Help with my different blades

[northie66]

When I started scrolling, I didn't know what blades to get.  So I got a little of everything.  Can anyone tell me what I have?  They are all Flying Dutchman blades.  I have no idea what blades to use for what.  I mean, I know alot of it is personal preference but there must be some kind of guideline.

Blade Type                         Sizes
-- -----------                         ------
Iron Man                            3,5,7,9
New Spiral                          2/0,1,3,5
Ultra Reverse                      1,3
Penguin Silver Reverse         2/0,1,3,5,7,9
Reverse                             7,5,12
Two Way Cut                      2/0,1,3,5,7,9
Scroll Reverse                     2/0,1,3,9
Polar                                 2/0,1,3,5,7,9

I seem to be using the Polar blades but I'm not sure why.

Thanks!

[ripchief]

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/whatblad.htm

also, look at:

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/Q&A-FP.htm

[Russ C]

Janet,

Blade Type                                             
Iron Man ---Top Quality (Metal Blade)
New Spiral ---A newly designed spiral blade, easy to control and long lasting.
Ultra Reverse ---Top-grade high-speed fretsaw,  with reverse teeth. Splinter-  free finish on top and bottom surfaces.
Penguin Silver Reverse ---Top-grade wood-cutting fretsaw with double teeth, hardened steel.
Reverse ---Top-grade high-speed fretsaw, hardened, with reverse teeth.
Splinter-free finish on top and bottom surfaces.
Two Way Cut ---Top quality saw blades for wood with alternating 
2 down and 1 up tooth placement
Scroll Reverse ---Top-grade high-speed fretsaw, hardened, with reverse teeth.
Splinter-free finish on top and bottom surfaces.
Polar ---Extra hard, longlasting, skip-tooth blades for wood, horn and various plastics.

For most of my work I am using the new Ultra Reverse..
It would be a good idea to talk to Mike before ordering blades, so you don't end up with blades you may never use. 

[AnotherSteve]

Thanks, Russ.  I just printed out your answer and will post it in my workshop. 

[ripchief]

Here's the source page of the info Russ gave us, just in case you need to look up something that wasn't listed...It also gives specs for each blade (teeth-per-inch, thickness, drill hole size, etc).

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

[ripchief]

In the interest of fairness, Here's the chart for Olson brand blades:



[attachment deleted by admin]

[jim stiek]

I think the key is to keep an adquete number of theeth in contact with the wood at all times as an example a 2/0 will cut thicker material but  a larger blade will prove more satisfactory if your pattern will permit. to small a blade with fine theeth on thicker projects will be harder to control overall. sometimes I use several different blades on the same project. hope this helps.

[UHMNL]

ripchief,
You can not compare the Olson blades with the FD blades.
They have different sizes for each number of blade.
FD Mike

[ripchief]

Mike...Comparing the two blades wasn't my intention...You are correct, you can't directly cross-reference between Olson and Flying Dutchman (or any other brand for that matter), as I've previously mentioned elsewhere in this blog at the following link:

http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=67.msg681#msg681

My intention was to simply offer the Olson blade information, because I had already posted links to the blade specs that are available on your website...I also posted references to other information that's available on your site that readers might find helpful...My thinking was that after seeing the reference to the Flying Dutchman specs, someone might start thinking about blade specs for other brands...The other reason that I offered the Olson chart was because, as we both already mentioned, not all blade manufacturer's specs can be cross-referenced...Some readers might notice this after reading both brand's list of specs.

[Rightarm]

 Hey Janet.
I have used different blades, but the one I always go back to is the Olson Mach Speed #5R 13 TPI 7 Rev. I like these blades because I use a lot of cherry & walnut. It leaves a smooth cut with little sanding. Dave

[northie66]

This chart is da bomb!  What screen name is the owner of the Mike's Workshop site?

[GrayBeard]

Mike goes by "FD Mike" on this group....

Call and talk to him! He is an absolute encyclopedia of blade information!

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[UHMNL]

Janet,
I got a message from you but did not
understand what it was about.
Please email me direct.
FD Mike

[ripchief]

GrayBeard is right, Mike is THE source of information on blades.

In fact, here are the three biggest sources for information out there (at least in my opinion, and in no particular order):

Steve Good - www.scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com

     - Steve's site specializes in patterns/projects/cutting (Steve has the largest source of free patterns available)

Mike Moorlach - www.mikesworkshop.com

     - Mike is the blade guru (his site is a "one stop shop" for everything blades)

Rick Hutcheson - www.scrollsaws.com

     - Rick probably knows more about scroll saws than the people that build them (he also probably has THE largest personal collection of scroll saws anywhere)

Saws, blades, and patterns...Those are the building blocks of this craft; everything else is just icing on the cake.

[dankc908]

I tend towards the Polar blades most of the time - That is due to the fact that I, primarily, cut exotic hardwoods as well as cherry and walnut.  Almost always at or bigger than 1/2".

Dan