

[julief]

There should be no difference between the cut on the EX models.  I have used the 21 and 30 and find both to be exceptional.  I have the 21.  Will gladly move up to the 30 one day.  Buy the biggest one you can afford.  Even though you currently only use a small amount of the table, you never know where this art will lead you.  I have done everything from tiny to extremely large and wished for a bigger table.  If the space allows, go bigger.

As far as Seyco,  I used to live 10 minutes from Ray's shop and bugged the devil out of him.  I got my start and my beginnings from his advise, even before I owned an excalibur.  I bought my blades from him and picked his brain regularly.  I bought my saw, used.  He has always taken excellent care of my saw and I still do not hesitate to stop a visit with him when I go to dallas to visit my son.  If customer service is important to you, Seyco is the only way to go.

[tvman44]

I 2nd the customer service from Seyco, my new EX21 arrived with modifications by UPS so Ray is sending out a new saw which should be here in the next couple of days.  Ray is very knowledgeable and helpful and I plan to continue doing business with him in the future.

[spiderman]

I would just get an ex-21  I have mine for about 6 months now. I to have dewalt 788 type 2 scroll saw i'm just getting stick of it..  It getting to loud and the air hose keep falling off.

[cahudson42]

Let me first thank everyone for their comments and advice. As a result, the EX-16 (or larger, possibly) - is now on my 'bucket list'.

Meantime, because of severe financial limitations (retired, living on SS), I decided to start my 'scroll saw adventures' with the Craftsman 21602 - $107 with free shipping at the time.

The idea is simple - at this price - I view it as 'disposable'. If things work out, and I can eventually move up, I will likely just give it away to one of my kids (twins, 29 yrs old..:>).

I decided to not 'buy used' - as, since I am a retired Mechanical Engineer, I was concerned about 'invisible' wear - and slop. (Scroll Saws, in my view, are pretty complex - with the 'action end' usually at the end of long levers. Not ideal by any means).

So far, I am actually impressed with the 21602. I do not have the 'knocking problem' Steve showed in his two videos on this machine - it appears the tension knob shaft may have been lengthened.

Front-to-back cut 'wobble'  seems minimal - making it theoretically a good start for my application - double-bevel marquetry in up to 1/8.

Having been around for a long time, the rough cast iron sand castings don't bother me at all. (I made ones in Shop many, many years ago that were far worse). They add weight - 41 lbs total as I remember. I don't think vibration is bad at all - even though I don't - as of yet - have the machine clamped down.

As I get a bit more under my belt with this machine, I will further report.

I learned enough here to get good FD blades, as well as a few 'precision ground' for resaw - straight line stuff (From PTI? God awful expensive, IMHO)

Thanks everyone for the education - and I hope to report later after some more use of the 21602.

Chris