electrical problem with Dewalt DW788?

[konafiend]

Does anyone have electrical problems or know of common electrical problems with the DeWalt DW788, model 1. It is not the fuse.

Gene C.

[Al W]

If you have an air compressor, blow out the area of your electrical switch.  Sawdust tends to collect in there and will compromise the switch - a blast of air cleans the area and lets you get back to work.

Hope this helps.

Al

[scrollgirl]

The switches are known to go.  Mine did twice, and there wasn't much sawdust in the chamber at all.  It is definitely a 'weak link' of the 788.

However, on the bright side, it is relatively cheap (about $15) and you can get them at any place that services them.  My bet is that is what is wrong.

Good luck and let us know, Sheila

[dgman]

Hey Gene, Like already mentioned above, It is probably the switch. If your handy, The switch can be easily repaired. I will post a step by step tutorial if you want to try it. Let me know.

[Rapid Roger]

You can over come the switch problem by using a dead man's foot switch. Then you can turn on the saw switch and cover it with clear tape (to keep the saw dust out) and never worry about it again.
It takes a bit of getting used to using your foot to turn the saw on and off but, once you have tried it for a day or two you will wonder why the saw didn't just come with a foot switch! 

Rog

[campasano]

I'm with Roger on this one. I have always used a foot switch while operating my scrollsaw. I placed tape over my saw switch from day one. The foot switch I use is the type that breaks electrical contact as soon as I remove my foot from the switch. It took me no time to adapt to this method.

Mike

[Crabbyboater]

The foot switch is the way to go, but first you have to repair the regular on-off switch. Once that is done, put it in the "on" position, put some wide tape over it, and plug the machine into the foot switch.

[konafiend]

Okay, here goes nothing.

According to the ohmeter the switch is good. There is no power getting to the switch but that may or may not be because the switch leads to a relay on the electronic board rather than having a direct connection to the motor. The speed control knob is just a rheostat. I do not know the specific values needed for a passing test but it has 3 wires. I think one is input voltage of 120, output voltage, and ground. If I understand it correctly the ohmeter says nothing is wrong with the speed control and the volmeter says the speed control is getting 120 volts. The only items left are the wiring, the electronic board and motor.

Has anyone heard of any of those parts going bad OR know of a diagnostic troubleshooting guide/flowchart I can follow?

[Al W]

Konafiend,

How old is the saw?  Still under warranty?

I would also suggest contacting DeWalt, they have been quite good in my experience assisting with problems encountered in regards to their equipment.   You may have a very simple fix they can advise you about.

Al

[dgman]

Its possible that taking things apart has loosened the debris from the switch contacts. try the switch again and see if it will turn on. If it does, Then you know it was the switch. If not, contact DeWalt.

[konafiend]

Thank you everyone. I found the problem. One of the wires from the potentiometer unplugged itself from the control board. Must have shaken loose. Whew! I thought I was going to watch TV all weekend.

[Al W]

Whew! I thought I was going to watch TV all weekend.

Now THAT is truly a scary concept!  Woe be to those with this affliction.  Give me the sawdust.