Spiral Blades Avice?

[Spartan scroller]

I have been trying to learn to cut with spiral blades and not having much success. I am currently cutting an owl portrait with regular flat blades and I just keep thinking how much easier this would be with a spiral.  I have experimented with lines and curves and swirls on scrap wood with spirals and found I just can't keep them on the lines. They just wander all over the place (I know...it's not the blade, its the loose nut pushing the wood into it). My question is what are the basics of cutting with a spiral blade other than practice practice practice?

Regards,
Terry

[pddesertrat]

I just started out real slow, no hurry.   It only took a short time before I was more comfortable with spirals than flat blades.  Do not force them, let them do the cutting.  They need tension so they don't flex much.  Relax. 

[dirtrider73068]

I cut a project with my first spirals and found that they need good tension but not too tight it will break them before they get to be tensioned, the smaller spirals 2/0 and 3/0 will take less tension than a 1, and go slow let the blade do the cutting unlike straight blade you can't push much or they flex too much or will break. If they wander thats the nature they love to follow the grain hence going slow let them cut till you get hang of them.

Also get good spirals flying dutchman or olsen, if you get the big box store brands like bosch you will do nothing but waste time and blades they are junk.

Since using my first spirals I am now hook and itching to get more and get more into using spirals on other more portrait type cutting.

[pddesertrat]

Please, if you get hooked on spirals, like I have, continue to practice with flat blades also.  I have been using spirals exclusively for 6 months or so.  I now have projects, that flat blades would work best for.  I am really struggling with the flat blades.  It is harder for me to "re-learn" them than it was for me to learn to use spirals.  I wish I would have kept up with them also.

[dirtrider73068]

Please, if you get hooked on spirals, like I have, continue to practice with flat blades also.  I have been using spirals exclusively for 6 months or so.  I now have projects, that flat blades would work best for.  I am really struggling with the flat blades.  It is harder for me to "re-learn" them than it was for me to learn to use spirals.  I wish I would have kept up with them also.

Most definetly will keep flats on hand and use them as well as spirals some patterns I have seen would take both spiral and flat baldes, the benifit I found with spirals is curves and circles are easier with a spiral than a flat.

[RangerJay]

Try a little experimentation with different spirals - my go-to spiral has become a #1 FD Spiral with flat ends for pretty much any thickness or type of wood that I use in the saw.  From time to time I will use a 2/0 or 3/0 which I know others use and love - but can't say that I've had the same warm feelings about them - always end up going back to my #1's. 

In addition to firm tension already mentioned make sure you are not pushing into the blade - just smooth, gentle guidance.  As far as saw speed goes mine will vary - but generally a moderate speed to start - increasing only if it feels comfortable - once the cut is finished I will clean it up at high speed - essentially sanding any uneven portions of the cut.

They take a bit of getting used to - but once you start feeling comfortable with sprial blades they become really enjoyable to use.

Jay

[GrayBeard]

I use the 2/0 and 3/0 spirals for all my 'portrait' type cuttings...MY rules are....

1. As much tension as the blade will stand without breaking
2. Saw speed as fast as you can work with, the faster the better
3. If you think you are going slow enough you are probably going too fast! SLOW feed!

You are not really using a 'blade' but a tiny round 'rasp'!!!

~~~GrayBeard~~~

[Judy Hunter]

Every thing is right on.  I use nothing but Flying Dutchman 0/2 or 0/3 spirals.
Be sure your table/blade is right on SQUARE, that will help the blade track truer too.

[UHMNL]

Judy is right on.
The FD-NS spirals are easier to control as most other once. It was my best selling spiral for the last year.
Contact the Wooden Teddy Bear, to order some. www.woodenteddybear.com is there website and phone # 1-503-760-1614
I sold my business to them. They also bought my website and the FD Mike name.
It is now SD Mike. email address: sdmike@alliancecom.net.
Mike

[Dakota Saw Dust]

I'm new to spirals also. Tension, speed, etc. as everyone mentioned. Plus I have found the teeth per inch to be something I watch. One of the FD #1's has a 27 TPI and the other has a 36 TPI [I think?].  Any way, with the higher teeth per inch I am able to follow the line better, have more control on the straight lines, and have less fuzzes.  The 27 TPI would require a sacrificial ply layer to the bottom because the tear out was so bad.  Good luck & don't take "no" for an answer.  Cheers  Brian

[MOONIE]

I agree with Graybeard, especially about the blade speed and SLOW feed rate.    Recently I've been using the FD-SP Rev No. 2/0. I love it because there is VERY little tear out and excellent control.    --Moonie

[ChuckD]

How fast would you be going (feeding) if you were trying to cut a line in a piece of wood if you were using a file, a regular, ordinary wood file?  I don't think very fast.  Spiral Blades are just like that file.  They are more or less grinding away the wood.  So you can almost expect the same results.  Not a smooth cut and not a fast cut. And for those long lines and curves, use the flats.  Whatever you do take your time and there are no rules saying you have to use the same blades, size or type, on any project.
Most of all enjoy.  Some people don't use spirals because they don't enjoy using them.  Works for me..

[ChuckD]

One thing I should have added to the above post.  If you want to cut a long line or a curve, and you want a thick klif, do it first with a flat blade, then go over it with a spiral.  Makes it a lot easier and looks great.