Using Sprial Blades.... :+}

[Danny]

Having tried and failed with spirals I was wondering.  Is there a video or video's out there that shows the correct procedures with using them?  Maybe if I seen someone
actually using one I might get a better outlook on them.  Thanks.... Danny  :+}

[Billy in Va]

I had the same experience with spirals.  The blades I tried were of the "inferior quality" and I still have some. I have tried giving those cheap blades away and no one wants them.  Next time I order from Mike, I plan to get a sample pack of spirals to try.  Glad you asked that question, maybe there is more information available.

[Keefie]

I too failed miserably with spirals so if there is a video then I for one would be watching it.

[SheGold]

Add me to the failure category... I guess I'm used to turning my project and its hard to change.. I have some of Mikes spirals and I still had trouble.. Could be operator errors LOL... Good luck on learning them and if you get that tutorial please share it... Sheila

[Old Crow]

I use FD Spiral blades from Mike almost exclusively and have never had a problem both on my old Craftsman 16" and now on my Delta 20". I keep a good "High C" tension on the blade, medium or a little better speed and let the blade do the cutting, trying not to push too much. Works for me!
My two cents for what it is worth.
Don R

[GrayBeard]

Don hit it right on the mark!

Mount your spiral carefully.

Plenty of tension...I 'run in' the blade with no cutting for about 10 seconds before I start cutting and often will re-set the blade and tighten up the tension some more.

Keep the saw speed as fast as you can work with,,,on my DW788 I run at about 75% speed.

Once you start to cut DO NOT PUSH the workpiece...just GUIDE it! As always and most important with spirals...Let the blade do the work. Gently moving the workpiece at all times! You will notice that it will cut a bit differently in different directions and I cannot explain why but it just seems that it does for me!

Another important concept is the wood itself. Because the spiral is harder to control having some additional thickness is essential. Trying to cut a single layer of 1/8" BB or even 5/8" Blue Pine is a virtual impossibility if you want to control the cuts! My minimum is 3/8" of BB, whether it is 3- 1/8" or 1/4" plus a 1/8" backer.

You are going to get 'fuzzies' and there is no way around it so assume that your bottom piece MAY be a 'throw-away'. I have been fortunate that almost every piece I have cut using spirals I have been able to sand and file away the fuzzies and the piece was usable.

My wood is usually prepared by sanding to 220 grit on the face, stacking the pieces and using blue tape to hold the stack, pattern applied directly to the top piece using 3M 77 spray adhesive and then covering the pattern area with packing tape.

As I am cutting the piece I drill 20 -25 pilot holes and cut those out, sand the BACK side with the ROS and then drill another group of holes and carry on. This also allows me to keep track of how many cuts there were...just my habit!

I have not researched the video thing but when I went to the SAW expo in Springfield there was a seminar on Spiral usage. I attended it and walked out after 15 minutes. I truly felt I could have done a better job of doing the presentation than the guy actually doing it. Not bragging but I felt he just didn't give enough information of a basic nature.

I hope this helps. If you take your time and follow these steps you should be able to master the spiral...portraits are simply a piece of cake with them.

~~~GrayBeard~~~

One more thing!  Do not be shocked if you feel yourself changing blades more often!  You MUST keep a good fresh blade in the saw!
My blade of choice is the FD New Spiral #2/0.

[crusty59]

I totally agree with GrayBeard. I like working with spirals, they do takes some practice. I found the same thing, that you need to stack cut or work with wood a little thinker. I have had good luck sanding the fuzzies after I'm done cutting but I like the idea of cutting some and then sanding the cut some more and so on.

[jrpeteo]

I also have been using the "new spiral" and haveing good luck. I had trouble clamping them at first, because they don't have much of a flat spot. I also sometimes forget that I can go sideways and backwords, which is great when doing portrait type stuff.
Pete

[Mainewoods]

+1 on what GB said!  Good tension, good speed, slow cut!  They WILL take getting used to, as they DO NOT handle the same as flat blades!  I use the FD New Spiral 2/0 as well.  Almost strictly use them on portrait work.  Otherwise I use the FD Ultra Reverse blades.  I made a Marine Corps plaque for my brother-in-law recently, and ended up cutting the "Semper Fidelis" over the eagle's head with a spiral.  The letters were 3/32" tall, and I couldn't get them to look right with the URs. 

[DWSudekum]

Using spirals is an art, however once you get used to how they cut there are cuts that before you would use a flat blade now you will be like why use a flat blade a spiral will cut this much easier.  I find that I have to unwind the ends about 1 inch so that my blade will fit easier in the guides.  I also find that they cut real thick woods easier than flat blades without the tendency to curve and bow dutting the cut.   High tension, light feed pressure and practice are the key.  In my opinion that is


DW

[Barry]

It seems with spirals and flat blades it all depends on which you start with.   That would suggest that it is a practice issue.  But personally I have tried spirals in the past and I just can't get comfortable with them.

Spirals are more aggressive.  So it sort of defeats the purpose for using them which is tight and quick turns.  I tend to break a lot more wood even when I am stack cutting.

The other problem, for me, is I HATE fuzzys.  I seem to get a lot more when I use spirals.  That said, I have seen some amazing portraits cut with spirals, so they have their place for scrollers.  I scroll to relax and I can't relax much (yet?) using spirals.

Danny, I feel your pain.

Barry

[julief]

Everything GB said is on the mark.  I also use the FD new spiral 2/0.  What I might suggest to those having difficulty with them is to use a practice board with some lines on it and have a go.  Straight, wavy, zigzag - whatever.  I think the hardest part of using them is the pause.  When using a flat blade, you can pause and nothing happens.  When you pause with a spiral, it still cuts because there are teeth all around.  A foot switch is a must for me when using spiral blades.  Fast motor - slow speed.

[thumbs]

spiral blades come from THE DARK SIDE of the force--the power is strong with the flat blade--can't remember where I heard that, either Luke Skywalker or Buzz Lightyear--Richard

[troy_curtis]

Funny you should have a post on them I was just coming on to say how much I love spiral blades. Maybe I am just lucky, but I find them so darn easy to use. Almost all my work now is done with them. I do find that 2 things really help with them. #1 try not to stop and restart on a straight line. #2 if possible make a continuous cut from beginning to end. I guess they are pretty much the same concept, but when I work with my spiral blades it has been getting easier and better. Love them!

[troy_curtis]

Graybeard has a whole list of perfect suggestions. I do most all that he has said, guess it just came to me naturally. Hope you all get the hang of it.