bowls

[seadog852]

Anybody have good technique for bowls. I cut 2 out and when I put the pieces together, all sides don't seem to line up straight. Did I cut wrong or is that the norm? I don't mind the sanding but it seems a bit excessive when one side lines up and i have 1/16 on other side. I do maneuver to make smaller.  Thanks.

[Rapid Roger]

If you want to learn to cut bowls.... Buy a book called "Wooden Bowls from the scroll saw" written by Carole Rothman. I got my copy from Fox Chapel Publishing and it costs $19.95. You may be able to find a copy at a local book store or order it on line or at least try the local library.
I guess that it is possible to cut a bowl that aligns correctly right off of the saw but, I've never done it!  There is always going to be a lot of sanding to be done.
It is a question of the thickness of the wood, the kerf of the saw blade and the correct angle to the dangle of the saw table. (or head tilt in some cases)
I have made about 12 or more bowls and quite a few vases and mugs and always get some off-set between segments but, it is not to worry, it can be sanded out. (the less sanding, the better of course but.....)
When you start to glue up the segments, don't try to align the edges, center them with as equal over hang all around and pay some attention to aligning the grain and press two segments at a time together until the glue dries. Then glue another segment (or set of segments) to the first set.
Be sure to sand the inside nice and smooth BEFORE gluing the bottom on then do the sanding on the out side after the bottom is on and the glue is dry.
Hope this helps some.

Rog

[seadog852]

yes it does. Thanks

[pddesertrat]

There are also several Youtube videos on this.  Charles Dearing made one recently also.

[DWSudekum]

Anybody have good technique for bowls. I cut 2 out and when I put the pieces together, all sides don't seem to line up straight. Did I cut wrong or is that the norm? I don't mind the sanding but it seems a bit excessive when one side lines up and i have 1/16 on other side. I do maneuver to make smaller.  Thanks.

There are three factors that affect the fit of your rings for your bowl.  First factor is the accuracy of your cutting of the pattern.  You will always have some sanding. Second factor is the accuracy of the optimum angle to cut the ring.  There is a mathematical formula you can use to get the angle  OR you can go to this website,http://www.scrollmania.com/AngleCalc.html , and put in your information and have it figure it out for you. And lastly the size if the blade you use.  This is because of the kerf it cuts.  It throws the perfect ( on paper ) calculations of what the angle should be off by the amount of the kerf.  There is a mathematical way of including it  however it is much simpler just to be accurate in the setting of the angles of the table and accurate  the cutting of the pattern and accept that there will be a little bit of sanding.  Looking forward to seeing your bowls.

DW

[seadog852]

ok so I made the bowls however finishing them is a trick. I'm not the best finisher, I did finish it but is looks bad. Please tell me if I did it right or need to remove what I did and do it another way, etc.

I used mineral spirits first, let dry. Then added boiled linseed oil. Let dry then I added a spray gloss. When I lightly sanded it, it turned waxy and looks bad.

I guess no oil next time or just oil. Thanks for the pointers.

[Rapid Roger]

I think that you're OK.
Now go get the Johnsons or Minwax paste wax and wipe on a coat, let it dry a bit and then buff out to a sheen. If necessary, do it again and again. Until you like the finish and it is a smooth soft looking glow.
This won't give you a real GLOSSY sheen, more of a SEMI GLOSS but, in my opinion makes for a very smooth and rich looking wooden bowl.
If for some reason you don't care for "that" look, let every thing dry for a few days and grab the sand paper and sand back down to wood and try again. OR, re spray with more coats of glossy and lightly sand between each coat except for the last one.
In my opinion you have done everything the way I would have done it.
The one thing that may have caused a problem is that you didn't let the BLO dry long enough. It will set up and get hard and seal the wood and pop the grain but it does need time to dry. Like maybe even two days depending on how much you applied. Most of the time, I wipe on the BLO with a rag, let it set for an hour or two and wipe it down (even as far as rubbing it in) and apply finish the next day or two.
Some things just cant be rushed and watching paint dry is one of them. 

Rog