Best finish for detailed projects?

[robroy865]

What do most people use to finish a project with very detailed cuts?

I do not like to use any oils since many of my projects have paper components (eg book covers etc - http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=18948.msg171764#msg171764).

I have used spray lacquer but sometimes it accumulates in the narrow areas and I struggle to remove it. 

Hard wax is nice but also difficult to get into detailed areas.

What other suggestions do you have or am I doing something stupid with the lacquer?

[Dakota Saw Dust]

Your spraying pattern may be the key.  I spray (1) on the back & just the open areas very lightly from all 4 directions. Some times I only spray 2 directions at a time to prevent runs or build up. Then (2) I'll spray the front in 4 directions with dry time as needed with a lite sanding [400 grit or higher] between coats - again so bumps don't develop. One of my early on problems with lacquer was spraying to heavily and not sanding to a flat finish.  The result was small cutouts filled & a very bumpy top surface.  Good luck - Cheers  Brian

[DWSudekum]

Rob would it be possible to finish the wood parts ahead of assembly?  If so then you might be able to get away with using a drying oil such as Tung or Linseed.  Or if that is not how you want to go then several thinned shellac coats will seal.  Being that it is thinned it will flow onto the project and dry quickly.  Shellac is thinned by denatured alcohol and any excess accumulations can be leveled with a paint brush and some denatured alcohol.

As for the lacquer your best bet is thin coats, many thin coats.  Don't get in a rush.  Lacquer takes time to apply properly.

DW

[ChuckD]

With detailed cuts (or any other) after dipping I very carefully air blow out the holes.  Most of the time the dipping (50/50 BLO/ Mineral Spirits) is enough.  If not the Spray Lacquer for a good finish.  The final coat is for protection and 90 percent of the detailed work I do is framed in glass so not so much protection is needed.  The mix pops the grain and give a great appearance so i am happy with that. 

[Bill Wilson]

I use a lot of shellac for scrolled projects.  You can get it in spray cans, but I like to spray it with my compressor and HVLP conversion guns.  It's easy to spray, dries very fast and the odor doesn't linger like lacquer or oil finishes.  Spray a very light cut and you can hit it several times, from multiple angles to reach into all the frets without it building up.  You can mix your own from flakes and get a pretty good variety of shades from clear to very dark amber.  You can also mix in dyes to get an even fuller range of colors.

[robroy865]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I have eased up on the amount of lacquer per coat and it seems to be working very well - this hobby has taught me to be patient in almost all aspects.

I will try shellac soon but have one question which is quite specific: I live in Sweden and all the alcohol we get is coloured red (for safety reasons). Will this have an effect on the finish when used to dissolve the flakes in it?

[cowboysfanatic]

I really like lemon oil and I also really like deft spray poly I always have good luck with these

[Rapid Roger]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I have eased up on the amount of lacquer per coat and it seems to be working very well - this hobby has taught me to be patient in almost all aspects.

I will try shellac soon but have one question which is quite specific: I live in Sweden and all the alcohol we get is coloured red (for safety reasons). Will this have an effect on the finish when used to dissolve the flakes in it?

I have no idea! You will just have to try it and see. Try just wiping a coat of alcohol on some wood to see if it stains the wood. If in does then I would say don't use it. Alcohol dries (evaporates) very quickly, so you should have an answer in  about 5 minutes!

Rog