What do you use for sanding?

[Candi_D]

Hi Everyone!

I'm just getting started (as in my saw is due to arrive tomorrow), just thinking ahead and making sure I have all my bases covered. What do you use for sanding when needed? Is a dremel a good tool to use for small spaces? I have on and was thinking maybe I should pick up the flex shaft attachement?

Thanks for any advice!

[dgman]

Hey Candi, to start with, I always sand my blanks to finish grit. I use a random orbital sander. Depending on how rough the blank surface is I start with 100, then 150 then 220 grit. After you are done cutting, you only have to touch up with 220 grit. You can use the Dremel to sand the edges if needed. Once you find the correct blade and blade speed for the type and thickness of the wood, you shouldn't have to sand the edges. The same goes for the edges of your inside cuts. To touch up inside cuts you can use an assortment of needle files or nail files or sandpaper glued to small sticks.
There are a lot of other sanders available for scroll saw projects, but lets get started cutting first and see where it takes you.

[countryscroller]

I'm thinking about getting the Sand Flee some day. That's the next big purchase for the shop.

[Becky]

Take what dgman posted as gospel!  I learned this tip from him and it is well worth the time spent up-front.  I never cut before I sand.

At the other end, I really love a tip I learned from Steve - the sanding mop.  Here's a link to his video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95YOx1Zicqs .  You can make these yourself (or so I have read) but I just bought a kit here http://www.woodworkingshop.com/search.aspx?q=sanding+mop .  I use this on nearly every project and it is a real time saver for me.  It gets 99% of the fuzzies and softens the hard corners at the same time.  Just hang on to whatever you're sanding.  It's so sad to see your piece go flying across the shop!  At the time I bought mine, I didn't know what grit to get and went middle of the road.  I think when it is time to get replacement sandpaper I will probably get 220. 

One other tip I figured out myself is to pick up a single square foot of "granite" tile from the Lowes or Home Depot (just a couple bucks) and use your spray adhesive to attach a sheet of sandpaper to it.  Use it when you need to sand something but keep a nice flat side.  You can pick up additional tile squares for other grits or just peel off the wrong grit that's on there and put on the one you want. 

Your saw and mine will share a birthday.  Mine will be four years old tomorrow.   

[mlwmerk]

I agree with what Dgman says as well as Becky and the "Sandmop". 

After I sand initially as Dgman says, I cover each side of the blank with blue painters tape.  Then I use spray adhesive to attach the pattern to the blank. 

Of course after you fininsh cutting out the project you must remove the blue painters tape.  The tape seems to lubricate the blade as well as catch some of the hair left behind after cutting and the painter type tape comes of relatively easily. 

The painters tape tends to leave a minimum of residue.  However after removing the tape, I reassemble the project and hit it again on  both sides with the readom obrital sander with 220 grit.  This removes the tape residue and catched a lot of the remaining hair. 

A quick touch up with the small files is all that is necessary.

I prefer the blue (or green) PAINTERS tape to clear packing tape because it is easier to remove and leaves less adhesive residue.

Hope this helps.

Walt in CT. USA

[Dave W]

My Makita finishing sander handles 90% of my sanding needs.  My dremmel (craftsman actually) usually only gets brought out when I have an extensive round surface to work on, such as the outside of an ornament, or if I am making rings.  The dremmel gets a workout for profiling as well.  Like DG suggests, sanding ahead of time is far easier.  I sand the little internal cuts either by hand or with files if needed.  I do like to do a quick run across all of my longer edges with 220 to remove any leftover fuzzies, but that is probably more due to my meticulous nature than out of any real need

[IBMer]

I'd highly recommend Sand Paper ;-)   Joking of course.     Depending on what I'm sanding, I start with 120 grit and usually work my way up to 400.  If I'm working on something that requires very smooth work, I go up to 600 grit and sometimes even 1000 grit.    I use my orbital finish sander and 320 sandpaper for larger items, but it's hard to get into corners and edges with a machine. 

I've used the dremel, but typically it removes too much, too fast for my tastes.   I prefer hand sanding to get into the curves and sharp turns.  I bought some sandpaper designed to go into a scroll saw, but have yet to try it out.

I think you will be in good shape by visiting your local home improvement store and get a package each of 120, 220, 320 and 400 grit sandpaper.  Sometimes it helps to wrap the sandpaper around a dowel rod to get into curved parts.

I have projects that I sand all the way up to 24,000 grit, but these are items that will be worn or looked at incredibly close.

John

[flockshot]

I am new and still using a old cast iron saw with pin blades.
I cut two strips of cloth backed sandpaper about 3/8 inch wide and 2 1/2 inches long.  Then I put just a little 5 minute eposy on the back of one piece, lay a old saw blade in the glue and then put the back of the other piece of sandpaper on the epoxy/blade. Add some weight and in a few minutes I have a 2 sided sanding blade for interior work.  It works for me.