Question from a beginner

[math2010]

Hi everybody!
I'm really new in the "scroll saw world"!

I bought the blades from Mike's Workshop (Nice Guy!!!, Great Service!!!). It's a kind of beginner package with few blades type (No3 and No5).

I would like to know what do you use to cut Pine 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch...
I tried de FD-P No5 and the FD-SR No5. It works, but it took me like one hour to cut one side of a 3D chess piece. I don't go very fast because I'm really afraid of breaking a blade, but the blade cut really slow and if I push to hard, the blade seems to curve... And it's very hard to turn corner (they're not round... more square). I tried different speed, but my saw cannot go faster than 1300-1500 rpm, and at 800 rpm, it didn't really cut the 1.5 inch piece.

Do you have some advice?

Thank you!

Mathieu
P.S.: Sorry for my english, that's not my first language...

[Russ C]

1.5 inch wood is pretty thick and depending on the brand of saw, will cut slow. But it sounds like to me you didn't have enough tension on the blade. Set the tension so that the blade does not flex more than 1/8" side to side or front to back. The FD-P No5 should cut 1.5 inch pine well and the FD-UR No. 5 should work well also.  

[Sawdust Dave]

Welcome to the forum Mathieu!! I can't add anything to what Russ said except  We'd love to see your chess pieces when they are finished. (Also, your english is very good )

[math2010]

Thanks for the informations!

The weird thing is that I can't set the tension on my saw. The way it works is that I place the blade on the bottom and the top, and after I push a handle to give tension to the blade. But there is just one position... I looked everywhere and I read the instruction manual and it seems impossible to change the tension... It probably explain why I got a great deal on it at the Boxing Day 

But I looked to what you said and when the saw is stopped, the blade flex less then 1/8" side to side or front to back. So I guess the tension is ok. Maybe I need to practice more and try to push a bit more...

To Sawdust Dave: Thanks! And before posting my chess pieces, I'll practice a lot, because until now, it doesn't look like it suppose to... lol

[dgman]

Hey Mathieu, For 1.5 inch pine you might need to go with a #7. If you are new to the scroll saw, you might want to practice on some 3/4" pine first. 1.5 inch is a bit ambitious for a beginner.
Oh by the way, Welcome to the forum!

[CNLNC]

Just in case you haven't tried this. Before pushing the handle down to apply tension, trying turning it clockwise and then pushing it down. You can even try turning it clockwise after you push it down to see if that tightens your balde.

Just a thought.

[tux_linux]

Hey Mathieu!

Welcome. Where do you live?

Which saw is it? someone in here might know how to set the blade tension.

regards
Torsten

[julief]

Mathieu,  I'm Julie from Texas.  Welcome to the forum.  You do not need to use a reverse tooth blade on 3-D pieces.  The purpose of these blades is to give you a clean cut on the bottom.  Since your piece is "inside" the block of wood, the reverse teeth makes it a little harder to keep the piece down while you are cutting.  I wouldn't use anything smaller than a #5 on a piece that thick but you know what your turns look like.  If they are tight turns use the smallest blade possible - which is probably the #5.  If they are curvy, easy turns - go with a #7.

[math2010]

Thanks everybody!

I'm living near Montreal (Canada).

The scroll saw is a Mastercraft from Canadian Tire:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443299920&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672969&bmUID=1297169635460&bmLocale=fr_CA

[cameronj]

Hi Mathieu,
Welcome to the group from a fellow Canadian...I live in London, Ont.  I agree with Julie...don't use a reverse tooth blade on 3D cuts.  I tried that with the first 3D I did using walnut.   Boy, did the wood jump up and down.   Jim

[UHMNL]

Hi Mathieu,
Diana Thompson who designs a lot of compound patterns, likes to use the FD-Polar numbers 5 and 7, mostly the # 5. You do not need a blade with reverse teeth. The pieces what have the fuzz on it are thrown away anyway.
Have good tension, the blade should not move sideways more than 1/8". Keep good speed and do not push too hard into the blade or it will start cutting with a bevel. Let the blade do the cutting.
FD Mike

[math2010]

Thanks everybody for your advices.

I'll keep all your informations in mind!