Author Topic: Question for Portrait Makers  (Read 1280 times)

IBMer

  • Guest
Question for Portrait Makers
« on: April 23, 2013, 11:37:56 pm »
Seems like I always end up breaking a tiny part or two when I do portraits.   I'm getting pretty good at gluing them back on and blending with sandpaper.   The funny part is that they don't usually break while I'm cutting.   I've broke a few (Eye Highlights) while removing my tape or lightly sanding.  (Oh, this usually happens with 1/8 baltic birch, not so much with 1/4").. 

Is this a common issue?   Do you guys end up having to glue parts back on?   What do you use?  I've been using CA glue and accelerator spray.

Oh, what do you guys use to finish your portraits?   I've been putting a couple coats of low gloss lacquer spray on the front, then glue a black paperboard to the rear.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2013, 11:39:53 pm by IBMer »

Old Crow

  • Guest
Re: Question for Portrait Makers
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2013, 12:02:19 am »
John, I have broken fragile parts very rarely but it does happen. I have used titebond translucent glue to stick them back together with good results.
I use 2 or 3 mm foam sheets (Sillywinks) for the backer or sometimes I will stain a piece of 1/8 inch Baltic birch with ebony stain.
To finish my portraits I use either Natural or Golden Oak stain and sometimes Cherry stain, depending on the subject, finished with Deft semi gloss or satin spray lacquer.
Don R

Offline EIEIO

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 2147
  • Be Prepared.
    • View Profile
    • RMHayes, LLC
Re: Question for Portrait Makers
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2013, 12:09:15 am »
I look over the pattern for weak spots before and while I'm cutting and adjust if needed. I had a few break-outs when I started scrolling but mostly they were from using cheaper (Lowes) birch skinned plywood. I haven't had any since switching to good grade Baltic Birch.

I use a repositionable spray adhesive to put the pattern on the board. If it's just one or two blanks in the stack then I may skip the plastic tape. When done I put the piece in the microwave for 30 sec to soften the spray glue. If it's still stubborn, or too big for the microwave, I use a WEN heat gun.

After the pattern is off I wipe the top copy with Mineral Spirits to get the glue off, then hit it with a random orbit sander.

Some pieces I wiped with BLO, others with Howard's Feed-N-Wax, and any that are going to someone I add 2 or 3 layers of spray lacquer.

Usually I back it with black cardstock, but the last few I cut had an exposed head (no boundary wood around it) so I glued it to a stained 1/8" BB Ply for strength (on one I glued cardstock to the 1/8" BB backboard).

 
EX-21 arrived 2-1-2013!
Porter-Cable PCB370SS in the corner
Lancaster Ohio
Ray Hayes - RMHayes@RMHayes.US
www.RMHayes.US

Offline GrayBeard

  • *****
  • Hero Member
  • Posts: 7088
  • My DW 788 sends you HUGZZZZ from Missouri, USA!
    • View Profile
Re: Question for Portrait Makers
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2013, 12:36:40 am »
A. Stack cut no less than 3 pcs. of 1/8" BB. The bottom piece is assumed to be a throwaway but I almost always manage to salvage mine.

B. For portraits with delicate areas I never use the blue painters' tape under the pattern.

C. I use 3M #77 spray adhesive to adhere the pattern to the top piece.

D. IMPORTANT - SAND all faces to at least 220 grit before even assembling the stack, backs are sanded to 150 grit.

E. Start with the most delicate areas first. If you screw up you waste boards but less time if something goes haywire.

F. When the cutting is complete, flip the stack face down on and totally flat surface and use the ROS with 150 grit to sand away as many of the 'fuzzies' as possible.

G. Carefully separate the stack, spray mineral spirits from a cleaning solution spray bottle and totally saturate the pattern, let sit for about 5 minutes and gently remove the pattern. IF you used packing tape over the pattern the 5 minutes will allow the mineral spirits time to soak under the tape for easy removal of the pattern and tape.

H. Gently wipe the face of the piece with a very soft cloth soaked in mineral spirits taking care NOT to SNAG any delicate areas. I use the blue paper shop towels available in most auto supply stores and W~M.

I. Allow the pieces to thoroughly dry, dip in a 50/50 mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil & mineral spirits. Wipe off excess and allow to dry for at least 24 hours checking to be sure that no 'mix' is weeping out of the wood (gently wipe it off).

J. Spray with several coats of Satin Lacquer (Minwax) sanding with a piece of brown grocery bag between coats.

K. Using Alene's Tacky Glue, attach piece to backer of choice, frame and display.

This is certainly not the only way to do portrait cuttings but is sure works for ol' GrayBeard....

~~~GB~~~
I never really wanted to grow up....All I wanted was to be able to reach the cookie jar...and play with my DW 788

Offline crupiea

  • **
  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 75
    • View Profile
Re: Question for Portrait Makers
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2013, 09:22:49 am »
I sand before I put the pattern on so the wood is noce and smooth.

Then when i attach the pattern I use a very, very light coating of spray glue.  So light that it will almost fall off by itself.

Dont have the breaking problem anymore.

If I do need to sand, obviously I dont use a sander.

 

SMF

Teknoromi