Author Topic: Foot Pedal  (Read 8556 times)

Offline GrayBeard

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2014, 10:59:34 am »
Dead Man style for me!
ESPECIALLY on my router whether freehand or mounted in the router table!

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Offline newfie

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2014, 11:12:25 am »
i have a DEAD MAN foot pedal and love.don't know what i would do without it now.


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Offline BilltheDiver

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2014, 02:53:39 pm »
I have a deadman on my RBI scrollsaw, but a paddle switch on my router table.  The paddles allows me to  move around more, but has the safety aspect of hitting it with anything should a problem arise.
"Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

Offline Rapid Roger

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2014, 08:15:54 pm »
Hey Bill,
I totally agree with you, paddle switches are the "cats meow" and probably one of the best "safety" items on a power tool!
I made one for my table saw and more than once saved my skin from a kick back. (probably the most common injury from a table saw despite what "Saw Stop" says.) I can keep both hands firmly holding the material and just lift my left leg enough for my knee to hit the switch and kill the saw. Just don't panic and don't move until the blade stops and you will be OK.
Some times I just reach down with out looking and just slap it with my hand so I can watch what is going on on top of the saw and keep the material under control.
Even if I should bump it accidentally, all it does is kill the saw and I can re-start it easily, and that is better than looking for the red button on the switch when you really need it any-day.



I have taken a chunk of skin and meat out of my thumb by hitting the blade after a board kicked back and hit me in the stomach but, that was BEFORE and the reason I made the paddle switch.

Rog
An ounce of responsablity is worth 10 pounds of state and fedral laws.

Offline BilltheDiver

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2014, 09:49:06 am »
Nice setup Roger.  I would like to do the same to my Unisaw, but I'm unsure about how to set it up with the 220v motor.  I think it may use a magnetic switch.  I agree it is definetly a big advantage on a table saw!
"Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

ChuckD

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2014, 12:39:41 pm »
Roger, Looks like a great idea.  I have a different kind of switch so I have to do something for a switch that is used for both on and off.  Many times I wish it was more in reach and had some "uneasy" moments until I could.  Will work on it.
Bill, I don't think it makes any different if it is a 220 or not.  It looks like Roger's is also a 220 V.

Offline EIEIO

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #21 on: June 07, 2014, 01:48:46 pm »
I use the deadman type (saw runs while you're holding the pedal down). One thing - you don't want your light on the same switch. My earlier Porter-Cable came with a built in light. The deadman on that one would turn off the saw and the light when you took your foot off the pedal.

While you're at it, you might think about putting a surge suppressor outlet or power strip to power the saw. These saws have electronic speed controls in them, so they could be damaged from a lightning surge just like a computer power supply.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2014, 01:51:26 pm by EIEIO »
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pddesertrat

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #22 on: June 07, 2014, 02:09:21 pm »
Rog, been going to make one of those big paddles for my table saw.  Some reason I keep putting it off, but maybe with all this switch discussion I will get to it.  It is certainly a very simple, effective safety feature for a table saw.  I also want to get a good splitter for my saw.  I've tried a couple of the cheapies and they just are a pain.  I'm looking at the Shark splitter, but have to figure out if one will fit my model.  My model is not listed but there is one that is very close.  I have to contact Steel City and see what the difference is.

Offline Rapid Roger

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #23 on: June 07, 2014, 03:58:29 pm »
Bill....
It shouldn't make any difference if your saw is 220 v, 110 v or even 440 v. The paddle just depresses the STOP switch. It is the same switch that came on my saw (which by the way is 110 v) I just used a piece of plywood and a section of piano hinge and screwed it to the rail on the saw.

Chuck....
The switch is one that came on my saw. It is just a simple push button switch, with a green start button and a red stop that sticks out a bit further than the face of the switch. Then can be purchased after market at Rockler's   or other wood working stores or even at an electrical supply place. In fact, I would probably start my search at an Ace hardware store! I'm sure it could be attached to your saw and wired up with out much problem.

pddesertrat.....
I don't have a splitter on my saw either. I know that they are recommended and are a good safety device and have considered getting one. Most of them are mounted on the blade insert and I make my own "0 clearance" inserts and it just seems to be too much trouble to put one on.
I have about eight different inserts that I change out quite often. I have the "stock" insert that came with the saw ( that I seldom use unless I'm cutting an odd angle between 0 and 45 degrees), I have a 0 clearance for both a standard 1/8" blade and the thin kerf blade, I have two for (one each) for the dado sets, two for the box joint blade set (one for 1/4" and one for the 3/8") and one that is dedicated to 45 degree cuts. Not all of those even need a splitter anyway. :)

Rog
An ounce of responsablity is worth 10 pounds of state and fedral laws.

Offline BilltheDiver

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #24 on: June 07, 2014, 04:59:37 pm »
My paddle switches are electrical and replace the existing ones, however I think the one on my Unisaw is a magnetic switch.  That's why I have been hesitant to replace that one.  I need to unplug the saw and open the switch to examine it.  I just keep procrastinating.
"Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

Offline puzzleguy

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #25 on: June 15, 2014, 05:07:36 pm »
I have a couple of air on/off switches -( bought from the old RBI company ) which are the safest ( no contact with electricity ) where the switch plugs into the wall
and an air hose connects up to a bellows that when tapped with your foot it goes on or off -
you dont have to keep your foot on it -tap it to turn on , tap it to turn it off .
I also own a deadman switch -and i use it on one of my saws -- but keeping your foot constantly on it
when your cutting for hours on end gives me cramps in my foot - not crazy about it.
it has its place - but it drives me nuts !

pddesertrat

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #26 on: June 16, 2014, 01:52:35 pm »
Well, got  the foot pedal, got the HF lamp (much nicer than I expected and on sale!), got some new blades from Mike's Workshop, only thing left is the handles I want to make for the screws that hold the blade.  Then I'm ready to rumble!  I'm building a cart for my street organ and I want to try an intarsia American Flag on the front of the cart.  That will be my test of all these upgrades.

Thanks for all the input!!

Offline EIEIO

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #27 on: June 18, 2014, 10:40:14 pm »
Do you have a photo of the Street Organ? That sounds interesting.
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mlwmerk

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2014, 10:27:18 am »
This reply is directed to Chuck D reply #4. 

He says something to the effect that a dead man switch is good if you "are standing four feet away and a blade breaks"!! 

OMG!!  Seriously Chuck??  Why in the heck are you standing four feet away from a running machine??  That is just really dumb. 

I think you need to clarify that comment.  I doubt that you would even consider stepping away from a running machine for even a second, shop vacs excluded.

ChuckD

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Re: Foot Pedal
« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2014, 01:35:54 pm »
This reply is directed to Chuck D reply #4. 

I think you need to clarify that comment.  I doubt that you would even consider stepping away from a running machine for even a second, shop vacs excluded.

OK, just to clarify.  When the blade breaks, I find myself 4 feet from the saw.  That is the result of the "sound of the blade breaking".  Before the break, I was where most normal people are, next to the saw.  And when the blade breaks and I move away the saw stops, like it should, due to the foot switch I "was" on.  See, now does that make sense, and to show I am not dumb, or have extremely long arms.

 

SMF

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