saw speed

[dunk]

I'm a speed by feel cutter too.  I really have never had ol yeller above 6 I don't think.  It just makes the blade too hot and brittle.  I also do mostly fretwork or puzzles and sharp turns don't like high speed.  Not for me any way.

Janet glad you found the speed control. 

[Russ C]

I have tried to slow it down but it takes some getting use to. I am so use to running at full speed. 

[tinker1]

I found this chart useful when i first started cutting

Blade Size-Speed Chart:                                              

# 2/0     800-1100 Speed
         This blade is good for very fine detail in corners and tight curves        because smaller blades will turn tighter radius cuts. Faster than 1200 will usually shorten blade life from the heat buildup causin premature breakage. Will have some fine tear out on the bottom of the work piece.
         1/8" Baltic Plywood and hardwoods
         1/4" Baltic Plywood and hardwoods
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# 2/0R     800-1200
         This blade is used the same as the 2/0 but will eliminate the bottom tear out. When cutting less than 1/4" thick material, check that the reverse teeth are not cutting through the top of piece , leaving tear out on the top instead of the bottom. The bottom of the blade can be trimmed off to lower blade in the clamps to fix this problem, just don't lower it to where the reverse teeth do not contact the wood.
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 # 2           800-1200 Speed
         This blade will not cut as tight of radius as the 2/0, so not as much fine detail can be done with this blade. It has a longer blade life than the 2/0.
         3/8" Baltic Plywood             3/8" Hardwoods
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 #2R     800-1200 Speed
         Will do the same as the 2, but with the reverse teeth the bottom tear out is eliminated.
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 #5R        1000-1850 Speed
         This is my favorite blade. Because of the reverse tooth there is not any bottom tear out. It will cut fast and leaves a good smooth surface ready to paint. Over 1850 speed the heat build up reduces blade life considerably.
         1/8" (6 layers stacked) Baltic Plywood
         1/4" ( 3 layers stacked) Baltic Plywood
         3/4" (2 layers 1/2") (3 layers 1/4") Pine
         1/4" to 3/4" Hardwoods ( Test cut all hardwoods because some, due to density, will leave a burn mark on the cut edge, due to the reverse tooth design of the blade)
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#5           1000-1850 Speed
        When the cut edge is burned, switch to this blade to eliminate the burning. There will be bottom tear out with this blade that will need to be sanded after cutting. Will cut faster than the reverse tooth blades , so on some of the 3/4" pine it may be better to cut simple designs with this blade for speed ( sanding on a stationary belt sander  after cutting).
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 #9R     1200-2000 Speed
         Good for cutting thicker materials. Does not have the tight turning radius of the smaller size blades.
         1 1/2" Pine
         Thicker hardwoods
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 #9      1200-2000 Speed
         Use when edge burning occurs as described for the #5 blades.
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  # 12R       1400-2000 Speed
         A good cutoff blade. Will cut about as fast as the bandsaw. Good for cutting off lumber and plywood's to the desired shapes and sizes. Can cut some of the 1 1/2 pine but the edges will not be as smooth as when using the smaller blades.
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This chart is given as a good starting reference point. You may want to try some of the other brands and types of blades available but this should get you started in the area of what each blade is used for.

[Marcellarius]

thanks for sharing.

..... my saw starts at 400.... don't see that in the list

[jimbo]

I did not know that saws got up to 2000spm, and I have as yet not seen one that has  a speed indicator, and at that speed I would think it would be uncontrollable let alone the burning from the blade, what do you all think?
Jimbo

[Marcellarius]

I think you're right Jimbo, 2000 looks quit fast.
my Hegner goes about 1400 rpm and I don't use that speed very often.

[Russ C]

My saw speed runs from 400-1550 SPM. Cannot imagine 2000 SPM. Wow. Nice find there tinker1. It will give the newbies a good reference. I use exclusively Flying Dutchman Blades.  

[tinker1]

My saw is a delta q3, it has a speed indicator dial and can be adjusted to run from 300spm-2000spm.
I usually run it on average between 700-900spm for most projects i do.
speed depends on how intricate the pattern is and what type of wood (material) im cutting so not to burn it.

I've also cut copper,plastic, aluminum, and brass with it using jeweler's blades
I also use a foot control (power on-off)

I believe the speeds listed in the chart are to show at what the blades can be ran at (top speed).
(Basically find the speed your most comfortable with for your project.)

My first saw was a sears single speed,(didn't take long for me to figure out its limitations when it came to intricate pattern cutting)

[Paw Paw Ray]

I always slow the saw down per feel and type of material.  If you cut acrylic at a high speed it will just melt the blade thru the plastic and refuse on the back sid of the blade.  Also less vibration at slower speeds so you feel more refreshe when you have been cutting a long time.

[jimbo]

A SPM speed indicator would be great as you could adjust back to the speed most comfortable for the wood being cut, was this a separate attachment or did come with the saw?, some vari. speed lathes have an indicator
Jimbo

[tinker1]

A SPM speed indicator would be great as you could adjust back to the speed most comfortable for the wood being cut, was this a separate attachment or did come with the saw?, some vari. speed lathes have an indicator
Jimbo

My saw came with variable speed dial, here is a add-on speed dial.
I've never used a add-on myself, maybe someone else will have some more information on them.

*(They state that you'll need to make sure its compatible with your motor)

http://cgi.ebay.com/SCROLL-SAW-MOTOR-VARIABLE-SPEED-CONTROL-TOOL-NEW-/180495999768?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a06666318

[Barry]

I have a Dewalt and I have never cut at full speed.  I only turned it that high to check for vibration, I was curious how it would do at that speed, and it did well.  For a beginner I always recommend they start slow to get their control down.  You can speed up as you progress and get the "feel" of your machine.  So many woods will burn if you cut them at a high speed, particularly cherry and oak.   
 I also adjust as I am cutting.  On a straight part I will speed up the machine and slow down around fretwork.

Barry

[Dawie]

I am with the group that feel for the right speed. I also agree with Sheila, it's the fun that counts and not how fast you cut something, coming to think of it I hardly go above medium speed. Nice thread with some intresting reading.
David

[Marcellarius]

be carefull when using add-on speed control.
some use the same technique as light dimmer and don't use electronic "phase shift"  which is absolute necessary having an induction motor on your saw.


speed control on induction motors is expencive and can give problems.
that's why Proxon whent from variable speed control to a 2 speed.

if you have the wrong add-on speed control you destroy your motor!

[Dawie]

Nice to know Marcel, I have the proxxon with viarable speed control, it has been going for 2 years now. The activity centre I go to has 2 new proxxons, now I know why it only has 2 speed settings, fast and very fast. Am saving for a hegner(might have one in about 100 years time )
David