10 things I learned on the scroll saw this past weekend

[Scott]

Well, I got to spend several hours on the Craftsman 16" variable speed saw I have and learned a few things.

1. I had some issues with patterns lifting from the wood. I used the blue painters tape and 3M adhesive method, letting the adhesive soak on the pattern for about 1 minute before applying.

2. The blower is NOT strong enough on that saw. Need to go the aquarium pump route soon.

3. A wake of blueish saw dust piled up behind the blade, and sometimes in front of it. Made it difficult to see where I was going.

4. Need more work on sharp inside corners. Overran the corners on one side quite a few times.

5. Need a good method to remove the "schnibbles" on the back side of the project.

6. The best thing: once you remove pattern no one knows that you deviated from the line. :-)

7. Pins can come out of pin style blades.

8. Pixilated graphics are harder to follow than line drawings.

9. There is a bit of freedom to following the pattern (on the cross I did) and I got more comfortable with every section I did.

10: Gotta get a cushion for that tractor seat!

Comment / suggestions are welcomed.

P.S. 11. I now see the need for a foot switch! 

[Rapid Roger]

Hang in there! Keep cutting! And keep learning. Everyday there is a new experience.
You are now where I was 15 years ago so I know exactly how you feel. Scrolling is a wonderful, relaxing hobby and not terribly expensive......at first. Like any hobby, there is money to be spent if you are so inclined but, it is not a requirement.
Love reading about your learning curve.

Rog

[dirtrider73068]

If you get a fish tank air pump get the bigger unit, the ones for small fish tanks still don't put out enough air. Depends what type of spray adesive you are using, some don't hold that good and will lift off, more so if you get into close cuts to each other. If you look at the can some say removeable some say permanant. I would go with the latter, it should hold better and if have problems removing the pattern use some mineral spirits. I always put down the blue tape then glue pattern to that so it all comes off easier but still had lift off issues. So then I got some of those full sheet shipping labels printed right on it then stuck it to the wood. The are really hard to come off but use a hair dryer on low heat get the label warm it will peel right off. The blueish saw dust is the painters tape being cut and left behind I had that issue as well and just moved it when it piled up in the way. Get some pinless blades they are alot better, can cut more finer adn closer to the lines and make corners tighter then pinned blades.

[scrappile]

What he said, and the best thing I have found for me to remove the "fuzzies" is a sanding mop first and then a little wire brush on my Dremel tool to get the ones the mop can't.

[KarlB]

I've been using blue tape and 3m spray glue for quite a while.

A couple of tips:  apply the blue tape to your wood first.
                            cut off the tape that goes past the edge.  (if you wrap it to the back you add a thickness (or 2) between the wood and table.
                            cut the pattern out of the paper with scissors.
                            spray the back of the pattern completely.
                            let if sit until it becomes tacky.  (If you wait too long it will not bond properly and may lift up when cutting.)
                            the blue dust will go away when you update your blower (or get a vacuum system).

Sounds like you are learning quite a lot.  Keep up the practice!

Karl

[DWSudekum]

Well, I got to spend several hours on the Craftsman 16" variable speed saw I have and learned a few things.

1. I had some issues with patterns lifting from the wood. I used the blue painters tape and 3M adhesive method, letting the adhesive soak on the pattern for about 1 minute before applying. 
( Ensure that your wood is dust free and that you do not wait too long to apply the pattern to it after applying the 3M )

2. The blower is NOT strong enough on that saw. Need to go the aquarium pump route soon.
( An aquarium pump will work just need to ensure that it will pump enough air )

3. A wake of blueish saw dust piled up behind the blade, and sometimes in front of it. Made it difficult to see where I was going.
( When using the blue tape that sometimes happens better air flow will help )

4. Need more work on sharp inside corners. Overran the corners on one side quite a few times.
( Sometimes looking ahead at what you need to cut if you can drill a hole right at the sharp turn then when your cut gets to there the sharp turn will be easier to do.)

5. Need a good method to remove the "schnibbles" on the back side of the project.
( Using a reverse tooth blade will reduce the amount of "schnibbles ")

6. The best thing: once you remove pattern no one knows that you deviated from the line. :-)

7. Pins can come out of pin style blades.
( This is how I started, pinless are generally smaller so can use smaller entry holes )

8. Pixilated graphics are harder to follow than line drawings.
( using more lighting will be better for seeing a fainter pattern )

9. There is a bit of freedom to following the pattern (on the cross I did) and I got more comfortable with every section I did.
( There is freedom as the pattern is just a guide to work from.  The more practice you have cutting the closer to the actual pattern lines you will be )

10: Gotta get a cushion for that tractor seat!
( Comfort is a must.  If you are comfortable you will be cutting better )

Comment / suggestions are welcomed.

P.S. 11. I now see the need for a foot switch! 
( A foot switch is a definate must for most folks )

DW

[spirithorse]

Glad you are learning and enjoying the experience.
Lots of good suggestions here and I would add using a small
propane torch to burn off the fuzzies from the back of the cut.
Just a few light passes should get them all.
God Bless! Spirithorse

[Scott]

Thanks to all for the comments / suggestions. I will try some of those. Appreciate too all of the encouragement!

[sawdust703]

Well, now that your head is full of knowledge, concentrate on the things you ain't so good at. Try different sizes of blades w/those issues. You'll soon figure out the best way to make them work for you at different speeds. Learn to use the back of the blade as a stop & turn brake, if you will. Your tighter turns will be easier to make, & smoother looking. When you come to a turn, run the turn to the end of the cut & back up a little then make your square turn.

Removing patterns is a matter of preference. I use naphtha to remove patterns. It dissolves the glue faster, & makes it easier to remove from breakable parts. I use a sponge brush & soak the pattern & painters tape a couple times, let it set about 30 minutes, then peel off the pattern.

If you're getting blue behind the blade, you're not running your blade speed fast enough, & not getting air to the work area. As mentioned, if you go with the aquarium pump, get the biggest you can to move air. jmo.

[Scott]

I tried a couple of different blades. I ended up using the Olson Mach Speed blade I bought a couple of weeks ago. It seemed to cut the best. I noticed though that cutting through the Basswood golf ball cage was very slow with the first blade I started with. I tried a #7 skip tooth blade, but it took forever and seemed like I was really having to push on it to cut. Not sure what was going on there.

Getting the tension good and playing with the speed and the feed rate was the most challenging.

Also, cutting spruce was not fun. (The deer logo) There were moments where the blade would give, and all of the sudden it was like I was cutting thru butter. Then I would turn the corner, and slow down again. I suspect that was the difference between going with the grain as opposed to doing a cross cut.

Next projects call for some 1/8 or 1/4 plywood. We'll see how that goes. I'll try the FD blades then.

[nrscroller]

HI
spend the money for a new airbrush compressor or find a used one. I have that on my hegner and it blows all the dust away. I have the flex arm to move around and direct it on my wood
nrscroller

[Wooden Lace]

If you think spruce is a challenge, try cutting some quarter-sawn white oak or some zebrawood!  I find it helps to take "stress breaks" when doing something that's really taxing.

I'm not surprised that you liked the Olson Mach blades....they're my favorite, but sure wish they made smaller than a #3, 'cause then I have to switch to a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #1.  As you will learn, each type of blade cuts differently, and you have to adjust your cutting.  Also, I don't like the fuzzies that the Flying Dutchman leaves, but I do think they stay sharp longer.

You'll learn which blade works best with each situation.  It depends on the hardness and thickness of the wood as much as how intricate your pattern is.  I like to cut with the saw at about 90-95% speed, and you'll find your favorite too. 

Have fun and enjoy your new hobby!
Nancy