New scroller with a BIG question

[Tocaone]

Hi all...scroll saw newbie here!!  I have completed a few projects and had fantastic luck and results, so I want to expand some on the things I am making.
I am completely taken with the 3D/compound ornaments and candle holders. I have made two attempts and failed miserably.  My bottom cuts are way off..I am going as slow as I can and trying to let the bottom of the blade catch up with the top, but obviously there is some user error going on here.   
Anyone out there willing to give me some pointers/advice on cutting these things?  What wood is best? And above all else how do I decide what blade to use?  HELP

[julief]

Hi and welcome to the forum.  I'm Julie from Texas.  Glad to have you.  I do a fair amount of compound cutting.  The wood really doesn't matter.  I usually use pine or poplar because they both cut well but I have cut just about everything in glue-ups and chunks that I have laying around.  It sounds to me like your blade is not tensioned tight enough.  Go with a #5 or #7 unless there is very tight turns - then back up to a #3.  You do not need a reverse tooth blade because it doesn't matter what the back looks like.  I like using skip tooth blades for compound cuts because it removes the saw dust faster.  Try a few different blades and see what feels right to you. 

[Tocaone]

Thanks Julie, but I am confused.  When cutting the 3D or compound candleholder, I want the bottom cut to be a mirror of the top cut so that when all the excess is cut away I have identical sides.  I have a piece of wood that is 2 x 2 x 6.  I have the pattern attached to two sides and holes drilled for insertion of the blade.  Each cut forms the front and back of the design.  A perfectly cut top cut is giving me a bottom cut that is smaller and "deformed".

[RangerJay]

Try some experimenting with a couple different blades on some simple compound shapes - have good tension - use your variable speed settings on the saw to see what works best for you - cardinal rule is to make sure to let the blade do the cutting - and don't forget to watch out for the tendency to push sideways on the blade (it is real easy to do when cutting thicker material).  Before cutting the second side also make sure your pieces are well secured.

You'll get it in the end - I always find it kind of a magical moment when you finish cutting your compound project - take the pieces apart - and presto - instant 3D figure ....

Jay

[dunk]

For all my compound cuts and I do a ton of them I use a Flying Dutchman polar #5.  Keep your tension tight, allow the saw to do the cutting so slow down your feed rate.  Practice practice practice.

[Tocaone]

Thanks all, I really appreciate the advice and the support.  Took another stab at it today and for awhile things went really well.  Then the inevitable closely spaced cut outs; the back turned into one large cut out instead of the two smaller ones that were so pretty on the front side.  I AM going to get this, so I will just keep practicing until one of those practices turns into success!!  Have only used Olson blades, so think I might order some Flying Dutchman blades and give them a try.
Cathy 

[julief]

I use both Flying Dutchman and Olson Blades.  Get a variety and find what works best for you.  It sounds like you are either losing tension or pushing your wood.  I keep my saw running pretty fast but feed the wood slowly.  Take your time and keep trying. 

[RangerJay]

Yes - don't worry - you WILL get there ......

One other thing to check - make sure your table is exactly square to your blade - if it is off even a little bit this may be magnified in a thicker cut.

Assuming all is square then another little experiment might be to cut a couple 1" and 2" perfect circles and also a couple 1" and 2" perfect squares using wood that is the same thickness as your compound project.  Cut one of each moving the blade through the wood in a clockwise fashion and then the other moving through the wood in a counter-clockwise fashion.  See what happens.  Obviously they should be the same on the bottom as on the top.  Your results may help you to figure out what is going on - for example if your squares are fine and your circles are not - then that might be one suggestion that the blade is being pushed sideways in a curve - very easy to do - even when you are consciously trying not to.


Jay

[Tocaone]

Thanks Jay, I will give the circle and square cuts a try.  I have also decided to go with a softer wood, see if that will help me.  I understand from the replies I have received and posts I have read that the kind of wood shouldn't matter, but hoping maybe it does for a newbie!!  I had a piece of Bloodwood that was the perfect 2x2x6 size, I know that is a really hard wood, but knew if I could cut it, it would be beautiful.  Next I tried a piece of Andiroba a lot softer, but still pretty hard...that was the last piece I butchered.   :-)  Going to use Poplar this time. 

[EIEIO]

You may be pushing your work piece to the side rather that just into the blade as you make a turn and stay on line. It's easy to do, especially if you started with thin material where the bend in the blade doesn't show up so much.

Try softer woods to get used to the compound cuts, and a new blade (they are cheap enough).

Look around here for a video on how to square your blade and table. That will certainly bugger up a cut in thick wood. And make sure the blade tension is high. Pluck it and it should sound like a high E guitar string - or C, D, E above middle C on the piano.   

[wombatie]

Hi and welcome to the Workshop.  I'm Marg from Australia.   I have never mastered compound cutting because I hold the wood too tight and push too hard, which in turn helps to slaggen off the blade slightly. I will conquer it one day when I have nothing else to do.

Marg

[Tocaone]

Yesterday I saw a little success!!  While I am nowhere ready to say I have mastered compound cutting, I feel very encouraged.  Running the saw at 1200 spm made a huge difference as the blade seemed run a little truer, with less drag, but was still having problems with the cut outs that were closely spaced.  (Two nice cuts on top that turned into one big cut on the back).  I dragged out the carpenter's square and the level AGAIN and everything looked good but then noticed a little play in the table.  My husband set down at the saw, added some extra muscle to tightening the table lock and I ran a couple of test cuts.  The absolutely BEST and CLEANEST cuts I have had.  I can't wait to get back to the shop today and see how things go!!

[RangerJay]

It is pretty much a guarantee that once you have conquered your issue and feel confident and comfortable in making clean, square and accurate cuts (sounds like you are very close to all), then you will be taking your own turn at providing the benefit of your skill and experience to someone else getting into compound cuts and needing a hand.


Jay

[Toneman]

Welcome! I am Tony,aka,Toneman from Paris, Texas.

[Tocaone]

Hi Tony, thanks for the welcome.  Compound cutting is still giving me a rough time.  Had a lot more cleaner and straighter cuts but still having issues with the "top of the blade getting ahead of the bottom of the blade"....pretty sure that's user error!!    I haven't conceded, but I have laid that project aside as it was just something I wanted to do. I have a project that I am doing for a friend and needed to get that started.  IF it turns out, I will post a pic...  Thanks for all the support!!