wood chipping during cuts...

[Papahawg]

I'm sure some of you have run into this problem, I have been scrolling off and on for 6 months and have only made 3 portraits. Every time I make a portrait the wood will chip at the end of a point. For example, I may have a V shape cut and at the point of the V the wood will chip off. My wife says you really don't notice it. I always reply, "I" notice it!!

I use 1/4" oak or birch plywood. If you know what my problem is please feel free to knock me on the head and straighten me out!!

I must be doing something wrong, I've searched all over for the answer and find nothing. Is it the wood I'm using? What wood do others use...okay now I'm just spinning around in circles again.... I"ll wait for some answers.. lol

thanks for any help

Mike

[Wandascroller]

Hi Papa
I know what you are describing.
Plywood tends to chip on the "grain" sometimes.
Is your blade worn when this happens?
A new blade may help.
What sort of blades are you using?

[Gary]

Mike,
    One thing to check is that the blade hole on your table isn't to big. Many scrollers put a piece of plexiglass or plywood on top of the table with just enough clearance to insert the blade. It gives the wood much better support. Since I did this my breakouts dropped 75 percent.....Gary

[Russ C]

Both of the other answers are great things to try to help correct the problem. I know I have had problems with oak plywood but not with Baltic Birch. The only other thing I can add is when you come to the point of the V try to slow down and not push the wood as hard. 

[indiana_jones765]

hi mike, i do not have that problem, i use flying dutchman, ultra reverse #5 and they work great because the lower teeth are reversed and cut smooth on the bottom side of the wood. and one more thing, make sure your blade is 90 degrees from your table, side to side, and front to back. i hope this helps. and gary has a good point about using a thin board on top of your table. jim

[kardar2]

I also have that problem I stay away from BB just for that reason They say DON'T buy BB from the big box stores they are lower quality go to a shop that sells the top Quality BB

[Russ C]

Great idea about checking the blade alinement indiana_jones765. That might be true about the big box stores BB kardar2, but I buy mine from Sloans Woodshop and have had no problems. They carry Russian and Finland BB.
http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htm

[cherie]

I find that using a reverse blade usually helps with chip out.  I also found not to run the machine to fast or try cutting to the corner, back it up, and go back in, it is hard for me to explain, but Steve has a puzzle pattern that calls for perfect v's you might say.  You can find it on the blog.

[MadHatter]

I also have had the similar problem. Majority of the wood I use is baltic birch. I've notice though that the chipping occurs if I tend to rush or push the wood to fast, but slowing down does help. I also use flying dutchman blades from mikesworkshop.com.

[jim stiek]

if you are using spiral blades try the new spiral from the dutchman (mike) it cuts much better than any spiral that I have ever used

[keidiag]

I think this is a problem we all have. There have been a lot of good suggestions on how to minimize the chipping. Here's my 2 cents worth...

On 1/4" ply switch to a #1 blade. The #5 blade is much too coarse to cut 1/4" thick. I use the FD Ultra reverse. Occasionally I will switch to a Jewelers blade #4/0 for very intricate cuts.

I made an adjustable zero tolerance table that sticks to my Dewalt table with magnets. I'll post some photos when we are able to, a picture is worth a thousand words...

Using both of these methods has eliminated the breakout that I used to get...even on Oak ply.

Happy scrolling...Keith

[SawDust]

I always get 5 ply for my 1/4" projects.  I can only find 3 ply in the box stores and I have had all kinds of problems with them.  Sloan's is where I get my supply of plywood.

[Papahawg]

Hi and thanks for all the replies...

@Wandascroller, I always put in a new blade when I start and change when I feel and back pressure. I tend to use spiral blades, I personally feel more in control of the cut. When I use regular blades I find it hard to make clean turns. But, will try regular blades and see. Thanks

@Gary, The hole on top does not seem to be to big, although that was a good point and I can see where a big hole would/could make the piece jump or vibrate just enough to perhaps chip the wood. Thanks

@Russ[C],  Both the oak and BB chip on me   I do go slow, even on straight lines. Thanks

@indiana_jones765, Blade alignment, I always check... excellent point. I purchased a used 788 1st generation, and the person had a lot of blades that came with it... all blades were out of the package so I do not know who made them. I will purchase new blades from FD to see if they are different from what I currently have. Thanks

@kardar2, I have been buying from sorta BB store called Menards, I find the wood there to be compatible to other specialty stores.. But, I will try the specialty stores again. Thanks
 
@cherie, I've tried various speeds with same results... chip chip chip. I don't think my speed is bad, I'm going to try FD blades and different wood supplier. Thanks

@MadHatter, I am a retired pipefitter/welder, I've learned from past experience to let the blade do the cutting, I never rush or push the wood into the blade, you only get crooked cuts, worn blades or break the blades. This holds true with any type of blade cutting be it wood, metal, plastic.. etc.  Thanks

@jim stiek, I do use spiral blades but will try regular blades and see if it makes a difference. Thanks

Thanks for all this great suggestions, it seems I have tried most if not all already, but I WILL try them all again. I do have more experience now with the scrollsaw, so new FD blades, better wood from specialty stores, and lastly... instead of county music, I'll switch back to my oldies... you never know.

Mike

[cherie]

If I may ask, where do you buy your wood supply?