I NEED HELP!!!

[Jsharrison]

Alright guys I am still pretty new at this and am about to give up so please help me out. I am using an Olson blade 18.5 TPI thin kerf blade for sharp turns (item # 42401) and am trying to make a simple puzzle. http://fssp-arpop.blogspot.com/search/label/State%20Puzzles here is a link to the pattern ( I am doing the Ohio one). I can't seem to make real good turns. When I try to turn it seems to just "skip" I try turning and it just wants to go in its own direction. I really don't know how to explain it. I have the tension pretty high and have tried loosening it and I have adjusted my speed. Please help!!!


Thanks,

Jeremy Harrison

[Gabby]

Jeremy,
It sounds to me like you need to practice a bit more until you can make those turns. Don't loosen your blade keep it tight.
Perhaps some of the puzzle makers here will have more suggestions for you. I'd put it away for a while and PRACTICE.
Gabby

[Bill P]

Jeremy,

Without seeing what you're doing, it's going to be very difficult to help, but it sort of sounds to me like you might be trying to feed the wood too fast.

I wish I could help more.  Good luck.

Bill

[dgman]

Hey Jeremy, Can you look at the package of your blades and tell us what the universal blade size is. That is what most of us go by. Also what kind and thickness of wood you are using. That will give us a better idea of what your problem is.
As far as tension is concerned, You want it as tight as possible without it slipping out of the blade clamps. You want a high "ping" when you pluck it.

[Jsharrison]

Hey Jeremy, Can you look at the package of your blades and tell us what the universal blade size is. That is what most of us go by. Also what kind and thickness of wood you are using. That will give us a better idea of what your problem is.
As far as tension is concerned, You want it as tight as possible without it slipping out of the blade clamps. You want a high "ping" when you pluck it.

I couldn't find a size on the pack. Here is a link showing what they are. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295602. And I am using 1/4 birch.

[dgman]

I see they are pinned end blades. They don't use a universal blade size so it's hard to decide what size they are. What kind of saw are you using and at what speed are you cutting at?

[Terry Jackson]

Sorry, but several observations, none personal.
You are using pinned blades.  I don't, but the ones I have seen are thick and clunky.  A puzzle blade is not much bigger than a cat whisker.  
Anything 1/4" thick is a challenge because it offers little resistance and cuts easily.  But it is used in puzzles a lot.
Finally, in making a turn just release all the push and twist force and let the blade just go up and down in the same place. Now turn the piece quickly while also ever so slightly pulling the piece back towards you.  You want to pivot on the back of the blade, not the front.
Finally, use some scrap and keep cutting your version of the Ohio River.  It will soon come to you.
And order some pinless blades if your saw will take them.  Brands are Pegas, Olson and Flying Dutchman.  Get puzzle blades as they are quite thin and made to turn quickly.  And keep the tension up.  And most of all, have fun.

[Gabby]

Check and see if you can use the pinless blades, much of what you can get in hardware and building supply / lumber stores isn't of the highest quality. Since you are just starting out the pin end saw blade combination will be OK but if you intend to do fret work (inside cutting) you will have to move to a pinless scroll saw or see if there is a conversion clamp set for your saw. Pinned end blades won't be able to go through the little holes you often have to use for fine fret work such as portraits.
The folks here will gladly recommend their favorite saws. Quite often the cheaper ones will leave you frustrated in the long run, So buy the best you can afford. Craigslist often has bargains depending on the area. If you can try it before buying you won't get any nasty surprises. If you can use pinless blades contact FD Mike here on the forum His blades are probably the best around, and reasonably priced too.
Gabby

[Gabby]

Terry I've never seen anyone explain that before. What a great tip!

here it is again.
Thanks Terry, Gabby


"Finally, in making a turn just release all the push and twist force and let the blade just go up and down in the same place. Now turn the piece quickly while also ever so slightly pulling the piece back towards you.  You want to pivot on the back of the blade, not the front."

[Jsharrison]

My saw does have a set of clamps that came with it to take pinless blades. I haven't bought any yet because I didn't want to keep sinking money into something if I didn't know I can do it yet. My saw is one of the cheap ones (it was a chirstmas present so I can't complain). I do want to try some of the puzzle blades I think that might help. The whole trick about turns kinda helped me, I just tried it real quick and it seemed to help. Thanks for all the advice guys and I appreciate it if you keep it coming.

Jeremy

[Gabby]

Needless to say you are welcome and the folks here are willing to help anyone out.
Keep the questions coming, none are too dumb except the ones you don't ask.
Gabby

[mrsn]

I happened to find a thing of those blades in my blade box...in the very very bottom, I haven't used pinned blades since the third time I used my saw. I personally wouldn't use that blade for a single thickness of 1/4" plywood. I would use a puzzle blade or a number 2. When I cut a single layer of 1/4" plywood I run the saw slower then other times, I also slow down the feed a bit. As Terry mentioned it can be harder to control a piece of 1/4" ply then a piece of 1/2" (or a stack totaling 1/2") Terry also explained the turning process really well. Keep practicing it and it will get easier and easier. Also, show us the finished puzzle, we love seeing progress.
MrsN

[Bill Wilson]

My saw does have a set of clamps that came with it to take pinless blades. I haven't bought any yet because I didn't want to keep sinking money into something if I didn't know I can do it yet.

Jeremy

Aside from the saw itself, proper blades are the single most important factor that will determine whether or not you want to go further with this hobby.  A dozen good blades from any number of sources on the internet will set  you back about $3.00 and will make a world of difference in your scrolling.  Do yourself a favor and order some Flying Dutchman or Olson blades.  You will be glad you did and will be well on your way to getting hooked on this hobby.   

[Jsharrison]

I just ordered some Flying Dutchmen blades from Mike. Lets hope that helps.

[cameronj]

You are on the right track, now, Jeremy.  When I first started scrolling years ago, I was using Olson pinned blades.  When I bought my Dewalt saw, i started using Olson plain blades.  What a difference between the quality of cutting with the plain end blades. 
Most of all, don't give up.  Keep practicing, and the more you do, the better you will become.  We all know that from experience.
And don't be afraid to ask for more help.  We are here to help....I needed it too.
Jim