Spiral Blades & Top Feeding

[ShadowB6]

I'm presently working on a project that Grampa so graciously uploaded when I requested a pattern of a pointer dog. (Thank you Again Grampa) The person who asked me for this also wanted it as large as I could make it. So it is 18"x22". A bit large for a 21" saw. So I'm thinking, what a great opportunity to try my spiral blades that have been sitting there for a long time. WOW, I love using them. I used a #3 spiral blade on 1/4" baltic birch. Lots of fuzzies on the bottom side but nothing that several minutes of a detail sander and a good mini rasp couldn't take care of.

So with this opportunity to try something new I figured why not try top feeding also. Argh, not as successful. Though it meant I didn't have to move my large piece of birch as much, I had difficulty in getting the blade to lock in. It either kept popping out of the blade holder or I actually broke a few blades. This is not to say I won't try top feeding again, but I did get somewhat frustrated and reverted back to bottom feeding to finish the project. But it was fun to try something new.

[scrollingdesigns]

Spiral blades are great to work with if I have cuts that don't require a lot if intricate cutting, I have ruined a few pieces because I zigged when I should have zagged and the spiral blade just knows that if it comes in contact with wood, cut it. I do like using them and they do require a lot less movement of the work piece but if you are not real steady with your hands they can cause you grief. I find that for most of my cutting I am using either a #3 or #5 reverse tooth. For me, they make smoother cuts and less fraying on the back side of the work.
Everyone has their own opinion so I say, try it, if you like it, keep doing it. I guess that could apply to a lot more than spiral blades to.
Have a great day, I plan to.

[GrayBeard]

Top feeding Spiral blades is in my opinion NOT advisable!
Remembering that the teeth are all the way around the blade it will not give you any "wiggle" room to allow the blade to go through the wood and can 'hang up'.
If the blades are slipping out of the blade clamp you are not getting it to clamp on a 'flat' and are most likely catching it on a 'spiral' twist and it will not hold.
Try taking a light weight hammer and flattening the bottom end of the blade before clamping it. As with all blades it is advisable to clean the ends with a solvent to get rid of any residual oil on the blades from manufacture.

To eliminate the 'fuzzies' I always stack cut at least two thicknesses of stock and usually three or four if I am using 1/8" material.

Keep at them! They are a valuable tool for just what you did...oversize projects on a smaller saw.


~~~GB~~~

Proud User of FD New Spiral 2/0 Blades!

[ShadowB6]

Thanks for the great advice Graybeard. I think that's the first thing I'll do is to hammer the bottom end of the blade until it's flat. I never even thought of trying that.

[GrayBeard]

Gently! Gently! Gently!

If you pound too hard you will take the 'temper' out of the metal and it will fail and give you a real thrill when it breaks in mid stroke!

Just lightly tap it until you get some of the 'kink' out!

~~~GB~~~