Skip Tooth vs Reverse Tooth

[Gordo]

I have always used a skip tooth blade but am considering trying the reverse tooth blade.  I understand that the reverse tooth does a cleaner cut!  Is that right and what would other differences be?

Thanks

[cherie]

I use a reverse tooth all the time.  I have tried other blades and found that I am happiest with the reverse.  I use mostly #2's since most my work is small and about 1/8 to 1/4 thick.  If I have any bigger projects I will use a #5 or #7.  The reverse does a much cleaner cut and does not require much clean up on the back or within the work.
Just my thoughts, hope this helps.

[garyinnevada]

Hey Gordo,
I used to use nothing but the Skip Tooth til I discovered the Reverse Blade. They are great blades. I use the 2, 2/0 and rarely a #5
I have found that Olson is the best blade made.

Gary

[Barry]

Hi Gordo,

I use the Flying Dutchman Reverse blades and I get them from Mike's Workshop.  I mainly use the #3 and #5's for most cutting.  Mike has some nice jigsaw puzzle blades, also.  Get in touch with him and he will send you a introductory sample of five of his most popular blades.  Olsen makes nice blades (as Gary said) but I have better luck with the FD blades.  Mike is great to talk with and will provide you with excellent customer service.

Barry

[keidiag]

I'm a strong believer in the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse (every third tooth is reversed , not just the bottom 6 or 7 teeth). I tried them about a year ago and was amazed with the results I got. No More breakouts, even in 1/8" A4 Oak Ply and 1/8" BB ply. These blades are very aggressive and take a while to get used to them. When I first started using the Ultras I had to keep the speed at about 1 1/2 on my 788. After I got used to them I was able to increase the speed to 6. I usually try and use the #1 for everything I cut. I found that the #1 will handled up to 1/2" BB with no problem, I'll switch to the #3 if I have to cut anything thicker than 1/2". I very rarely have to use a #5. I don't have anything beyond the #5 in the Ultra...I don't think they are needed. The biggest plus factor for these blades is that there is very little cleanup to do on the back of your work.

The big secret about these blades is to just to let the blade do the work and don't push your work. Change the blade if you have to start pushing.

I get these blades from Mike's Workshop.

Keith

[cherie]

Gordo,

As you see everyone has their own opinion about blades.  So far it looks like the reverse is gonna win out.  What you choose is up to you.  Good luck and happy cutting.

[dgman]

Gordo,
I use nothing but reverse tooth blades. I know most scrollers use the Flying Dutchman blades, but I prefer Olson.blades. I buy them by the gross From www.sloanswoodshop.com.
Since I do many types of scrolling I keep on hand blade sizes from 0/2R to 12R.

[cameronj]

When I was first introduced to scrollsawing, I was given the reverse tooth blades to use(#7).  I used them for everything at that time - pine, plywood, both 3/4" thick.  Now I am doing alot of very fine, intricate work and use a skip#1 for that.  But anywhere shere that project has a fairly straight, longer line to cut I switch to the reverse 7.  I find that the reverse blades have little to no tearout on the underside of the wood, and give a much smoother finishing cut.  Of course, a longer line that is fairly straight or a gentle curve, is easier to cut with the stronger reverse blade.
Have fun.

[mouse]

Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse are the best blades I have  used for general cutting. For puzzles I use the FD special puzzle, and the FD Ironman for cutting non ferrous metals.

[Gordo]

Based on the comments I am going to order the Reverse Tooth - great to have a site like this to get this feedback!

[cherie]

Great Gordo, now show us your reverse work.  LOL.  Cannot wait to hear how you feel about reverse tooth blades.

[dgman]

Gordo,
A tip when cutting with reverse tooth blades: Since the bottom teeth are pointing up, the wood will want to "bounce" up and down on the table. You will have to hold down the wood a little harder than usual, but soon will become second nature to you!

[cherie]

Dan, The wood does not bounce when I cut with reverse.  I do not seem to have that problem unless it is a very dry piece that is also brittle.

[UHMNL]

Cherie,
Some people don't have enough speed and start pushing too hard into the blade. Instead of cutting, the blade will grab the wood what makes it bounch.
FD Mike

[GrayBeard]

Bouncing Wood!
I find that when I get in a bit of a hurry to get something completed or to get ready for a meal break I start pushing and then the wood 'bounces' and I have to remind 'self' to sloooooow down and let the darn BLADE do the work!

~~~GrayBeard~~~