Oak Table...Question....

[GrayBeard]

Well the first coat of Poly is on the table top!
Should be finished and assembled by the end of the week.
Taking Pix as I go.

Question: I have decided to make a leaf for the table. The top measure 3/4" thick and 45 !/2" at the center where leaf will fit.
I'm getting quotes on 12" and 16" wide boards.

Any suggestions on where to obtain the slab? I don't have the equipment to plane myself and would rather not attempt a 'glue-up' of that size.

I just emailed Heritage and Thinboards for pricing. Any other vendors that you would recommend?

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[kp91]

GB,

The glue up for the original top, which way does the grain run in relation to the leaf?  That might limit your options if you want it to match.  This may be a project suited for veneering, where you can highlight the fact that the leaf is different from the rest of the table.

I would also check with a local cabinet shop or a local sawmill.  There are a couple near me who can plane over 15" wide.  They might also have a wide drum sander if you do the glue up yourself and need a little help with the final finishing.  For the 5 minutes it's going to take to set up and mill the wood, I doubt they'd charge you too much.

Another option I see on my local craigslist is people asking for the services of people with planers, jointers, etc for one special project.  Who knows?  some guy down the street may have a performax sander just sitting in his garage...

It's an interesting dilema trying to add a leaf after the table top is made, I can't wait to see what you come up with.

Good luck!

[dgman]

Hey GrayBeard, At that width, you certainly would not want to use the standard cathedral grain of the red oak. You will want to use quarter sawn or rift sawn boards.
If you want to make this leaf you are going to have to do a glue up, or use veneer for the top. If you go with veneer, you will have to veneer the bottom of the leaf also to keep things equal.

[KarlB]

It would seem to me for that size of board you would want to veneer a high quality plywood (or just buy oak plywood) or veneer medium density fiber board (MDF).  Both would be more stable than 3/4" x 12 - 16" x 45" red oak hardwood.  You would probably have to buy 4/4 or 6/4 wood to get that top plus the milling and glue-up time by someone.

Karl

[GrayBeard]

Now you know why i asked the question...

Let's face it folks...until I got into scrolling and this forum my woodworking was concentrated in the area of very basic carpentry, not finish woodworking!

The table glue up grain runs across the table the same direction the leaf would sit...across the 45" way. It will rest virtually on top of the 'open/close' slider mechanism so no room underneath for any kind of 'cross brace'.
The leaf would be used 'minimally' and virtually always be covered with a tablecloth.
Now I am thinking more on the line of Birch plywood just stained and varnished to approximate a match and let it go at that!

~~~GB~~~

[boxmaker]

Greybeard your probably already aware of this, but if your current top is actual 3/4" and you use 3/4" plywood the plywood will be a little thinner, I myself would go with the plywood though, stability will not be an issue then. If it will be covered with a table cloth where the leaf drops down because of thickness difference it will probably not be noticed. Let us know how you make out.

                                              Mark

[GrayBeard]

I don't think it would be a problem with the p'wood since I CAN ADD A 'SHIM' to the underside and bring it up to the surface of the top.
This method would sure save a lot of time, work and probably money.

~~~GB~~~