Boxes

[Rapid Roger]

Not a normal scroll sawing project I know but, this is the type of thing that I enjoy making.
They are boxes for Christmas gifts for my grandchildren. I cut all five boxes out of one large board that measured 3-1/2" x 5" x 45" long. Granted, most of the initial work was done on the table saw but, I cut the centers out with the scroll saw and of course the inlayed names on the tops were cut on the scroll saw as well as the bevels for the sliding dovetails on the lids.
I pretty much left the rough finish of the original board in tact on purpose  and use some cherry scraps for the letters for contrast.
Hope you enjoy something different from time to time. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
I took step by step photos which of course as you know, "A picture is worth a thousand words". 









Rog

[newfie]

nice work Rog thanks for sharing

[countryscroller]

They all look very nice! Thanks for sharing.

[DWSudekum]

Those look great Roger.  They are going to treasure them for a long time.  Thanks for sharing them with us.

DW

[spirithorse]

Nice work, Roger,
Can you explain how you cut the sliding dove-tails on the scroll saw, please?
Maybe I can learn something! LOL
Thanks and God Bless! Spirithorse

[wombatie]

They look really great Roger.  They will cherish them.

Marg

[frankorona]

Excellent work, the boxes will be a great gift, thanks for sharing.

[Rapid Roger]

Nice work, Roger,
Can you explain how you cut the sliding dove-tails on the scroll saw, please?
Maybe I can learn something! LOL
Thanks and God Bless! Spirithorse

No problem about explaining the dovetail process....As I said, I have pictures. 
The top of the box is actually two pieces which are glued back together after cutting the dovetails. Using the lower (inside) part you just tilt the table to around 15 degrees and cut a large squared off U shape out of it. The inside of the U is glued back to the outer top piece and the outside of the U is glued back to the sides of the box.
Note that the actual top (outside part) is in the lower right part of the picture.





You want to make sure that you leave a bit of edge on the sides and that the two pieces fit and slide easily before gluing the outer top to the center section.
Does that explain it enough? If not, I'll try to explain it further.

Rog

[Dakota Saw Dust]

Good project. Like the 15 degree dovetail. How big was the starting block & what was the finial dimensions?  What did you use to cut the "top" and "bottom" off? Thanks for the detailed pics.

[spirithorse]

Thanks for the reply, Roger,
I have to admit that I am still a bit lost but, your description did give me an idea of
how I could accomplish this. I'd probably either have to use a band saw or several layers cut and glued back together if I used the scroll saw but, I now have an idea that should work.
God Bless! Spirithorse

[Marcellarius]

nice job Roger, bet they like it very much.
nice way of making boxes! great picture story.

[Rapid Roger]

Good project. Like the 15 degree dovetail. How big was the starting block & what was the finial dimensions?  What did you use to cut the "top" and "bottom" off? Thanks for the detailed pics.

When I started, my board was 3-1/2" x 5" x 45" long. I used the table saw to cut five pieces for the boxes. The pieces vary in length from 7" to 8" in length because I had to avoid some knot holes and drilled holes that were already in the board from previous use.
I used the table saw again to cut the tops, dovetail piece, center section, and bottom off of each block. Four pieces all together (be sure to mark each piece in order to reassemble them for grain match) there were three pieces 3/8" thick for the top, dovetail piece and bottom and that left a 2" thick center section after counting the kerf of the saw blade. I had to run the blocks through the saw and then flip it over and make another cut to get through the 5" wide cut. Obviously a band saw would have a much better tool but, I don't have one.
As you might guess, the 2" thickness of the center fairly well maxed out the scroll saw! By drilling a 3/4" hole in each corner it made it much easier than trying to follow a curve at the corners.
Before anyone asks...I used an Olson FR408TW blade which has a .080 width and a .018 kerf thickness with 7 TPI to cut the center section out and a Flying Dutchman FD-SR No 3 for the dovetail cut and the inlay on the names.
The final dimensions of the largest boxes (there are two) Is 5" wide x 8" long x 3-1/8" deep give or take a bit of sanding.  
Hope that helps.

Rog

PS. The inside dimensions are about 4-1/4" wide (3/8" walls) x 7" long (I left 1/2" on the front and back because end grain tends to break easily) and 2" deep more of less.

[Rapid Roger]

I forgot another little trick that I like to use.
The tops (lids if you will) are held closed with magnets. If you look at the picture of the dovetail cutting, you will notice a small hole drilled near the front edge that is where one of the magnets goes. I slid the center of the dovetail section in the box, drilled a 3/16" hole through it and into the front edge of the box. Only drill the hole 3/16" deep in the edge and that is where the matching magnet goes. Just use super glue to keep the magnets in place and MAKE SURE that they attract each other and don't repel against each other.
I get my magnets which are 3/16" diameter and 3/16" from those little refrigerator "push pin" plastic magnets which are available most places and are about the cheapest I can find. You get five sets (ten magnets) per package in matching colors. I just use a vice or pliers to break the plastic off the magnets and I'm "GOOD TO GO! 
The cool part of this is when you close the box and get down to about 1/2" the magnets take over and snap the lids shut like magic! And they hold the lid closed for normal use you just have to push on the back edge of the lid to slide it open again. The grandkids really love that part when the lid goes "SNAP!" 
Just another crazy idea from a crazy old man. 

Rog   

[EIEIO]

Thanks Roger - that is pretty clear now. I've used that double cut with my 10" tablesaw to resaw a board - it comes out better than I can get with my old bandsaw (1956 Craftsman).

I had a question on the sliding section shown in your photo above - it looks like the grain takes a step about mid-width. Was this original board a glue-up to make the 3.5x5 dimension? Or did you rip that sliding section for some reason?

[Rapid Roger]

No, it is not a glue up, it was one solid board.  The step you see is simply mis-alignment from the rip cut on the table saw. I just decided not to sand it out as it matched the same step on the top and made that glue up a good match. I was afraid that if I sanded the step out of both sides I would never get a nice flat, smooth seam on the outer edges.
I tried to get as invisible seams and good grain match as I could considering the saw kerf area that is missing. I still think that because of the thinner blade and continuous cut of your bandsaw, you could make it look even better no matter the age of your bandsaw.  Invest in a new blade and give it a try, I would love to see your version of it. 

Rog