Following the line

[saggioculo]

So, I've fallen off the grid for awhile so I could practice, practice, practice!!  I've been sticking to some pretty easy patterns with so-so results.  Now...I'm using my 15 year old Ryobi (gotta make do with what you got!) and I've just started using Flying Dutchman pinless blades (I had been using those thick pin-end blades).  While these blades are awesome, I'm having trouble cutting a straight line...even following my pencil lines on the wood is pretty difficult. I'm cutting 1/4 inch pine plywood.  I have two sheets of it so that's what I've been using to practice. 
I've played with the tension and speed but the blade seems to have a mind of it's own!  No matter how fast or slow I try to feed the wood the blade will suddenly make a turn off the line and pretty much kills the project.  What am I doing wrong?  I've tried both the spiral and reverse tooth blades with the same results. 
I really want to try some other types of patterns where I'll need to use the thinner pinless blades instead of the thick pin-end blades I've been using.  Any help or advice would be so very, very much appreciated!
Thanks
Anne

[GrayBeard]

Making do with what you got can sometimes be 'counter productive'!
I am guessing that the pine ploywood may be the problem.
That wood may have voids, patches, inferior glue and any number of other flaws that are working against you.
Take some advice from our scroll teacher, "dgman", and get some small scraps of 1/2 or 3/4 inch pine and try that. I think you will notice a big difference.
Also make sure that you have the tension as tight as you can get it! Loose tension will allow the blade to flex and try to follow the grain directions and in that plywood the grain runs in different directions in each ply.

~~~GB~~~

[Crabbyboater]

Anne, I suspect you don't have the tension on the blade set high enough.  You should be able to hear a fairly high "plink" when you stroke the blade like a guitar string. It helps if you drag the ends of new blades though a piece of folded 220 grit sandpaper before installing them. This cleans oil from the blade and eliminates most slippage of the blade.

[saggioculo]

I do find that the spiral blade wanders more then the reverse tooth blade.  I want to use the spiral because the cut is wider.  I want some of my lines more noticable then the reverse tooth blade leaves.
The circle in red is the reverse tooth blade and the green circle is the spiral.  Also, my saw has different speeds...does the speed I have the saw set at make a difference in the blade performance?
You folks are great...thanks so much for your advice!!!
Thanks
Anne

[UHMNL]

Hi Anne,
Can't remember what spiral blades you got. The New spirals cut a lot more  straight and you will be in control of the blade.
You got some good advice from the people.
Regular plywood is not the best kind to use. The core is not solid enough and the bottom will splinter real easy. Most will use the Baltic Birch plywood.
FD Mike

[saggioculo]

Thanks Mike...I think I will start buying my wood online and just get the solid hardwood instead of plywood.  I still have a full sheet and a half of the pine plywood, but I'm sure I could find another use for it.  I got a request for a large coffin shaped jewerly box...quarter inch plywood will work just fine!

[UHMNL]

Here is a good place to buy hardwood.
www.heritagewood.com
FD Mike

[GrayBeard]

Good supplier for BB p'wood...Sloans.,..http://www.sloanswoodshop.com

~~~GB~~~

[geneVG]

I just looked at the wood prices on Heritagewood, and I can not believe the prices.  I just bought a piece of Red Oak 1/2 inch thick by 10 inches wide and 8 foot long for $17.00 at woodsmith in Des Moines Iowa, and the same piece from our local lumber yard is just a few dollars more.

gene

[bubbaloo158]

I guess I'm very lucky pertaining to my wood supplier.  My guy is out in the country - about 40 minutes from where I live.  I go there and tell him I want $50 worth of birch.  I then back up my truck and he begins to load it.  I usually leave there with 6-8 boards which are anywhere between 5-8 inches wide, 1 inch thick and usually 8 ft 6 inches in length

Sure... it takes a lot of work to dress this rough wood before I can use it.  But the way I see it is that I enjoy wood working and so this is all part of the fun and enjoyment I get from my hobby.  I have all the tools... why not use them?  Besides, if I go to any of my local box stores I would be paying almost $50 for ONE BOARD.

I love working with birch as it isn't too hard and yet it isn't too soft.  It also has some grain that really comes out when lacquer is applied.

Yep... I have a good thing going here.

Bobby

[Danny]

Just have to add my 2 cents as to why a blade wonders off the line.
A Dull blade....Speed to slow....Not enough tension....and wood selection.
Not being a Spiral user, but I know without lots of experience and know how
they will wonder. 

I am a believer that using a FD-UR #1 blade I WILL cut  straight line.
               Oh well....HoHoHo....  Danny  :+}