Author Topic: Blades....  (Read 4015 times)

Offline GrayBeard

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Blades....
« on: March 24, 2011, 01:57:17 pm »
We all have our own idea of what the 'best' blade is for a particular project on the scrollsaw.

Now I am asking what those of you who use as your blade of choice on your TABLE SAW when cutting your various woods to size for your projects.

I have a low end Skil table saw because I could not justify the cost of anything more 'exotic' for the few things I need it for.

~~~GrayBeard~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Offline Russ C

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2011, 02:24:25 pm »
Allot of my saws are Dewalt and came with their blades. I have had good luck with Dewalt blades and they can be sharpened several times before they wear out.  :)
russ@simplywoodencreations.com

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Offline GrayBeard

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2011, 03:33:40 pm »
MY interest is in what 'type' blade...i.e. Crosscut, plywood, thin kerf, carbide tipped, etc.
Number of teeth?

~~~GB~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Offline Russ C

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2011, 03:44:21 pm »
What is the size of the blade...ie 10" ?
russ@simplywoodencreations.com

Keep The Blade On The Line.

Offline Rapid Roger

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2011, 04:33:58 pm »
Assuming you saw uses a 10" blade (altho it doesn't matter) I recommend a thin kerf (less than 1/8" thick but, a bit more than 1/16" lets just say about 3/32") and as many teeth as you can get. Mine is an 80 tooth "plywood blade" made by Freud.
Also you want to be sure and use a 0 clearance insert on the saw. You can make your own insert out of plywood. Make sure that the thickness of the ply will make the top of the insert flush with the table. (You can glue shims on the bottom if necessary.) Leave the insert blank, crank the blade all the way down and install the insert in the table and move your fence over to hold the insert down but making sure it doesn't cover over the blade. (You also can cover the insert with a board long enough to reach clear across the table top and use clamps to hold it down.) Now turn on the saw and SLOWLY crank the blade up to cut through the insert. It will guarantee that you have 0 clearance on each side of the blade. If the insert won't lay down flat because the blade won't go down far enough, you can cut a shallow grove on the bottom of the insert with a dado blade in the right position or you can use a router to thin the insert where the blade is hitting the bottom of the insert.
I recommend a thin kerf blade just because there is less wasted material with it. I recommend ALOT of teeth because it cuts plywood smoother and cleaner and also give you an almost "finished" edge on solid wood even tho it can burn when ripping (especially cherry and other hard woods) You are suppose to use a blade with fewer teeth (40) for ripping solid wood and more teeth (60) for cross cutting but, no more than a scroller cuts on a table saw (and the saw doesn't care) you won't hurt anything.
As far as brand of blade, again long life on a TS blade for a scroller isn't as important as it is for some wood workers.
You can spend as little as $25.00 or as much as $120 on a good 10" table saw blade.
Hope that helps.

Rog
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Offline BilltheDiver

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2011, 06:03:26 pm »
I think RapidRoger is right on about the blades.  I also use Frued primarily.  Only difference is I use a 60 on my table saw and 80 or up on my radial arm.  There isn't really a lot of need for a full kerf blade on a table saw anymore as the technological advances in blades make the thin kerfs much more stable.  There are many good brands out there, but Frued is on of the best.  There is a local sharpening outfit near me who only charges $9.25 to properly sharpen a 10X60 carbide blade.
"Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

Offline julief

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2011, 06:09:38 pm »
I keep a 60 tooth on my table saw and an 80 tooth on my miter saw.  The reason I go with a 60 on the table saw is that if I use a tighter toothed blade, the wood tends to burn.  The space in between the teeth is provided for air to circulate and to allow the sawdust to escape.  If it packs in or does not have the opportunity to escape, the blade overheats and burns the wood. 

Tim2beupinAz

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2011, 06:45:45 pm »
I use the Forrest 40 tooth blade. I don?t use the thin kerf though. I use the .125 and love it. The blade was about $110 dollars but has done me real good. I use an 80 tooth on my miter saw. It is a thin kerf Irwin blade and I have no complaints about that blade as well. It is good for a $25 blade. With any blade you go with I would stick with a 40 tooth or so for your table saw. It is a good all around cutting blade for rip cuts and crosscuts.

Offline Russ C

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2011, 06:55:37 pm »
Wow. I am amazed at how the knowledge base of the forum has grown. It is really great to see everyone chime in and post so much information.

All I can say is I agree on the information provided by Rog, thin kerf and more teeth make a finer cut. Oh, yes one more, needs to be carbide tipped.  :)
russ@simplywoodencreations.com

Keep The Blade On The Line.

Offline GrayBeard

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2011, 07:19:08 pm »
OK...Here's what I can get with no shipping charges...

Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating... .098 kerf - $35

Looks to be a good combination for my meager and general use.

~~~GB~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Offline julief

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2011, 07:51:51 pm »
Hey GB, save the shipping - Home depot carries the diablo blades.

Offline GrayBeard

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2011, 08:05:50 pm »
julie...Home Depot doesn't show this blade...similar blade is $5.00 more but I get FREE shipping and here on Monday. With gas at $3.69 I just as soon let UPS deliver it for me. Not in any hurry, just 'gearing up' for my Cutting Season.

Lots to do now that I can get out in the shop!

Working on a deal with the River City Rascals baseball team to display and sell some stuff at the stadium gift shop! May be a busy spring and summer.

~~~GB~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Offline dgman

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2011, 08:35:53 pm »
Hey GB, I know you have received allot of information, But here is my input. I have a 3 hp. Delta unisaw, so a full kerf blade is in order for it. I like a good combination blade for general use which includes Ripping and crosscutting of most woods including all hardwood and Baltic birch. If I am going do allot of ripping, I have a dedicated ripping blade, however if I am only ripping a single board, I wont change over. I also have a plywood blade to use when I am cutting a large panel down to size.
for 95% of my cutting I use a Forrest Woodworker II Full kerf. This blade has 40 carbide tipped teeth. It is expensive but well worth it to me.
Dan In Southern California

Offline GrayBeard

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2011, 10:06:50 pm »
I am sure, Dan, that you do more cutting in a week than I do in a year.

The one selected seems to be a good general purpose blade for my use...IF I start doing a lot more things i will upgrade saw!

~~~GB~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Bill P

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Re: Blades....
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2011, 10:11:23 pm »
Man, I wanted to chime in, but I'm too late it seems.  Diablo, 60 t.

Bill

 

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