My Next Scroll Saw

[IBMer]

Hello,

  I've seen a ton of posts regarding which scroll saw was the best for the price.    I started about 3 months ago and have worn my Porter Cable saw to death.   The poor thing shakes so bad that I swear it would walk across the shop floor if it wasn't bolted down.   It breaks blades left and right.    I'm not knocking the saw, but let's face it, it's entry level and I've been doing a lot of serious scroll saw work using very dense hard woods.

I've read reviews on Excalibur saw, Dewalt, Delta and a few others.   The Dewalt seems to be the best deal for the price.  As it turns out, I have a Dewalt service center withing walking distance of my home which could be a plus if I ever need parts.   Excalibur sounds amazing, but I'd have to order one online since no one around here carries them.

One post I read on the Dewalt 788 claims that you can stand a Nickle on end on top of the Dewalts work table and it won't fall over when you run the tool.    Is this just a fairy tail, or is it really that quiet and smooth running?    I know that Woodcraft has the saw on sale, and I think my other woodworking store has the same price on it.

I don't use a scroll saw every day, but it's not unusual for me to use it every other day in any given week.   I like woods like Purple Heart, Bacote, Cocobolo, so I need something with guts.

My two main complaints about my current PC saw is that the blades are hard to change, and the tension is at the back of the machine and can be kind of hard to adjust while reaching over the saw.

So let's hear it, what is your favorite saw for less than $1000 and why?    I'll probably see about having my PC tuned up and set it aside as a backup saw.     Let's hear about your experiences with issues, customer service, longevity, durability.  Which machines shake, which don't?  Quiet is good, so is a strong dust blower.   Lighting isn't too high on my list since I have a lighted Magnifying glass that I use for most detailed work.

John

[Terry Jackson]

I started with the Hitachi version of your saw.  Took the lower left cover off, replaced the lower blade clamp screw with the thumb screw from the Hold Down.  Life was good.

Next I acquired an EX-21 for the top feed and for the tilt the motor not the table feature for bowls.  Sweet.  It raises the arm and keeps it there for top feeding and will clear any stack or thickness you can cut.  The tension is up front and is an over-center device that always applies the same tension.

Next was a DW 788 Type I used in great condition.  The tilt arm does not want to stay up and will barely clear a 3/4" workpiece.  There are workarounds.  The tension is an inclined plane and can be set where you want it. The table tilts, not the head, so gravity is an issue in bowls and such.

Net of everything the EX-21 is a better saw for my projects, but may not be for yours.  I use mostly Birch that I have cut to 1/4" nominal and sand on a wide drum sander.  Four pieces in a stack may still be 1.25" thick.  Bowl and box projects range from .74" to 1.25" thick, and cut angles are around 22 degrees, depending on ring thickness.

Service on the EX is impeccable.Got min from Seyco.com and had a broken link.  They sent the parts no charge and I fixed it.

Vibration on the saws is minimal when run without a load.  Type of wood and blade choice can make a huge difference.  I would rate them equal on vibration.

Both have good dust blowers.

If you do anything over 1/2" thick or any bevel cuts, the EX is better.  If all your cuts are flat and under 1/2" the DW788and clones are a very good saw.

It all depends on what you want to cut. Both should be good for many years of cutting.  They are both quieter than the PC or Hitachi. Ikea sells a floor mount gooseneck lamp that is ideal for most scrollsaw work for a bit over $25. 

Bottom Line:  The EX is the most versatile, the DW is quite functional for less $$$.  The EX likely has better service and support thru Seyco. 

[scrollgirl]

My vote is for the Excalibur.  I have the DeWalt and used it for almost 15 years and still use it as my back up saw, but the Excalibur has brought my own level of sawing even higher. My DeWalt was a Type1 saw (the older one) and we didn't want to replace it with the Type2 DeWalt because of the problems that we have read with both the saws and the customer service.  (The Type 2 DeWalt is made differently than the Type1's were and weighs something like 13 lbs less than the Type 1's as cheaper materials are used to make them)  My partner Keith feels the same way that I do about our Excalibur.  It is just a better saw.   If you tune it properly, there is very little front to back movement and we are able to cut even the most intricate patterns without any difficulty whatsoever. We got ours from Ray from Seyco, even though we live here in Nova Scotia.  Ray is known for his excellent customer service and has certainly proven himself not only with our own experiences and questions, but from any of our customers who have purchased the saw from him too. 

My partner Keith wrote an article on fine tuning the Excalibur which may give you a little more information on it.  The link to it is here:

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/articles/excalibur-tuning

I wish you luck with whatever you choose.  As with most things, you really do get what you pay for. 

Sheila

[julief]

My EX21 is over 10 years old and still going strong.  I would buy another one in a heart beat.  If you choose to order one, go through Seyco.  Ray may not be within walking distance from you, but you will get service like no other.  Ask anyone who has bought from him.  Actually, ask anyone who has called him because they couldn't get service from whomever they bought their saw!  He will help anyone.

[Toneman]

My vote is Excalibur and purchase from Ray @ Seyco. You will not find better customer service. I have a wooden floor and my Ex 21 is mounted on a stand. I put a bag of sand crete on the bottom cross members of the stand amd I get very minimal vibration @ 80% saw speed.

Tony,aka,Toneman

[Jim Finn]

I also cut rather thick woods. (never under 3/4")  Softwood and hardwoods.  I wore out a DeWalt in 20 months and bought a Hegner. It is serving me well.  I suggest you keep an eye out for a used Hegner if you want to stay under $1000 cost. I got a 1986 twenty five inch Hegner for $600.  Blade changes are not the quickest but then I do not do fretwork so that is not an issue for me.

[lwilli]

I originally started with a Dewalt which is also a fine machine. When I was ready to move up to a better machine a very smart person from the Intarsia Forum told me to buy the best machine that you can afford. As Sheila eluded to you really do get what you pay for so I bought an 18" Hegner machine from Advanced Machinery and have never looked back. The people at Advanced Machinery are very knowledgeable about their products and are eagerly willing to share  information regarding the design and engineering differences among machines.
Regardless of which machine you decide upon you need to be happy and comfortable with the company you choose to do business with. As others have said no machine is perfect and there will be issues eventually and  being able to get no nonsense service and availability to parts is very important.

Louis

[mrsn]

Like terry I started with the hitachi version of your saw, and it isn't a bad saw, just not high end.
I have a couple of dewalts in my school shop (as well as a couple porter-cables)
I have a single-speed hegnar, that I would like to replace because of the single speed. I am saving up for an EX-21. The dewalts are nice, but the excaliburs are nicer.  I know if I buy a dewalt, I will still be thinking of trading up. I would rather wait until I can afford the EX then to get the dewalt and then still want the ex.

[slowcutter]

I picked up a 20" Hawk & love it.
No vib & cuts 2"   OK

[dirtrider73068]

I started with a skil saw and it was junk after 6 projects, I went got a craftsman, and have cut alot on it and its not gave me any issues, other than breaking blades from tension not being right or blade slipping out of the clamps, I did grease up the arm bushings, and pivot spots on the tension rod, did a little personal tweaking on it, and love it, got it bolted down on top of a old rug and the vibrations are minimal unless I run full out then it shakes. But so far its held up and I am rough and can be rough on tools.

[IBMer]

So far, the places I've tried for the Excal 21 are out of stock with no ETA..   

There is an Ad posted here locally for an RBI saw, the 216-3 Variable speed.   The unit looks new in the pictures, and the fellow says that he never used it after buying it.    He wants $450 for it.    Doesn't sound too bad if it's as unused as he claims.     

For those RBI owners out there, how hard are blade changes on the RBI?   Are the tension adjustments easy to reach and use?  Might be worth a drive out to look at the used RBI.    I have no experience with them, but they look industrial duty from the pictures.

John

[king310]

I Started with a PC from Lowes. If that is where you bought your saw I would take it back. They will give you your money back. I would bet if you pulled one of the rubber plugs on the side you will find filings. Then you have half of that RBI paid for.

[julief]

John, Call Ray Seymore at Seyco.  His is the ONLY guy to buy from.  He will get you one faster than any store and will make sure every adjustment is perfect before he ships it to you.  I used to live 10 minutes from his shop and I know he gives every inch of the saw a once over before it ever leaves his shop.  He is a good guy and will do everything in his power to make sure your saw is everything you expect it to be.

[BilltheDiver]

I have had a 16 inch RBI and currently use a 26 inch RBI.  Blade changes are not difficult, but it is a bottom feeder.  The 16 is a gem of a saw as long as you don't need more throat depth.  All parts are available from Bushton Mfg who bought out the company and is trying to re-establish the line.  The price may be  a touch high for a 16 VS.  i sold mine on Craigslist for $350.  If you don't like the blade holders, there is a company who makes another type, but I haven't tried them.

[Terry Jackson]

I have a couple of RBI Hawks and prefer not to use them.  Blade changes or hole changes are a challenge as it is a bottom feeder so you do it by feel.  The VS models that I have tend to nearly stall out at lower speeds, but not an issue if you cut in the upper half of the speed range.  I intend to change the blade clamps. 

http://pozsgaidesigns.com/ makes replacement blade holders for a lot of RBI products, and if he has one for the upper and lower clamps it would make for a good saw.

The upper arm rotates well out of the way, and the table is fairly large.  Good Luck.