Cutting a FINE LINE.

[Danny]

Hey all....I know there is lots n lots of patterns in our forum that agree with my kind of beginner style, but I cannot understand why there are so, so many patterns that require cutting a design that is barely bigger than the blade curf.
I normally use Flying Dutchman blades #3 -#5 and would LOVE to learn secrets on the expertiese of cutting these patterns.  Any words of advice will be GREATLY APPREACIEATED.  tks in advance....  Danny :+}

[GrayBeard]

Danny...I just received some of the FD "PUZZLE" blades from Mike and have not tried them yet but if they cut as fine as I think they will that would be the way to go.

They are about the 'finest' blades I have ever seen except for my step son's 'Jeweler' blades that he uses to cut Gold, Platinum, and Silver.

~~~GB~~~

[dgman]

Hey Danny, Sometimes the lines that are just the width of the blade are there just to add a little detail. These lines are called veins, or veining. Sometimes they define a shape like an ear or nose. To make these cuts you need a drill bit as small as the thickness of the blade, unless they existent from a larger cut. The small drill bits are usually sized by numbers, such as 61, 62, and so on to 71. These bits are available from Mike at Mikes Workshop and Sloan's Woodshop.

[jimbo]

I have tried the FD puzzle blades [thanks Judy] and they are excellent, I still cant get my head around the spirals they go every where
Jimbo

[Leldon]

Danny,

I know alot of the designers of fretwork patterns and even some portrait patterns use the thin lines to minimize the amount of 'drift' from a person.  Say you have a thick line, the size of a sharpie marker, and one that is thin.  On the bigger line you can sway to the left, right and down the center.  While you can say you never drifted off the line, you can tell it big time.  I love the new thin lines.  With less room to 'move' you get better and more accurate cut.  I'm not the best cutter and still drift from the line on occasion, but I think the thin lines helps aLOT.

Leldon

[Merlin]

Jimbo: Spirals hmmm If you cut first with an ordinary (flat) blade then with a spiral blade the spiral will open up the cut and will follow the cut all ready made a lot easier than trying to cut with the spiral first.

That make sense.

***Merlin***

[Danny]

I want to really THANK all for your info.  From reading everything I can understand the outcome.  Merlin I kind of like your thots on cutting a thin line with a flat blade and using the spiral to more or less enlarge certain areas.  I have given the spirals plenty of practice time and just can not keep them from wondering here n there and they really tear up the bottom.  I will stick to the flat blades.  Tks again....  Danny  :+}

[Russ C]

If it is a pattern with small intracate cuts I have found FD Puzzle blades from Mike work great. If I am doing veining and need to open up the line (cut) I do the same thing as Merlin, flat blade then a spiral blade. 

[julief]

Just remember - those fine lines add detail to your piece.  Either the FD puzzle blade or olsen's platinum reverse tooth in #0 or #2/0 will do the trick.  It will make a world of difference in your pieces.