Blade for table saw

[redneckn]

What kind of blade do you guys/gals use for cutting on your table saws as tear out is an issue on the thinner stuff? I mainly use red oak 1/4"(non plywood) and some 1/4 bb ply. Just wondering as my table saw has a 24t carbide that is giving me a good bit of tear out. Thanks!

[Toneman]

I believe using at least a 60t all purpose blade would work better. Also, try using masking tape on the cut line.

Tony,aka,Toneman

[julief]

Tape will make a world of difference.  Give it a try.  Your blade is too aggressive for thin boards.  Tony is right on the mark.  More teeth = finer cut.  Too many teeth will burn.  A 60 tooth will do just fine.

[Russ C]

I use the Micro-Kerf 40 from Total Saw Solutions. They are a little pricy but well worth it. I have had mine for over a year and absolutely love it. I also bought one for my DeWALT 12'' Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw. It has a very thin kerf, cuts very smooth. Can't say enough good things about it.   

[Rapid Roger]

Technically speaking you are using a ripping blade which works great for cutting WITH the grain of the wood but, is terrible for cross cutting.
A crosscut blade has many more teeth and makes smoother cuts ACROSS the grain. At least 80 or more teeth work best. The thinner the wood, the more teeth are needed. Some blades for thin wood and plywood have as many as 100 teeth.
It is a pain to change blades all the time and I admit that I don't always change back and forth as I should when making just a few small pieces.
Universal or general purpose blades are available and do work (60 or so teeth) but, do not make a real smooth cut like you want  but, work great for what they are made to do.
The tape suggestion works well too but, more importantly, make sure you are using a SHARP blade. Just like scrolling, nothing is more frustrating than trying to make a decent cut with a DULL blade!

Rog

[BilltheDiver]

All the above advice is very good, however I would also strongly suggest the use of a zero clearance throat plate around your blade.  You can probably find one to fit your saw, or if not, create your own.  It can make a huge difference.  Also, to reduce tear out, run your blade at as shallow a cut as you can as opposed to leaving much exposed above the wood you are cutting.

[dirtrider73068]

I got a cheap skil 3 blade set for like 20 bucks has like a think 60t and two 24t blades, my main blade is I think its a 60 tooth, might even be a 80 tooth, the more teeth the less they bite into the wood gving you cleaner cut, though trying to use a 60 or 80 tooth blade on something thicker like a 2x4 or plywood, you do ahve to cut really slow or risk burning the wood or bogging the motor down.

Using a less count tooth can be made to cut smooth just have to feed it slow let the teeth chip away, but its best to get a higher count blade like a60 or 80 tooth, you will tell the difference, I have tried the tape method and still didn't help.

[Rapid Roger]

I agree with Bill. A zero clearance insert does make some difference in cut quality AND it keeps small, thin pieces of wood from falling down and caught up in the blade causing kick-back also.
I have a two piece set of Freud blades (24 t ripping blade and 80 t crosscut blade) that I bought at Lowe's for  $50.00 - $75.00 I think. Not all that bad for some good blades that will last you for quite awhile.

Rog

[pddesertrat]

Well I think you got the needed info in the responses.  I like the Freud blades and they are reasonable priced.  I bought an expensive Forrest Woodworker II blade because I had always read what a wonderful blade they were.  Well they are a good blade, no doubt, but in my opinion not that much better than a good Freud.

Zero Clearance, painters tape on the cut line and the saw blade no higher that the bottom of the gullets is my method.  Not saying it is the best or only method, but it is how I do it.

[redneckn]

Thanks for the advice. I picked up an 80t blade. It also fits my makita radial arm saw so that's a bonus. I will also try the painters tape and setting my blade height. I am definitely a newbie. I'm a commercial heating and air gut so my experience stops at a sawzall. I've just started in this woodworking in the last few months.

[dirtrider73068]

Thanks for the advice. I picked up an 80t blade. It also fits my makita radial arm saw so that's a bonus. I will also try the painters tape and setting my blade height. I am definitely a newbie. I'm a commercial heating and air gut so my experience stops at a sawzall. I've just started in this woodworking in the last few months.

Here is a tip, that might help with the workings and maintance of the table saw, youtube there is loads of info on table saws, and also sleds and jigs you can make to use on the table saw. I also went to my libary and looked up books on wood working and come across good books on table saw how to's and a good book on router useage as well, I also found books on scrollsaw patterns.

I have a sled for my table saw its a miter sled, works great, on youtube look up steve ramsey miter sled he shows how to make it, works good for perfect miters he also explains how and why it makes good miters. I used mine on a small box and 4 corners fit perfect, and I made mine with scrap laying around the floor.

[mlwmerk]

I use a 40 tooth blade with a zero clearance throat on my table saw.  I am fortunate enough to have a miter saw for cross cuts and I use a 60 tooth blade on it.  Both blades are thin kurf.  They both work great for thin wood all the way up to and including wettish pressure treated two by material.

One other tip in addition to using blue tape before cutting the wood.  After applying the tape, take a sharp utility knife and score where the cut line is going to be.  This will virtually eliminate tear out.

Walt in CT