A matter of practicality?

[mamell]

I'm wondering if anyone has tried to make a platform to raise the saws flat surface enough to make use of the rest of the blade after the blade becomes dull from use..
I'm not sure how to word this to make sense,  but it seems to me that only small section of the blade is used, perhaps an inch or so even though the blade still has another few inches of unused teeth. I had made a low tolerance surface with 8th inch plywood, but the thought of making it adjustable up and down to make use of the parts of the blade that typically isn't used would be useful.  Has anyone tried this and had success with it?
Maybe I'm just being cheap, but as far as I know scroll saw blades don't grow on trees.
Ant thoughts on this? 
Thanks..

[dunk]

several people have placed a piece of plywood on top of the existing table top to raise the work surface.  They report success.  My understanding is they have used double sided tape to keep it in place.  Good luck.

[Hawkdave]

I use this method on my Bobbin Sander. The extra height table (35mm thick) was made just a bit bigger than the sander table, then I put beads underneath to locate the new table each time. This also works to stop the table from moving when it is in use.

Dave.

[Rapid Roger]

If you use a "Crown Tooth" blade, you can turn it up side down and get a bit more use out of it. But of course a crown tooth blade isn't necessarily good for some types of cutting.
I like the idea of using the plywood(or any thicker wood) on top of the table to gain some space. However, it may make it a bit more difficult to change the blade and depending on the thickness of the wood you are cutting, the top arm could hit your project.
I realize that blades don't grow on trees but, there is some ongoing expense to any hobby and I consider scroll saw blades to be a lot cheaper than most things. Don't take up golf for gosh sakes! Golf balls can add up to serious money over the summer!

Rog

[mamell]

Good point there Roger.. I'm not going to stop going to the bathroom just because toilet paper goes up in price..
Kind of strange that yesterday as I was cutting through 1/2 inch oak it seemed to go faster as I went along. I'm fairly certain that the blade wasn't sharpening itself and I probably wasn't bending time on my own. Maybe I'm just bent which is something I won't expect much argument about..
Anyway, I got it done and it looks great .
I think one of my upcoming projects will be a movable stand for the scroll saw. Currently I have it mounted on the bench which is a bit too high to sit on the stool and just a bit too low to stand there on my feet all day. That way I can also plan for a place to keep blades and other scroll saw items separate and organized.  Did I say that I was going to get organized? If that actually occurs you can expect it to snow all day come August.. ;-)

[MOONIE]

Some time ago I cut round hold in two 3/8" pieces of clear plastic to raise the table to use more of the blade.  Stuck the two together with double sided tape.  Then attached it to the table with double sided tape.  Worked just fine but it's difficult to remove from the table.  I don't use it anymore because it to much trouble.  The blade cost is negligible compared to the cost of good hard wood. 

[Hawkdave]

Some time ago I cut round hold in two 3/8" pieces of clear plastic to raise the table to use more of the blade.  Stuck the two together with double sided tape.  Then attached it to the table with double sided tape.  Worked just fine but it's difficult to remove from the table.  I don't use it anymore because it to much trouble.  The blade cost is negligible compared to the cost of good hard wood.

To eliminate the use of double sided tape, you can use a similar method I used for my bobbin sander (see earlier post)
Place a sheet of MDF or ply on top of your table and leave about 1" hanging over all the way around. Draw around the shape of the table and cut out the shape that is the actual table. Then using a gauge or your finger, draw a pencil line 1" all the way around. When you cut this out you should now have your locating ring. Glue this ring onto another piece of MDF or Ply (use what ever thickness you require) and then cut out the table to the shape of the ring. You can decide whether you just use a centre hole or if you cut a slot through the table to allow easier placement without taking your blades off.

Dave.

[Jim Finn]

This is what I have tried with success:  Remove the dulled blade, cut off bottom 1/2"-3/4" of the blade with tin snips.  Re install, and you will be using fresh saw teeth.  My Saws will adjust to the shorter blade but I do not know if all saws will.  (I have Hegner saws)

[Bill Wilson]

We woodworkers are a notably frugal lot.  I tend to use sandpaper way past it's optimum life span and I can tell a blade is dull when I start to smell smoke.       One thing about raising the surface of the table is that if you are using reverse tooth blades, you will be negating their benefit, as the bottom teeth may no longer do their job. 

How many partially used blades do you have scattered about your work area?  I have a tendency to save blades that still have some life, but aren't good enough to put back in the tube with the new ones.  If I've only cut a short while with it, but need to change it for a different type or size, I set it aside and usually forget about it.  Then I notice I've got a fair size collection of slightly used blades of all different types and sizes.  Then I spend more time and energy trying to figure out what size they are and get them used up.  Bottom line is, blades are a consumable and relatively cheap, especially of purchased in bulk.  I should probably change my blades more often/more quickly and not worry so much about trying to maximize their usability.   

[Jim-78028]

If you use the FD Ultimate Reverse you can just turn it upside down to extend its life somewhat.  The FD-UR is two teeth down, one up, two down, one up, etc etc

[mamell]

I guess they are inexpensive enough to buy often.  The problem I have or at least had was I found a particular blade I liked a lot and it cuts most anything I cut, but I have a lousy memory and don't remember which blades to reorder. Organization was never my strong suit, but I'm getting better at it.. Initially I just tossed them all together in one jar and as you probably know they really do look alike when you have 30-40 blades all jumbled together.
Well, I've used up the blades I like the most, but darned if I know which blades they are to identify when I want to reorder... So.... I guess I'll order a sample pack,  keep them all separate and go from there. Then what to do with all of the blades I seldom if ever use.
I'm just guessing they're skip tooth,  maybe number 2, I could be wrong..
I had to fiddle with and readjust my saw many times and now it cuts straight every time just about and I no longer use it as a work bench and try to keep it nice and clean.  My hands still shake so threading a blade into a tiny hole isn't fun,but I've developed much more patience than when I first started out.
Now I really want to take it to the next level and incorporate some of the woodworking techniques I've learned over time to do some better work than just cutting basic shapes.
Thanks for your input and I'll at least try to remember the things I learn from you nice folks..
Now if I can gain the patience to wait for my hand to heal up after jabbing the chisel into it.. That was fun..

[jerry1939]

I store my  blades in empty water bottles.  Remove the label, print the blade type & size on the printer.  Scotch tape it to the bottle.  When I take out a new blade, turn that bottle up-side-down to remind me what I'm using.  Put a rubber band around the top & bottom and put your "slightly used" blade on the outside of the bottle.  Store the bottles in a shop built "spice rack" that allows your printed labels to show.

jjerry

[dirtrider73068]

Depending on what saw you have the ex could use thin wood like 1/8 or thinner cut to size of table and use the table mount screws to hold the table and the wood top down, but still a pain to remove the screws to remove the wood back and forth to save and use a 1/8th of the blade to cut longer, its just easier and faster to change baldes and buy more when you need them.

[Dennis123]

The question of storing and identifying blades seems to come up pretty often.  I store my blades in the plastic tubes that are available in several places.  When ordering blades I simply take the label that usually comes in the plastic bag that the blades are delivered in, roll it up (like around a pencil) and then insert it in the tube before putting the blades into the tube. That way its pretty easy to quidkly find the type/size blade I need.

[termite]

i bought pill bottles from our local drug store. i glued FD label inside bottle. i then put one of those plastic tubes in each bottle. these are for my used blades. i use two different colored saws. i
painted two 1/8 inch dowel rods the color of my saws. they let me know what blade i am using.
i just move the dowels when i change blades. with my bad memory i always know which blade i am using.    termite