Scroll Saw Sanding

[troy_curtis]

I just followed a link from another post (clocks) and while surfing that website I ended up on this page http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_sanders.htm  It is a sander that goes where your blade goes. This is the perfect solution to sanding some of them hard to reach spots on any project. I know many of you pros might have known this...but for a noob like me this was a fantastic find!

[dgman]

My number one goal in cutting is to eliminate as much sanding as possible. Once you learn to cut properly, you should have very little sanding to do. Once you are able to use plain end blades you will be be able to use finer blades that leave a smoother cut. Work on splitting the line rather than cutting to the line then sand to the line. When cutting, if you go off the line, make a gradual return to the line rather than an abrupt return to the line. It will lessen the amount of sanding. If the drift off of the line does not show, it is not a mistake!

[troy_curtis]

Great suggestions. I will be getting those new blades soon. Just need to figure out how to put blade adapters on. Thanks for your help.

[mlwmerk]

The sandpaper scroll saw devices are one of those things you buy once and then never buy again. 

I've tried them and they really do not work well at all.  Several shreded and all wore out, IMHO prematurely - even at slow speed.  I put them away and never used them again. 

The advice about using small blades and practice cutting on the line is excellent. 

Walt in CT

[Mainewoods]

Lots of different tried and tested (and usually cheaper) ways to get rid of the fuzzies, as well as sand down high or uneven spots on your lines.  Like Dan said, smooth accurate cutting eliminates most sanding, but when you do need to get in there and clean things up a bit, a few inexpensive items can be more helpful and last longer than those scroll saw sanders. 

Emery boards ("borrow" some from the Mrs if you don't want to be seen purchasing some!)
X-acto knife (great for trimming off that stubborn little fuzzy that just won't come off)
Needle files (come in a variety of shapes and can get into some very tight areas)
Sandpaper cut into narrow strips (work good for minor touch ups)
Torch (butane or propane - If you already have one, it's very effective at removing small fuzzies.  The key is to keep it moving, otherwise you'll scorch/burn the wood or even start a fire)

I've never tried the scroll saw sanders, but I've also never read anything positive about them from someone who had put them to the test.  They just seem like a gimmick to me.  My 2C!

Hope this is helpful!

[troy_curtis]

ok...see that is what I love about this site. So much good advice and so easy to learn new things. Thanks Mainwoods for the list of things to do. I am working on my smooth cutting skills...but until I get a bit better I will try some of these other things. I might get one small pack of the sanding blades just so I have an idea. If I do I will post my review. Thanks again all for the super advice. This hobby would be less fun if it were not for this site.

[Rapid Roger]

A cheaper way to do the sanding belts for the saw is to cut strips of the desired grit sand paper to 1/2" +/-  x 5" long. Fold the strip in half long ways so you get a piece 1/4" by 5" long and install in the saw just like a blade. You will have sand paper on each side to use.
 This only works with pin less clamps however. 

Rog

[jscott2]

Rog,

Tried the paper idea on my saw (Delta 40-690) and found the paper-backed sandpaper ripped very easily.  Cloth-backed paper might hold up better.

Jim

[MOONIE]

I also bought the sanders and don't use them. I sand the entire back of the project with 220 or 320 sand paper and then brush away the fuzzies with a toothbrush.  You'd be surprised how great this works.  Sometimes I go around all the edges with a toothpick and brush again. Quick and easy.   Toothpicks will go in the tinyest frets and brushing finishes off the fuzz. 

[troy_curtis]

The brushes and toothpicks sound good. Ive been using the floss picks made of plastic. Will add the brushes to the list. Thanks all for the advice.

[lvman1953]

I found the ideas here to be extraordinary for what I'm doing. I finally have people I can talk to about my scroll saw issues. Thanks guys!

[lvman1953]

I hollow out discarded books and so far I am using a 7 tpi by Olson and I can get average 5 books cut. Are there any pinned 5" blades with a finer cut/teeth that will also do this job? I pin nail 1/8" hardboard to each side of the bundled pages, drill a hole and then cut. Then I end up sanding the edges.
lvman1953

[Dakota Saw Dust]

Two suggestions come to mind.  First, I've found the tighter the "stack" the less fuzzes. i personally use a tack/nail and clinch the point over on a steel plate. In my day, clout nails were available and the pressure exerted on a joint was measured in tons. They were softer steel with a blunt point which made it easy to peen over. Nail often no closer than 3/16" to the cut line in the waste [to avoid cutting a nail].  Second, you might consider a Flying Dutchman blade. Not just for the name but because of tooth count. I'm looking at a chart for FD-ultra Reverse which list 12 tpi for #7 and
15 tpi for #5.  Good luck Brian

[robroy865]

I found a way to mount sandpaper in the scroll saw without it ripping and it works quite well. I have a piece of tin and cut it into strips as long as the blade and around 5mm thick. Then I fold a 11mm thick strip of sandpaper in half and with spray-glue stick it around the strip of tin - leaving a few mm on each end to mount the tin in the clade clamps. I made quite a lot at once in different grits up to 1200.

This works perfectly for getting into the very narrow and detailed parts to remove fuzzies on any project. But I mostly use the fine grit paper to get gear teeth extremely smooth for making a clock.

It is also very cheap and easy to make/replace.