Portraits Question(s)

[Becky]

So, I thought I'd try something new and different.  I was going through Steve's catalog for ideas and I came across his beginner's portrait pattern of a zebra.  I must be making progress as it doesnt' intimidate me nearly as much as it used to!

Anyway, looking at it and thinking I'll give it a try led me to realize I have several questions about the how-to's of portraits.  I did a search but either didn't do a thorough one or this topic has not been addressed in much depth here.

First of all, I will be using a bought frame as I don't have the equipment or know-how needed to make frames.  With that in mind, should I use 1/4" BB plywood or 1/8"?  I have both on hand but thought 1/8" might fit more easily in a store-bought frame. (note the assumption that the piece will be worth framing!  LOL)

Second, what do you use for backers?  Another piece of wood painted or something else?

Third (and last for now), how do you finish the BB?

Thanks in advance for you wisdom and sage counsel!   

[dgman]

Hey Becky, Good for you on trying a portrait!
I think portraits look better in 1/8", but 1/8" is hard to control when cutting on the scroll saw. I stack two or three layers of 1/8" Baltic birch, or sometimes 1/8" oak plywood. The stacked layer will give you better cutting control, and you will have two or three projects cut at the same time!
As for a backer board, I prefer a wood backer. I like to use luan plywood and Oak plywood. I stain the plywood with a darker stain like cherry or mahogany. Most others use black felt or black paint on plywood.
As for a finish on Baltic birch, I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. This brings out the grain of the wood. Then a top coat of Deft semi gloss spray lacquer.

[ChaplainRon]

Haven't done but two so far, but I found when using a store bought frame using 1/8 BB and a black felt backing fits well. I like the Lemon oil finish better than staining since I could dip my project in the oil and had a difficult time getting stain in all the cuts to look even.

[daneklund]

I had purchased a bunch of frames from Walmart, Kmart, and Target when I first started cutting portraits.  Some of the frames do not have much room for anything other than 1/8".  Sometimes even the felt would really make the back of the frame hard to close.  I had some other frames that the inside of their backing was already black and that worked fine without any additional backer.  All of those frames had glass in them.  I changed a couple to use the 1/8" plexiglas and it really made the piece much lighter and gave a little more room for the cut portrait and backer.  Good luck.

[Becky]

Thanks for your quick replies.  Dgman, I'm on vacation this week so it seems like a good time to try something new.  I won't resent the time so much if I totally botch it.  I've spent the first part of the week finishing up some other projects.

I'll try it with 1/8".  I just bought some of that today so there's no shortage of material.

ChaplainRon, do you glue the felt to another piece of wood or directly to the cut piece?  I want to make sure I understand what you were saying.  

I might try it both ways (or maybe multiple ways if there are more responses tomorrow) to get an idea of what I like best.

Either way, this information is enough to get me started.  Thanks!

Oh, and there is a late-breaking post from EclipseScroller!  Definitely 1/8" for me!  When I go out to buy frames, I will look for one with black backing material. That's something I probably wouldn't have *ever* thought of.  Thanks!

Where do you get the plexiglass?  I had figured on a frame with glass just because it would be a dusting nightmare without it.  I can see where plexiglass might be an advantage.

[GrayBeard]

A. Plexiglass or Acrylic will SCRATCH even with the lightest of 'dusting'.

B. I use spray adhesive on the back side of the cutting and use colored 'scrapbook' papers from Michaels. Makes for easy choice of color without the 'bulk' of felt or flannel.

C. Go to your friendly Office Depot, Kinko's or a local print shop and ask to buy some "Chip Board" like the backing on legal pads. Use that on the back side after placing the cutting in the frame.

D. Go to your friendly hardware store and get some 'Glazier's Points' to attach the backing to the frame.

I ALWAYS use very small screw eyes and picture hanging wire on any item I intend to hang.

That's MY Method and I am Staying With It!!!

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[Becky]

A.  Really?  Wow, I had no idea.

B.  How do you finish your work first?  I did that with the "One that got away" pattern and ended up with oil stains on the paper.  How long do you have to lt the piece sit and dry until that is no longer a problem?  Because it sure sounds like and easy way to back it.

C.  I always save the cardboard from the backs of my legal pads at home and at work.  They come in handy in all sorts of ways.  I have plenty of that.

D.  OK, what's a glaizer's point?  And how do you use them for this purpose?  I know glazier has to do with glass but that's as far as I can take it.

[GrayBeard]

This link will give you the basics....<http://www.ehow.com/how_4716983_points-put-together-framed-print.html>

With most frames you can just PUSH the 'points' in with the flat blade of a screwdriver or rigid putty knife. A lot of the cheaper frames from places like the Dollar Store and Wal~Mart are plastic and not wood!

I finish most of mine with Natural Danish oil brushed on, two coats and allow to dry a couple of days. The front side gets a coat or two of semi-gloss spray lacquer. I do spray a single coat on the back side just to make sure the 'oil' surface is sealed and doesn't bleed on the backing paper (actually very light weight card stock).
I spread the Danish oil on with 1" or 2" "Pastry Brushes" that I get in bulk from a kitchen supply store! Some are used for cooking and the others for applying 'oil' finishes.
Carefully cleaned and washed between uses.

NO glass in the frames.

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[ChaplainRon]

Paper vs Felt Backing

I tried construction paper and scrapbook paper for a backing. When I looked at it I did not like the glare from the paper. the felt seams to absorb the light rather than reflect it and gave a deeper look. I felt the same way about a hard wood backing even though perhaps wood would be more pure to the wood art project.

I guess it is all about taste and artistic expression. Glad to know there are so many ways to do it.

[julief]

Becky,  I use danish oil.  It dries pretty fast and I haven't had a problem with it bleeding into my backer.  Spray urethane seals it in.  I use wood as a backer but I make my frames to fit.

[Russ C]

I have used Lemon Oil, Spray Stain of different shades, left them natural and use oil paints. I always finish with first coat of spray lacquer followed by three of four coats of Kylon clear acrylic spray. Sometimes I put no backer. Have used felt, holographic paper, and wood as backer. I make my own frames. When I am not going to use a backer I cut the slot in the frame more to the front to give the piece depth.

[Becky]

What an exercise in turning corners!  That zebra sure has a lot of zig-zags. 

I have some fuzzies to deal with but, overall, I think the cutting went pretty well and I learned a lot.  You really have to plan ahead so you don't end up with too much unsupported wood.  I did have some chancy moments but I didn't break anything off which strikes me as a minor miracle.  There's one spot that has me pretty worried about getting the fuzzies off.

But, I can see where it is sort of addicting.  After I finished that, I cut the one with the plants and a couple of fish (also from Steve's catalog).  Now I have twice as many fuzzies to deal with.  I guess I will work on that tonight.

Give me a few days to get everything done and dried and assembled and, if I haven't destroyed them in the process, I'll post pics.  Thanks again for all your advice!

[Russ C]

Love your candid post Becky. Now you see why we are all here. It is therapy for the addiction. LMAO     

[MadHatter]

i use 1/8 baltic birch and finish my portraits with polyurthane, i also use store bought frames and remove the glass, for the backing i use felt glued to black posterboard, then glue the portrait to the felt, and i use the backer that came with the frame which normally has a wall hanger.

i save the glass from all my frames and when i have a good amount of glass, i visit my local frame shop and trade em for a couple of nice frames.

i have also used frames from the dollar tree store and they were actually nicer than i thought they would be.

[dgman]

Hey Becky, I make my own frames also which allows me to cut the rabbet as deep as I need for the thickness of the work piece and the backer board, which for me is usually 1/4".
I have read some scrollers use a small propane torch to remove the fuzzies, but I have not tried it, but sounds interesting.
Waiting for a picture!