Thin Cuts Breaking

[Toneman]

I have been having a problem with long, thin cuts breaking, especially at back of cut. I have only been scrolling since March, so, I am still experimenting with blades and wood and techiques. I was cutting a golfer pattern out of 1/2" baltic berch ply, using a #3 Olson regular blade(no rev or skip), and the back of the golf club broke off. I have had this happen on several projects. Now, am I using the wrong blade or wood? (running about 90% speed)? I use blue painters tape to secure pattern.

Tony,aka,Toneman

[scrollgirl]

I am thinking that it is the quality of the wood.  Many plywood types have voids in them if they aren't of really high quality and those of course would weaken the pieces - especially the smaller pieces like the golf club.  Check the wood and let us know.

Sheila

[dgman]

Hey Tony, I don't know if you are doing anything wrong, but when I'm doing delicate cuts, I will slow the saw speed down to about 50% or less. Also I tend to keep a finger close to the blade on the thin cuts so it will not move around. I know that some folks are afraid to keep a finger close to the blade, but it is almost impossible to cut yourself with a scroll saw blade especially with an Olson blade.
On delicate cuts, keep the fallouts in place to help support the surrounding pieces.
You might try sandwiching the piece with some 1/8" Baltic birch plywood to help support the piece also.

[scrollgirl]

You know, In readgin dgman's reply it also made me think.  For delicate pieces, I use a "zero clearance overlay" for my scroll saw table.  It helps support the piece from the underside.  I have an article that shows how to make a cheap and easy one on my site here:

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/articles/scroll-saw-zero-clearance

This may help, too.

Good luck! Sheila

[Toneman]

Sheila, your zero clearance plate makes a lot of since! I am definately going to make one and give it a try! Also, the wood may be the problem also. I purchased it from Home Depot, and even though it is baltic birch, it may be low grade. I am going to order some good scrolling wood via the internet for my next projects, and I will slow my blade down and leave my fall outs in and work a little closer to the blade.LOL Thank ya'll!

Tony,aka,Toneman

[Billy in Va]

I usually only need a zero clearance insert for a short time and one or two frets.  I generally just grab an old playing card and use it for a a few cuts.

[ChuckD]

I don't use a "Zero Clearance" insert that much on my saw. I have made a couple from thin plastic that fits the circle on my Hegner.  The reason for not using it that much is trying to find the hole to put the blades thru.  Most of the time I will just stick a piece of Masking tape across the hole and just push the blade thru.  Works for a short time and that is the idea.
Good idea Sheila

[GrayBeard]

When doing portraits and getting into some of the very fine details with Spiral blades this becomes a problem.
I make a "0" tolerance like Sheila recommends and I still always put a piece of 1/8" BB ply on the bottom of my 'stack' just for support.
With the spiral blade I have to keep the speed in the upper range just to keep the 'staggered' teeth from grabbing the wood fibers and tearing.

Another thing I do every time I start a portrait is CHECK that the BLADE is SQUARE to the table!!!

~~~GB~~~

[cdrover(Clyde)]

For O- clearance I use these small magnetic advertising thingies that show up every now and then. They are about the size of a business card and all I do is cut to the middle that gives me the O- clearance I sometimes need. I usually only use one a few times and then dispose of it. Where it is a magnet I have several stuck to the side of my saw ready to go. No need to drill holes and just lay it aside when not in use.

[MOONIE]

When doing multiple 'thin' cuts, I use 'invisible tape' to hold everythig together.  It stops fall out, too.  I've used the tape on 1/8, 1/14 and 3/8 inch BB ply. I fold over a corner whch it makes it easy to pull off.

[Barry]

Hi Tony-

You have already received a lot of good advice.  Two things that I always recommend to people are stack cutting and slowing down.  Stack cutting will support those really delicate cuts. Also, try and leave the cutouts in place for support.  When you watch scroll saw videos you see people crank up the speed and every new scroller tries to copy that (I did the same thing).  Slow down your speed, you will have more control and the blade won't be as aggresive, you should have less tear out.  As you get more comfortable the speed will come.  I still slow the blade way down for many delicate cuts.  Good luck.

Barry

PS - Shelia made a great point.  Don't scrimp on the plywood.  Good baltic birch ply will have a lot fewer voids and that is good for your blood pressure. 

[Toneman]

Thank all of ya'll for your good advice  and help! This is the very reason I like this forum; everyone is very supportive and willing to take their time to help and explain!

Tony,aka,Toneman