Brad Nailer

[ToverT]

I'm thinking of buying a small brad nailer to make picture frames.  I'm looking for an electric one, I don't have or want a compressor and think I need only something light weight.  I'll only be using it for picture frames, I'm not much of a carpenter.

Any recommendations?  What size braid nail should I be sure it handles to make simple frames.

Thanks!
Tommy T

[dirtrider73068]

Just remember the bigger the number for the brads the smaller the brad nail will be so for say 18 gauge brad is bigger than say a 23 gauge. I don't know much about electric ones, but will need to see how powerful they are in how deep they will shot the nails in, and pending what kind of wood you are going to use.

[king310]

Stanley makes one!

[chelcass]

Lowes and Home Depot and most any other Big box store carries them. Craftsman has a 18 gauge one for 49.99.  We bought our at HD and I think we paid around 70.00 not sure.  Pneumatic is the best and you can always pick up a second hand or inexpensive Portable 110 compressor.

[dirtrider73068]

Yea a small pancake style compressor will run one, there is a 18 gauge 2 in1 brad stapler at harbor freight for about 21 bucks, or a 23 gauge pin nailer for about 20 or a 18 gauge brad nailer for 14 all air powered.

[Jim Finn]

I agree with dirtrider..... Also It depends on the size of the picture frames you plan to make. 6" square >>>23 guage pin nailers and glue.
  30" square would require glue and larger nails. (18 guage)

[Dan26]

I've made several frames of 10" x 12" with mitered corners. I haven't use any brads or nails, just glued them up and clamped them. They are all still holding up very well. If I were to make a large frame for some heavy work I would consider using brads.

[Rapid Roger]

 I have a brad nailer, it is an air powered Porter Cable and I use it some for putting trim on larger projects or for holding glue joints at corners but, not on picture frames. For picture frames I just glue smaller ones at the miter and use half lap joints or splines for larger ones. I know that gluing end grain is not very strong or advisable but, usually small frames just hang on the wall and do not get a lot of handling or abuse. If I am concerned about a given frame after gluing, sometimes I drill a 1/4" hole in the edge and through the joint and insert a 1/4" dowel with glue in the hole and then trim off the excess dowel and sand smooth. The dowel joint is not very noticeable after finishing and it is on the edge which is not often seen anyway. It doesn't really matter if you dowel the miter from the side edges or the top and bottom, it is equally strong either way.
Hope that helps.

Rog

[ToverT]

thanks for all the advise!  I think for now, I'll just get some good corner clamps, use Titebond III and see how that works out.

Ya'll probably saved me some money! 

Thanks,
Tommy T

[dirtrider73068]

Yea there is all sorts of corner clamps mitered clamps, might even be there hardware that made to hold picture frames, I have even seen on some frames on the back at the corners a staple to keep them from coming apart, I think its how ever you want to build it, will still be good.