'Best' scroll saw for double-bevel Marquetry

[cahudson42]

The idea behind this thread is to encourage a discussion about the best currently-available scroll saws for double-bevel marquetry.

The writer is a relative newbie, but has come to the conclusion - given all the various scroll saw designs and differing features - that 'one size fits all' is not likely the case.

For example, double-bevel marquetry usually will involve maybe 2 pieces of veneer perhaps each 1/8" thick. A total of 1/4". Given that, the advantage of the Excalibur-type double-parallel link in transmitting force may not offer any advantage. On the other hand, the disadvantage of higher front-to-back blade movement with the short arms of this design may be a disadvantage when it comes to control and precision of the thin marquetry cuts..

Furthermore, other features - after some experience - may loom highly important. For example, the writer started with a Craftsman 21602 - largly based on the good (and accurate) reports from Steve. And the saw performs well. EXCEPT - with db-marquetry you are forever loosening the blade and threading it thru a new starter hole. While the Craftsman saws great, the lack of a quick-tensioning lever is a REAL pita. I can live with the blade holders. But the lack of a quick retensioning feature is enough for me to want to replace the saw with something else.

So lets start the discussion!

It seems clear if you have a lot of money, given what the Professionals use, you have nice choices:

Paul Schurch shows a very well-used R.B.I:

Paul Schurch: Cutting with a Scroll Saw
http://www.finewoodworking.com/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5249
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbMt6_9y3Xc&feature=plcp&context=C3a80ed0UDOEgsToPDskJr4ADSe1tR8aqmA61063_m

Matthew Werner uses a Hegner:

Wood Works (Santa Cruz) #1 with Matthew Werner
http://blip.tv/wood-works/wood-works-1-with-matthew-werner-3895240

Silas Kopf an older Excalibur:

Silas Kopf...A Day in Marquetry
http://furnitology.blogspot.com/2008/11/silas-kopf-day-in-marquetry.html

I find it interesting that two of these three use conventional design parallel arm saws (R.B.I, Hegner). So perhaps for this application we don't need an Excalibur or a DeWalt? Maybe, just, maybe, there may be one or more possibly less-expensive offerings that will work well?

How about some thoughts, experiences, comments on the following (or anything else)?

I already mentioned I am frustrated by the Crafstman lack of quick-tensioning. So frustrated that in my mind I have already eliminated every saw that has a back tensioning knob, or even a back tensioning knob with a quick release (Rexon, PC 370SS). So whats left?

First, if you have not already gotten your own copy of it, I suggest you get John A. Nelson's 'Scroll Saw Workbook'. I wish I had before I bought the Craftsman. In it, there is a nice overview of a number of different saws. One, at $229, is the Makita SJ401. It has everything on the front, including a quick-tensioning lever. Sadly, it is an allen-screw blade holder (like the Craftsman) - but the screw can be replaced (most likely) with a thumbscrew. Also sadly, it appears to be discontinued (at least in the US. But several Canadian sites still seem to offer it). Anything similar? Maybe. The Genesis GSS160 looks to me almost identical to the Makita. See: http://www.genesispowertools.com/portfolios/16%E2%80%9D-variable-speed-scroll-saw-gss160/  And the Operator's Manual: http://www.genesispowertools.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/GSS160_OpMan.pdf

Plus it is $128 at Amazon. Anyone have this? Any comments on it? Particularly for double-bevel marquetry?

Or/and on the 'talk of the day' - the Delta 40-690 now on-sale at Woodcraft for $350. Is front-to-back blade motion really any problem when doing marquetry? (Remembering 'waste areas' are limited when doing points/turns..) Or? Quality of these 'type 2s'?

Any and all thoughts, comments, and suggestions on anything saw-related to double-bevel marquetry appreciated!

[Terry Jackson]

OK, slow and quirky internet today so I skipped your links.

The EX has an adjustment to mostly eliminate any front-to-back motion.  Have not found a similar adjustment for the 788, not saying it isn't there, just that I have not found it.

Some of the Hawk models have replacement blade clamps available from Pozsgai Designs, they have a web site but best to call them.  His designs are all front tension.  Great products and support.  The Hawk clamps were pretty limited to bottom feeding.  Some folks like that, some don't.  Frank P has bottom and top clamps for some models that let you use the Hawk as a top feeder. That may or may not be important to you and your work.  His clamps use a short left to right arc to apply the clamp and the original lever system to tension.  The Hawk may slow even more on slow speed, approaching stall, due to motor design and choice issues, not apparent at higher speeds.  http://pozsgaidesigns.com/

The DW 788 has front tension.

The EX is the only saw I know of where the head moves and the table stays put.  Short message is gravity is not introduced as a source of error.

Perhaps others will respond.
Terry

[Jim Finn]

I do a lot of double bevel inlay of images on cedar box lids. (as many as ten images some days)  I have a dedicated Hegner multimax-3 set up at 3 degree angle for this.  It has a 3/8"+ stroke, which works great for me.  (I have another saw  for, other than inlay, work).  I use two 3/8" thick wood for my inlays.  I do not have to change blades or re thread through starting holes much more than a few times on each inlay, unlike fret work which requires hundreds.  Quick and easy blade changes is not important to me for this reason.  I started using a DeWalt but when it died an early death I got the Hegners. Both  brands worked well for my inlay work.

[dgman]

I do a lot of double bevel inlay of images on cedar box lids. (as many as ten images some days)  I have a dedicated Hegner multimax-3 set up at 3 degree angle for this.  It has a 3/8"+ stroke, which works great for me.  (I have another saw  for, other than inlay, work).  I use two 3/8" thick wood for my inlays.  I do not have to change blades or re thread through starting holes much more than a few times on each inlay, unlike fret work which requires hundreds.  Quick and easy blade changes is not important to me for this reason.  I started using a DeWalt but when it died an early death I got the Hegners. Both  brands worked well for my inlay work.

Hey Jim, Just to verify, your old DeWalt was satisfactory at cutting inlays?

[Jim Finn]

Yes my DeWalt cut the inlays just fine.  It was a type two and literaly fell apart after 20 months.  I had already done 3-4 repairs on it and was so frustrated  with it that I bought the most expensive saw I found, a  Hegner Polymax-3
      I later bought a used Hegner Multimax-3 and now use that one just for inlays.
    ( I know lots of people swear by DeWalt so I do not rag on DeWalt too much).