Polymer Clay. ??

[dunk]

Steve has several patterns for using polymer clay as an inlay.   I've run into a problem.

When sanding the clay after baking, the color of the clay tends to bleed over into the surrounding wood. If using a red clay then sanding the clay on the wood leaves a pinkish tint to the area around it. I haven't seen this on any of the project photos, so there must be a way to prevent it.    Do I just need to keep sanding until the bleeding stops?   Am I not baking the clay long enough?

Any hints or tips?

Thanks.

[DaveP]

I think it may be best to use 'sanding sealer' first to prevent the bleed ?

Maybe 

[GrayBeard]

I am wondering if the clay was completely dry.
Have never used it but that would be my first reaction.

~~~GB~~~

[tux_linux]

I had the same problems - I was told that the wood was too weak. have not tried it again with harder wood - but will.

[rob roy]

Hi Dunk, I would agree with DaveP and GB. I would suggest that you use a timber with a much closer grain. Good luck.
Best wishes from Scotland. Rob Roy

[SheGold]

Hey Dunk I had the same problem but if you sand a bit more it releases the pink.. Hope this helps... Sheila

[dunk]

Thanks for the responses.  I have been using hardwoods, including Poplar, chestnut, walnut.

[KarlB]

I just used some clay the other night and I did overfill the cuts to make sure every part was filled.  So I had clay in the grain as well (oak hardwood).  I just sanded until it was gone.

My problem was the wood split due to the heat in the toaster oven I baked it in.  I glued and clamped it and you could never tell, but I will look to use a different wood or make sure none of my cuts are near an edge.

Karl

[mrsn]

I was able to blow out the colored dust with an air hose.

[tux_linux]

Poplar is definitely too weak.

[jscott2]

I used the clay for the first time last night and overfilled the openings in the wood as I recall Steve said it would shrink as it cured.  It seemed to actually get larger as it dried - has anyone else found that happening?

The instruction on my clay says to cook for 30 minutes at 220 degrees but not to exceed 265 degrees.  I used an old toaster oven (didn't dare use the LOML's oven) and checked the temperature with a thermocouple connected to a VOM and found the temperature cycled from about 170 to over 270 degrees!  The clay seemed to cook OK anyway.

After a lot of sanding, there was no clay left on the wood around the clay parts but I did have to sand off some of the wood to get it to look good.  Even though it was cooked for about 3/4 of an hour, this morning it seems the clay might have shrunk slightly.  Has anyone else noted this effect?

Jim

[woodcutter]

I have used the clay in maple and baked for 30min at the right temp.
Let it cool then sand. It worked fine for me

Jim

[GrayBeard]

I'm not sure about the polymer clay but in cooking we caution when sharing recipes that using a 'toaster oven' or a 'convection' oven may change baking times!

Both will cook 'hotter' and quicker than a conventional oven. The heat is more concentrated so it tends to speed the process.

Crossover information!

No Charge!

~~~GB~~~

[chief]

i have done one project with the clay and it was made from poplar.  I didnt have any problems with "bleeding" at all.

[daliclimbs]

Hey folks. I have done a lot of inlay with my woodturning. A lot of bleed comes from moisture in the wood. When u put it in the oven  etc, the moisture in the wood escapes and causes the pigment in the clay to bleed. Even if your wood is kiln dried its at about 6-12% moisture..I have found that sanding sealer does help in some cases.