Author Topic: Do know what to call it  (Read 3260 times)

Offline hayu

  • *
  • Newbie
  • Posts: 39
    • View Profile
Do know what to call it
« on: January 16, 2017, 07:37:44 pm »
I have a Dewalt. This has probably been talked about a great deal. What problem I am having is that when I cut something out the top can be right on the line. The bottom is another story, the stuff cut out is a lot smaller. It gets worse the thicker the board is. Whats this called so I can go look this problem up. Thanks.

Offline Dennis123

  • **
  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 73
    • View Profile
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2017, 08:51:55 pm »
Not sure what it's called but, it sounds like you need to make sure your blade is square to the table, tensioned properly and then be sure you don't push your work piece sideways to stay on the line.

Dennis

Offline spirithorse

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 925
    • View Profile
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2017, 01:07:50 am »
I agree with Dennis.
Therefore, I would probably call it a bevel cut.
Be sure that the table is not tilted with repect to the blade.
Even if the number guide says the table is square, it may not
be accurate.
God Bless! Spirthorse

Offline DWSudekum

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 3677
    • View Profile
    • The DW Collection
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2017, 10:14:37 am »
There is a tune up procedure for that.  Go to
http://www.scrollsaws.com/and onl the left side of the page you will see dewalt tune up.  it is in there that you will find your answer.


DW
Life is tough, it is even tougher if you are stupid  -  John Wayne

Offline Rapid Roger

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 1468
  • Hutchinson, Kansas
    • View Profile
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2017, 11:48:28 am »
I do that intentionally when I make inlays. :)
Loosen the table tilt knob, use a credit card as a square to make sure the blade and table are 90 degrees and re-tighten the knob securely. Either forget about the degree gauge or adjust it buy re-setting the little pointer.
You also want to check the blade and table from the back and front side of the blade. You can adjust that with shims under the table hold down bolts or by filing an elongated hole in the back table support. This is seldom necessary however..... You never know, and that knowledge may help on down the way. 
Now the make sure the blade is 90 degrees buy using a thicker piece of wood (1-1/2" or so thick) and cut a straight line into it about 1" or so. Now back the blade out of the cut, turn the wood around and put on the back side of the blade and see if the blade will slide back into the cut from the other side. If it works, Bob is your uncle and if not, START OVER again, you goofed. LOL
HTH.
An ounce of responsablity is worth 10 pounds of state and fedral laws.

Offline Jim Finn

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 507
    • View Profile
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2017, 06:14:06 pm »
To cut thicker woods well, the feed rate you use should be quite slow.  If not you can get a crooked or bowed cut with most any scroll saw..
20"Hegner Polymax-3 (2008)
25"Hegner Multimax-3 (1986)

No PHD, just a  DD 214

Offline dirtrider73068

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 814
    • View Profile
Re: Do know what to call it
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2017, 11:09:42 pm »
Sounds like your blade is not 90 degrees to the table gving those slight bevel cuts. One way to test it is take a peice of scrap tall enough to clear the balde clamp as its running make a slight cut into the side of it about the width of the blade then place it behind the blade saw off with the cut facing you, if the blade is 90 to the blade is 90 to the table the back of the blade should slip into the cut if not the blade is not 90 degrees to the table.

 

SMF

Teknoromi