Oak Dining Table...just inherited! - Finish Questions...

[GrayBeard]

45" round hand made oak table that I am inheriting is in wonderful shape.

The top needs a good 're-finish' to remove some small nicks and a couple surface blemishes.

I am not looking to make it 'perfect' but I want to put a GOOD finish on the top so it can be used every day.

My first inclination is to scrub the top with alcohol to remove any residual 'oils' and then sand it carefully.

I will appreciate any information from you all who may have done this kind of project before as to what steps to take and in what order.

Also asking for recommendations as to the final finishing.

Best guess is that the table was made by a woodworker near Springfield, MO about 70 years ago.

All work will have to be performed in my garage in the St. Louis area with all the resultant 'humidity' problems so bear that in mind.

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[dgman]

The first question I have for you GB is the top solid wood or does it have a veneer?

[GrayBeard]

OOOOPS!

Forgot to mention that the whole thing is SOLID Missouri Oak!

What I don't know and can't find out is what he used to finish it.

~~~GB~~~

[dgman]

I think I would go with a chemical stripper first, then sand it down.

[Kepy]

If you want to maintain it's antique value, avoid refinishing.  It could be cleaned with mineral spirits and a fine steel wool.  It was probably finished with lacquer.

[dunk]

If it was made 70 years ago, I'd think it was finished with shellac.  However the Chinese have been using lacquers for thousands of years so it could be a lacquer.

[jimbo]

If you are going to use it for every day use and not restoring it for show I would sand it with a random orbital sander then polyurethane it [the top that is] and just clean up the legs, I would not try stripping as stripper tends to have a bleaching effect at times and you may end up with a table top that is lighter in color than the legs
Jimbo

[Russ C]

I agree. If you use a chemical stripper you need to strip the whole thing. If you just want to restore the top, sandind should do the job. 

[BilltheDiver]

GB, I have "restored" a number of pieces over the years without sanding and ruining the patina.  It doesn't always work, but I pour lacquer thinner in a small metal tray and dip #0000 steel wool into it and rub it over & over the finish.  Lacquer thinner will dissolve most film finishes without totally removing them.  You can still spot sand any really rough spots and then blend them in by using the lacquer thinner and steel wool method and feathering in the old finish.  When you get the results you are looking for, consider a couple of coats of polyurethane as a top coat and to prevent future damage from water and/or alcohol.  Try it on the underside of the table top to see if it gives you what you want without making it look "new".

[GrayBeard]

Bill...I have one major problem.

Someone at some time must have set a VERY HOT round container on the table and there is a perfect circle that on magnified examination is not an alcohol 'ring' but actually a BURN. I am thinking it may have been a lantern or something of that nature to have literally burned a ring into the surface.

I agree that I would not like to take it down to bare wood if possible but I know of no other way to get past that burn without sanding.

The top is a 'glued up' piece of natural oak that is 7/8" thick.

The rest of the table will only require your method but I am afraid the top surface is going to have to be sanded.

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[jimbo]

GB try daubing  diluted peroxide [with water] on the burn area, increase strength of bleach until burn mark has gone
Jimbo 

[GrayBeard]

As a Furniture Refinisher I make a good Scroll Sawyer!

I opted to SAND the top in order to remove and blend in the many dings, dents, scratches and remove the burn ring and another ring of dubious nature. It is not HARD work but boring as holy hell!
Started with 120 grit open coat and am now down to 180. By end of day tomorrow it should be ready for the first coat of MinWax Golden Oak stain.
Tried it on the under side and it should match perfectly.

Will then move the top into the basement where it is air-conditioned and will maintain more consistent humidity for the Poly coats.
While the Poly is drying i will scrub down the base with the lacquer thinner and steel wool to remove the 90 years of grime. once the base is wiped down I will likely just put a couple coats of Paste Wax on the base and go with that.

~~~GTrayBeard~~~

[Becky]

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.  I hope it doesn't stink you out of your basement in the meantime.