Using "Painters Tape" --OR NOT-- :+}

[Danny]

Hi Barry.  I am glad at least one other person finds the Packing Tape to be like you said.
Don't know the brand right off hand, but when I worked as a PRINTER we printed labels on a brand named STARLINER for ever.  Stationary stores do carry this. 

I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT ....GREAT CUTTING AND SUPER HAPPY TIMES since I started using this method.   

All I do is like normal.  Sand the wood blank to 220.  Basically wipe the dust off and apply the pattern.  PIECE OF CAKE....   Danny  :+}

[GrayBeard]

There are many sources online for LABELS that you can research for the 'full sheet labels'. They are most often 8 1/2 X 11 sheets and will go through the average printer/copier with no problems.
They also usually come in either glossy or matte finish.

Google...<labels, inkjet, full sheet>

~~~Graybeard~~~

[Judy Hunter]

What is the purpose of the packing tape? I tried the contact paper method for the first time and it seems to be working great.  Only next time I will use colored so won't miss any small bits as with the clear.

[Danny]

Good :-) Morning Judy and All....  Have read MANY posts saying the Packing Tape is
there to LUBRICATE the blade.  I just haven't ever got into a habit of using it for
various reasons.  I don't have any problems with the way I do it, so....I HAPPY.  :+}

[Joe Scroller]

I wish you could but permanent templates when you order plans for things.
If you could just trace the templates onto the wood we wouldn't have to glue them.
Mine always slip when I use the spray adhesives and then you have to sand the glue residue off.
A mess!

[Judy Hunter]

I have used the contact paper several times now and I think it is WONDERFUL! and cheap
I lay my blank on the back side of the contact paper, cut around it with a craft knife.
Make sure the wood has no dust on it. I just wipe a couple of times with my hands.
then peel the backing off the contact paper and stick it to the wood blank.
I cut roughly around the pattern, put it in the waste basket upside down and spray it well with spray adhesive.
Take it out and stick it to the contact paper. Rub or roll it down well. I use a brayer.
So far, after cutting the pattern and contact paper come off in one piece.
I lay the cutting flat on a rubber mat and gently sand front and back.

[Danny]

Hi Joe.  Pleasure to meet yas....  You brought back memories of Long, Long Ago when I first started Scrolling.  Didn't know any better and started off of applying a piece of Carbon paper on blank and pattern on that and being careful TRACING THE LINES OF THE PATTERN.  Well the SIMPLE PATTERNS weren't much problem, but the more complicated ones just took WAY TO LONG.  Graduated UP when I joined this FORUM.  Read Judys method and I am for using the 8.5x11 sheets of Adheshive back paper which is sold at Staples or Office Depot or bought on the Web.  Later....  Danny  :+}

[Joe Scroller]

Hi Danny and Judy,

Thanks for the tip(s).. I'll go buy some and give it a try.
I hate that spray glue.

What I meant before was I wish they sold pre-cut plastic or whatever templates
that you could re-use and simply trace onto your wood.
Wouldn't that be a lot better??

Anyhow I'll buy some label paper today.
Thanks
Joe

[sullycroller]

I quit useing packing tape years ago and went to the Glad "Press and Seal" for about a year but now i just spray the back of my patterns with Loctite spray adhesive and it works great. I still use the clear tape to lube the blade but it also helps hold the paper together for them tight cuts.

sully

[overfifty]

Hi Danny. I'm a little thick at the best of times so bear with me. I purchased a small roll of scroll saw paper but am slightly mystified as to how to run it through the printer as it's sticky-one-side. I tried applying some wax paper on the back but the printer won't accept it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Barry.

[overfifty]

Closer inspection reveals that there is a thin protective layer over the adhesive back but as it's rolled over itself on the adhesive back it's quite sticky also, so much so it gums up the printer. I'll try and figure some way to use it. Thanks, Barry.

[tbolt]

I use clear tape over my patterns duck brand and smooth it out with the edge of an old credit card don't have trouble with sawdust under the tape

[overfifty]

I'll certainly give that a try. Sounds like an effective way of sealing the edges. Thank you, Barry.

[Malistar22]

Has anyone tried this way? I have been really tempted to try it, since I do have access to a laser printer.

Edit: Forget it. I just did more research on Xylene and it's too toxic to use, IMO. What it does is move the toner ink from the laser printer to the wood, but the same can be done using a hot iron, since that's how laser printers transfer the toner anyway (via heat). So please, don't use Xylene. I'm leaving this post here for reference only. However, I think I'm going to try an iron this weekend! Stay tuned!

[ChuckD]

Danny, Do you do any stack cutting?  That is one of the main reasons I like tape is to hold the stack together.  When I get some more air brads I will use them too.  Also with the tape I can spray the glue on the pattern and right then apply it to the taped wood.  Between the tape on tight and the sprayed pattern I never have a problem with sawdust.