using plywood

[cliveg]

twice now ive use birch ply and have had veneer lift when cutting fine areas i used this before and had no probs not sure if it was b4 i got fd ultra blades this was on 6 and 9 mm ply should i be using different blades if so what blades do you recomend also as i have a source off good veneers would these work on mdf or ply any tips 4 this would be great regs clive

[Mainewoods]

Clive, you said you were cutting birch ply, but was it Baltic birch ply?  The Baltic birch ply is usually very well glued together and I don't remember ever having any separation of the plys.  Lower quality ply will definitely do that!  Could be you just got a bad board.  I use the Ultra Reverse blades and haven't had any problems with them. 

[Russ C]

It sounds like the birch plywood you are using is the type from Home Depot or Lowe's. If that's the case it is not designed for scroll sawing. It is usually used for drawer bottoms, under-lament etc.

You need to get a good Baltic Birch Plywood like from    Sloan's Woodshop

[Rapid Roger]

The plywood sold in big box stores and most lumberyards is not good for scrolling. If you look at the edge of that ply and then some good Baltic birch made for scrolling, you will notice that the good stuff has a lot more layers of wood. The good plywood of 3/8" has 7 layers of wood and the structural plywood will have 3 to 5 layers and the layers are of thicker wood and not glued or compressed as well. It also has voids (holes) in the edges that the better wood does not have.

Rog

[cameronj]

I agree with everyone.  I first tried the birch ply from Home Depot and had the same lifting problem.  Now I use good quality baltic birch ply that I get from a local mill, and don't have the problem anymore.
Jim

[Gabby]

Has anyone tried Luan also spelled Luaun? It's usually what you find on hollow core doors, it's just a thin plywood with a fancy name. I think it is available with outer plies of some decent looking wood of diferent species. I found this link.

http://www.insidewoodworking.com/luanplywood.html

This one has photos of the different veneers used, some of the grain structure is interesting. Doesn't sound like something you would want to place out in the weather but might be useful for indoor projects.

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/mahogany,%20philippine.htm

I'll probably check my local lumber yard to see what's available. Being on a tight budget makes me look for inexpensive alternatives.
I hope this is useful,
Gabby

[julief]

Luan is probably the worst you can use.  It chips out bad and warps.

[dunk]

Gabby,
It's okay for some backers.  It has a tendency to chip really bad and has voids in it.  Not really good for scrolling.

[Gabby]

Can I try a little tiny piece pleeeeeeeezzzz?
LOL
Gabby

[julief]

Try away, Gabby.  That's exactly how I found out it wasn't real good for scrolling.  Since I had some left over, I used it as a backer, It bent my hard work all to heck. 

[Gabby]

Heck
They don't carry much of anything, (local lumber yard) talked to one of the clerks today, the only BB they have is 1/2",  they had some nice Red Oak boards but all 1" Hemlock same story. I'll probably end up ordering my wood supplies on line. I did get some 1/2" clear pine there before, but that's about the best they can do.
I was kidding about trying the Luaun after being told it's crap. That is why we have a forum like this to help one another keep from making the same mistakes.
Gabby

[Bill P]

Hey, Gabby, is there a cabinet maker in Cave Junction?  Perhaps you can ask him for his scrap?  That's worked for others.

Bill

[Gabby]

Hey, Gabby, is there a cabinet maker in Cave Junction?  Perhaps you can ask him for his scrap?  That's worked for others.

Bill

I've been looking for that in the phone book, and found 2 possibles, I plan to contact, one is in Selma.
Just haven't gotten A Round Toit yet. LOL
Gabby

[TripleB]

Hey Clive, along with different wood, you might want to check that your blade is all the way seated in the bottom clamp also. I had a similar problem until I realized that the non-cutting part of the blade was coming up through the table  and into the wood, which means the blade is not cutting at that point but just pushing on the wood on the upstroke. Now ever time I change a blade, I make sure that the arm is in full upstroke and that only teeth come up through the table, before I tighten the bottom clamp. This does seem to be a bigger problem with the reverse blades, at least it was for me. I also cut off about a 1/4" off the bottom of the blade with a pair of wire cutters to make sure the blade sits a little lower.

Bob