Yes
after making that adjudgement then using the saw for a bit then it started knocking really bad.
this is where I got the info from. I had to take it in to get fixs I hope there is no fix to it and they just give me a new one. the knocking just got worse. it been doing it for a long time and other speeds now it just does it at all speed even at top speed and bang bang bang and I can feel in the motor as well as the upper arm. I got the front band back movement nice and make better turns but it &*^^ me off now it got a knocking to it.
http://www.scrollsaws.com/then click on excaiibar tune ups
Excalibar front to back movement:
From the Fox Chapel Forum: Jan, Southwest Florida and John B., Kalgoorlie, Western Australia
I have an EX-21 and the adjustment for the back to front oscillation is stone simple. Even I can do it.
The motor has adjustment slots where it is mounted to the saw. Loosen the screws holding the motor in place. Run the saw at the slowest speed and slowly rotate the motor until the oscillation is gone or almost gone. Just turn the motor one way or the other and you will notice the oscillations decrease and increase. I found it was good to have a strong light and a piece of white paper on the opposite side of the blade so you can see the oscillation. I stuck a piece of white paper to a block of wood, put a vertical line on it, lined up the blade to the line and used that as a reference point.
John and I have discussed the instructions given to us by Ray at Seyco. I remember slowest, he sort of remembers fastest. I suppose it's whatever works for you. I suspect that the slow speed will allow you to see the oscillation a bit better. When you have accomplished this, tighten the screws. If you reach the end of the adjustment slot, remove the screws and replace them at the other end of the slot and keep slowly turning the motor as described above.
That is the way I was told, but I use a dial gauge set against the blade. Turn the motor with a screw driver in the slot on the end of the drive shaft, then adjust the motor as above until the movement is minimal and re tighten the motor.
I've received this instruction from Ray at Seyco also. He instructed me to do at high speed. I have had the opportunity to see him do the adjustment and noticed that he used slow speed. My guess is that he thought it would be easier for me to see the oscillation at the higher speed. Whichever way works best for you!
Another note on this: When I received my saw, the oscillations where horrendous. It ran as quiet as a mouse, and as smooth as a babies bum, but I almost sent it back because of the movement in the blade. The dills in Oz where I got the saw from never had a clue what I was talking about, never mind a fix for it. In desperation, after Pajaro advised it, I gave Ray, at Seyco, a ring. Problem fixed.
Some pictures from Randy Gloden:
I did a close up of the slot to show how the bolts are moved from hole to hole as the motor is rotated. The third picture shows how the cord is attached to the motor. It isn't long enough to allow the motor to be rotated 360%, however, it does allow 180% which covers the full range of aggressive to nominal oscillation.
I found that the motor is very solid (it won't come out or budge), even with no bolts holding it at all. I found it easiest to just remove the bolts, then rotate the motor to make the adjustment. The motor should be run on slow (I tried fast with the bolts loose and that created noise that indicated such a speed wasn't good for that saw).
