Blade Selection Example

[ripchief]

Here's an example of a situation where blade selection comes into play...I was just out in the shop cutting 3/4 inch cherry...I've previously had success using a #5 Flying Dutchman UR blade...I'd been experimenting with some FD-PSR blades (double reverse teeth) that I recently ordered from Mike...Great blades...I previously used the #1 FD-PSR on 1/8 inch walnut, and used #5 FD-PSR and #3 FD-PSR on some 3/4 inch poplar (#5 PSR for the major cuts, and #3 PSR for the more intricate cuts).

Anyway, getting back to the cherry, I started cutting with the newly acquired #5 PSR blades...The cuts were slower than the UR blades for the obvious reason that the PSR blades aren't as aggressive as the UR blades...The problem came when the #5 PSR blades would break while pivoting to make the tight inside corners...After this happened a couple of times, I switched back to the #5 UR blade and finished cutting the 3/4 inch cherry without further issue...The moral of this lesson is that the blade number itself can't be used as an indication of what to use for a particular situation...Although the same sized blade from the same manufacturer was used, the difference in tooth geometry was a factor...I suppose the PSR might have worked just as well as the UR blade, if I had tweaked either my technique, the saw setup, or both.

Anybody else have any similar experiences or thoughts on how I might have been better able to use the #5 PSR blade in this situation???

[UHMNL]

The UR is a skip tooth blade and PSR is a double tooth blade.
A skip tooth is more aggressive as a double tooth blade.
To make turns with a double tooth blade, maybe it would help to increase the speed.
FD Mike

[Dustyknees]

I've been using the PSR blades for a long time and love them. I got some UR just recently and am having fits with them in thinner wood. Very aggressive blades,have to really watch what I do. They are great for leaving no fuzz on the backside of the wood though. I have always been a thicker wood kinda guy,1/2 to 3/4 stock, but have gotten into doing finer fretwork on the 1/4 inch wood for portrait patterns..whew,big learning curve. I have some #5 UR for some thick red oak I have,will post results as I cut. I use a whetstone on the back corners of all my blades though, makes cornering much smoother..Jon

[ripchief]

I did an experiment from Mike's response...I ran with the exact same setup as before (#5 PSR running at 3/4 saw speed), but this time I used 3/4 inch pine, and the pivot turns came out great...I then shifted back to the cherry, but as Mike stated, I bumped up the saw speed to FULL, and the #5 PSR took the turns just fine.

One thing to add to the "technique tool box" is that greater speed is needed for less aggressive blade geometries...Similarly, greater speed is needed for harder woods than softer woods, while using the same blade geometry for both pieces of wood.

As Dusty stated, UR blades in thinner stock need a little extra caution...One thing that I learned to help me with this is to use a smaller sized UR blade than what the normal "guidelines" state to use...I normally limit #5 UR blades to 3/4 inch or larger...I've used the #3 UR on as thin as 1/8 inch...That thin of material with that blade takes almost NO feed pressure at all...This is actually where, at least in my case, shifting to a less aggressive blade helps to maintain control.

[boxmaker]

All excellent information, this proves to any one starting out you really need to try a few dozen of different blades to see what works for you with the type of cutting you do. I tend to cut a lot of thick wood for my boxes 3/4" to 1" and I have learned this, if I am cutting a simple oval box in thick wood I will use a skip tooth blade because it is aggressive and cuts fast. On the other hand if I am cutting a pattern with a little more detail I will use a double tooth, with this blade I tend to have more control, because it does cut slower. I very seldom use reverse tooth on my thick wood because for me they tend to lift the piece off of the table, and the first time I pinched my finger between the piece of wood and the table that was it for me on reverse blades for thick wood. I do use reverse for my box tops, it saves a lot of sanding. I think this is a great topic thanks for sharing and allowing me to ramble.

[ChaplainRon]

Who came up with the names for these blades? UR PSR FD

I understand skip tooth double tooth, reverse tooth, spiral. I even get the numbers indicating the diameter of the blade.

What do the letters indicate?

[J,Hamilton]

The letters are for blade style identification. FD is for the Flying Dutchman blade manufacturer. UR is ultra reverse blades and PSR is Penguin Silver Reverse.

Many here utilize FD blades and we refer to them by the subcatagory they come from. Here is a link to help you in this quest of the blade description.

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

[Russ C]

Different manufactures sometimes have different names for there blades and the sizes are not the exact same . UR PSR FD describe blades from Flying Dutchman like J,Hamilton said. His link will take you to the catalog page for blades. 

[Judy Hunter]

I have also noticed 2/0 blades from different companies  do not cut the same kerf even though they say .024 diameter.

[ChuckD]

I have four of these on my bench top.  One of them is only junk blades (Those not FD blades) that I got while exploring.  They are used by my Bride and the Grandkids went they want to cut.  Mostly 3/4 inch pine.  When the tube is empty it is moved to the "good side".  They are all different sizes and types and experience has taught me which to use and when.  One of them (and soon another) is only spirals. 

[tvman44]

Chuck would you have a pattern for that stand to hold the blade tubes?

[ChuckD]

Chuck would you have a pattern for that stand to hold the blade tubes?

It is not at all difficult. Here is a close-up (if you will pardon the poor picture). As you can see the holes drilled are slightly larger than the tube and then you increase the edge of the hole out at an upward angle.  If you notice the holes for the tubes are offset of each other so you have room for each without using a wide board.  Put the drilled and cut boards together with a span top and bottom then attach to a wide base for stability.  I make them big enough to hold 12 tubes but you can do as many as you like.
Thanks for asking.