Soft wood scrolling

[Tocaone]

Hi All, I need your help.  I am trying to cut a dragon pattern from thermally modified poplar.  I have cut multiple compound cutting projects with this wood and it is awesome for that and the color is unbelievably gorgeous.  When I planed the wood down to 1/8" to cut the dragon I found it's very, very soft.  I really want to use this wood, can anyone give me hints on cutting soft woods or know of a way I can harden it?

[RangerJay]

You don't say what the actual issue is but I'm wondering if sandwiching it between pieces of a harder wood or plywood for cutting might help.


Jay

[DWSudekum]

That is how I would give it a try.  Sandwich it between two pieces of Baltic Birch and see how it does.

DW

[Tocaone]

Thanks All...I guess I didn't say what my problem was, sorry about that.  The issue is how easily it breaks, the pattern is fairly detailed and some of the cut areas are really narrow, so there's not much wood left and even a tiny catch or sharp turn and it breaks.  I did get it cut today, made sure that I left all the cutouts in place and taped each section to hold it secure as I went.  Took if off the scroll saw without ONE break.  Removing the tape caused a break that was easily repairable so I was satisfied.  I wish I had thought about sandwiching the wood and will definitely try that if I ever scroll this wood again.  You guys, as always, are great.  Thanks again.

[jscott2]

Tocaone, what is thermally modified wood?

Thanks,
Jim

[Tocaone]

Hi J, I had to do a google search to give you a totally correct answer:
    Thermally Modified Poplar
        General Characteristics: Thermally Modified Poplar is produced by the thermo-treatment process. When complete, the process carmelizes the sugars in the wood which gives the ash a dark brown appearance all the way through the wood. The process also allows the poplar to become more water resistant and decay resistant. 
    We get this wood at a mill called The Hardwood Store in Gibsonville, NC.  I haven't seen it anywhere else and my brother who lives in Maine says he hasn't been able to find it, although I have to believe that it could be found online.  http://www.baileywp.com/html/tm_poplar.html.  Hopefully you can copy and paste this link to see what it looks like.

Tocaone (Cathy)

[dunk]

Are you aware you can bake your own wood at home in the oven.
As I recall it is 350? for about 20 minutes  I start checking my wood at about 15 mins and check often after that.  Once it begins to darken it will turn fast.  Don't leave it too long as it may become brittle.

[jscott2]

Interesting, thanks. Seems it can be used on many woods and thermally treated can be used as a replacement for some applications where treated wood is now used. 

Jim

[sawdust703]

Several things enter in to this. My first thought would be blade size & speed. With thin material & fretwork, a small blade & easy speed will stop breakage. The thing most people forget when it comes to cutting to soft material, is patience. Use a polar blade instead of a skip tooth blade. The polar blade won't catch like the skip will. Keep your deck waxed.

[Tocaone]

Thanks Sawdust.  I got the piece cut yesterday, definitely running on slow speed and using a #1 Flying Dutchman RS.  I left my cutouts in place, taping them to the non-cut areas as I went.  This wood is not only soft, if it breaks in the more narrow cuts, the wood in some cases crumbles.  Don't think this is anywhere near the best wood for fretwork.  Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate the help I get when I pose a question on this forum.

[WynnD]

How about coating it with lacquer or shellac before cutting. Or before you take the tape off brush it on the back with thinned white glue or the transparent Titebond.   

[Dan26]

Rockler sells some stuff called Wood Juice Wood Stabilizer. I'm not sure but I think it will provide more durability while cutting soft wood. I think a lacquer-based wood sealer would do the same.

[Dakota Saw Dust]

Cathy - I have found not trying to make tight turns or even cutting a corner from to direction helps eliminate breakage . A sacrifice sheet on the bottom helps as does a zero clearance hole for the blade - like a playing card taped to the table top. Now you have more ideas for the nest project. Cheers. Brian

[dirtrider73068]

Lots of good ideas putting it sandwhich would thick would help, taping is alot of what some will do to help support delicate pieces or cutting those delicate pieces last to let the outer wood hold them in place. May also go with a thinner blade like a what is next after one a 1/0 or is it 3/0 its like hair thin maybe that would help with the stress of turning a corner.

One thing I do with delicate turns like this is instead of going into the corner and makeing the sharp turn, is I cut into the corner back out and in the waste nimble away to make a space about the width of the blade, turn saw off put blade in corner start saw and keeping cutting, this way I found I get sharp crisp corners and for me is easier to make a corner then the cut to corner then is a swift fast motion make the turn, I always slip and get a blade kerf nip in the corner than I have to sand out or use the blade to sand it out.

Also the hole on the saw pending what brand make a zero clearence insert or use a piece of tape and poke a blade though it to make a zero clearence insert to help support the delicate cuts. On ym old craftsman saw I got a thin 1/16th or 1/8 th inch plywood, traced out the table and used double sided tape or carpet tape made  hole in line with the blade to make a zero clearence top.

[Jim Finn]

Windy has mentioned the way I would approach this issue.  I have had similar issues trying to do fine line carving in Mahogany.  I applied a thick layer of lacquer, brush on, and after it was dry I got less splintering as I carved it.