Alder wood

[geneVG]

I made a clock out of alder wood, my first time useing this wood, I like the natual look.  I sprayed it with poly, two time and can not see any difference in the look of the wood. It is not as glossy as the other woods.  I wonder if I am doing something wrong.

gene

[dgman]

Hey Gene, I love alder! It is soft for a hardwood. it will soak in the finish like pine does. What I like to do is soak it in the linseed/ mineral spirits mix, Then when dry apply two or three coats of Deft semi gloss lacquer. I sand between coats with a piece of brown paper bag. It is like 1200 grit sandpaper without the sandy grit. You can also use 0000 steel wool or 1200 to 2000 grit sand paper, but the brown paper bag is the easiest.

[geneVG]

Thanks Dan, I will try that.  Alder is so far the nices hard wood I have worked with, and the grain is really nice too.  Thanks again.

gene

[Rapid Roger]

Gene,
I kinda hate to bring this up but.............If you sand your wood to about 120- 220 grit (either before or after you cut your pattern) and then.........Apply a thin coat of.......shellac..... and sand the nibs off again, It will fill the pores enough that the polyurethane will have an nice gloss with just one or two coats.
I also agree with dgman that a piece of brown paper sack makes a nice (almost 4000 grit) sanding paper for between coats of poly.

Rog

[Terry Jackson]

A bit late to the party here, but I usually sand to 320 and apply sanding sealer before I cut , then the pattern, then cut, then a finish sand and more sealer, then finish.  Putting the sealer on before I cut seems to lessen the furry backs, even with the reverse blades.  And almost all my work is in Alder, Alaska Birch or Bigleaf Maple. 
Terry