Rip Fence for scroll saw?

[BlueH2O]

I am thinking of building a doll house for my niece. I will want to cut thin slices of wood and don't have a table saw. So the idea of using the scroll saw came to mind. I saw Steve explain in a video that it is impossible to cut a straight line with out manipulating the wood due to the bur on the back of the blade. So is there such a thing as a rip fence for a scroll saw or will I need to invest into a table saw or band saw?

[Rapid Roger]

No, you don't have to spend more money on a table saw. And no, there is no such thing as a rip fence for a scroll saw.
What you will have to do is practice, cut slowly, practice, guide the line into the blade, practice, take your time, practice.
You can sand the edges down for a smoother edge by taping a piece of sand paper to a flat surface (bench, table or a piece of glass or Formica or something). But of course you might want to cut the pieces a sliver larger to allow for the sanding loss.

Rog

[DWSudekum]

I am thinking of building a doll house for my niece. I will want to cut thin slices of wood and don't have a table saw. So the idea of using the scroll saw came to mind. I saw Steve explain in a video that it is impossible to cut a straight line with out manipulating the wood due to the bur on the back of the blade. So is there such a thing as a rip fence for a scroll saw or will I need to invest into a table saw or band saw?

You CAN cut thin slices of stock on a scroll saw. Here is what I have used in the past to do this.  I put a spiral blade in the scroll saw and clamped a fence board in place to the desired thickness and cut slow.  It works but not fast.  I have cut 1/8 in thick slices from a 1 3/4 inch thick board doing it this way.  It does take some getting used to though and it does produce a lot of sawdust but hey if you do not have a table saw or a band saw you use what you have, right?

DW

[Dakota Saw Dust]

I believe you can make your own "rip fence" for a scroll saw by using the same approach as used for re-sawing on a band saw. That is accomplished by taking, say a  straight 1x4, and drawing a straight line on the 3 1/2" face, say 1 1/2" in from one side. Then scroll saw that line about halfway through the drawn line. I.E. if you started with an 18" piece you would have cut 9" from one end 1 1/2" from one side of the 3 1/2" board width.
Your should use a large blade ( #7,#9, or #10) this will cut a larger kerf or path way and not bind on either side of the blade. Because of the burr on the one side of the blade, you will have to angle your 18" board in order to cut to the marked line. This skew angle is what a fence should be set at to make repetitive piece. I cut my board that 9" in and stop trying not to change the angle. I then clamp the test piece to my table and then clamp a new board "fence" board next to that one. The problem with this method is coming up with the same skew angle for just the right thickness of your desired pieces. It means devising your method of marking both ends of your fence to result is just the distance you want the fence away from you blade. I wish I had Steve's tech. abilities to do a video on this. A picture is worth a thousand words.    PS Start with a new sharp blade. Technically each blade you use should have a slightly different skew angle. On a long production run you may luck out with a close enough skew to just change the blade and not alter your fence angle.  Cheers  Brian