Using "wood stain" on pine--Question

[SamCec]

Hi Steve:

I'm new to scroll sawing and I am trying to learn the tricks of doing it. There is a lot of practice involved.

One thing I noticed, on certain woods when I try to "stain" them, the stain does not take very well, it blotches. From your recommendations, I need to use a primer. Can you recommend a clear primer that is good when you use a stain?

Thanks,

[Dragonlord85]

SamCec, when choosing a sealer to apply before stain you always want to make sure it is compatible with the stain type you are using. If the stain is water based then the pre-stain sealer should also be water based. If the stain is oil based then the sealer needs to be oil based. Most stains, like Minwax have sealers formulated for their stains. Next time you go to where you get your stain look for the proper sealer to go with it. When you apply the sealer most recommend letting it set for a couple of minutes before applying the stain. I find this works very well on pine and poplar.

[SamCec]

SamCec, when choosing a sealer to apply before stain you always want to make sure it is compatible with the stain type you are using. If the stain is water based then the pre-stain sealer should also be water based. If the stain is oil based then the sealer needs to be oil based. Most stains, like Minwax have sealers formulated for their stains. Next time you go to where you get your stain look for the proper sealer to go with it. When you apply the sealer most recommend letting it set for a couple of minutes before applying the stain. I find this works very well on pine and poplar.

Thank you. The stain I am using is water based. I will purchase some and get back to you after trying it.

Thanks,

[Sawdust Dave]

Sam,
A good thing to do before applying pre stain conditioner on pine is to sand it with a ROS sander if you have one. I learned a method of sanding that
helps get rid of splotching in addition to conditioner. Start with 120 grit paper and sand WITH the grain moving at a slow speed of about 3 inches per second. Make at least 4 passes over the entire board at this speed and grit. Do the same thing with 150 grit and again with 180 grit. Then use 220 grit and sand at a 45 degree angle from the grain moving about 2 inches per second or less. Then reverse the direction and go at the opposite 45 degree angle from the grain. The final step is to sand with 220 WITH the grain. With this step the slower the better using light pressure on the sander. Make about 4 final passes over the entire board. It might sound like its alot of extra work but its not. I've had very good results with it.

Dave

[Sawdust Dave]

The sanding should be done before you start cutting

[Dragonlord85]

Another thing with sanding is between grits lightly wipe the wood with a damp rag going with the grain. This will raise any little "wiskers" that can then be sanded off. This method and sanding down to 220 grit will produce a smooth finish and prevent the wiskers from coming up when you apply the sealer or stain.

[SamCec]

Sam,
A good thing to do before applying pre stain conditioner on pine is to sand it with a ROS sander if you have one. I learned a method of sanding that
helps get rid of splotching in addition to conditioner. Start with 120 grit paper and sand WITH the grain moving at a slow speed of about 3 inches per second. Make at least 4 passes over the entire board at this speed and grit. Do the same thing with 150 grit and again with 180 grit. Then use 220 grit and sand at a 45 degree angle from the grain moving about 2 inches per second or less. Then reverse the direction and go at the opposite 45 degree angle from the grain. The final step is to sand with 220 WITH the grain. With this step the slower the better using light pressure on the sander. Make about 4 final passes over the entire board. It might sound like its alot of extra work but its not. I've had very good results with it.

Dave

Dave:
Thanks for the advice. I'm new at scroll sawing and trying to learn the ropes. Your advice and others have been a tremendous help.

Steve and his site have been a big help in helping me learn. I appreciate every ones advice.

[SawTooth]

  One thing to pay attention to is in which forum you are posting a question... this question in General Scroll Saw Talk might have been seen by more people.
  For my 2-cents, I'd say a thin coating of dewaxed shellac is a great sealer... thin coat means either a single coat of spray shellac or thinning the dewaxed shellac with alcohol so it goes on easy... beware though that it sets fast so you have to apply it quickly... but you want it to dry before continuing. Shellac is compatible with both oil-based and water-based stains and topcoats.  The shellac will keep the stain at the same level, so it won't be absorbed more in some areas than in other areas... Gel stains work on a similar principle and is another option.

Spence