Hello from Colorado

[Bedford1]

I registered on here a few months ago when I got my first saw, but haven't been able to get back on, so I re-registered.  I purchased a beginners book and did most of the exercises than made some stuff for my wife and grandkids and thought I was getting a little better.  I just started cutting out a pattern from Steve's catalog of a fairy heart for a granddaughter's birthday on Valentines day.  I am using 1/4 inch Baltic birch from woodcraft and a #5 Flying Dutchman blade for Baltic birch.  My issue is when cutting out the holes in the fairy wings, the top layer of the plywood is chipping off.  The back side is pretty much intact so I'll just turn it over when I stain it.  What am I doing wrong?  Is plywood not suitable for this type of scroll work, or do I have a defective piece of wood?  I've tried different speeds, the slower speeds seem to work better, but I'm still getting chipping.  Any help would be appreciated.  I wish I had more time on the saw but only get time now and then.  I'm having a blast.  I picked up a Type 1 Dewalt 788 with stand and light in what appeared to be brand new condition off Craigslist for $250.  The only mark on the machine was where the blade hole is cut in the table top, the rear had a blade cut in the rear.  That was until I loaded it in my truck, I scratched some of the yellow paint.  I ordered some the sanding belts off of Amazon and they are just a tad too wide and also made a cut in the table top. When I've used them up I'm going to use Steve's idea of just cutting and folding my own sandpaper.  I'm hopefully going to retire in just under 6 years and want to add this to my other hobbies so I don't retire to the couch and the TV set.  I'm loving the saw so far and I think it is a good choice for me.  I've never been artistic, but I can follow the lines, at least mostly. 

Thank you and any hints/tips would be appreciated. 

[Russ C]

Glad you found us and joined Bedford1. Russ from Florida here, welcome to the Scrollsaw Forum.  First a #5 Flying Dutchman blade for ? Baltic Birch plywood is way to big of a blade. A #1 (for more detailed cutting) or a #3 will do that job fine. Second, what type of #5, a 2-Way Cut, Penguin Silver Reverse, Penguin Silver, XL, Scroll Reverse, Ultra Reverse ? Is it possible you have the blade upside down? On the scroll reverse and the ultra reverse the blade has a slight bend or curve on the top of the blade. 

[julief]

Hi and welcome to the forum.  I'm Julie from Texas.  Glad you joined us.  You should not get chipping with Baltic birch ply.  You don't need a blade that big but it should not be chipping either.  Like Russ said, on 1/4", I would probably use a #1 or #3 Ultra Reverse.  The reverse tooth blades will cut on the up stroke on the under side of your piece so that there is a clean cut top and bottom.  An upside down blade would definitely cause chipping.  We've all done it.  I've never had a whole lot of luck with those sanding belts for the scrollsaw.  Most of your cuts, won't need sanding.  On the rare occasion that I have needed to use something like that, I have cut a basic emery board in half or thirds to use on my saw.  Super cheap and very effective.

[pierre62]

WElcome to the forum.
I am Pierre from Qu?bec, Canada.

[Bedford1]

Hello and thank you for the replies.  I'm using a FD TC only because it said for the Baltic birch plywood.  I ordered the assortment pack from Mike's and went by the insert.  I went to Home depot and Lowe's and the blades they had were Skil and Bosch.  I bought some but they only have tooth count, not a number so I'm not sure what I have.  I picked up some Pegas' blades while at Woodcraft but only have gone by what the charts I've seen have said.  I checked the blade and I'm pretty sure it is in right.  There is a small dimple on the end I have at the top.  If the blade is in backwards on future projects and I have it in correctly wouldn't it chip the bottom out instead of the top. 

Again, thank you for all the advice.  I am having fun

[pddesertrat]

Bedford1 glad you joined us.  I will not make comment on cutting with flat blades because so far I have very little experience with them.   I use spiral blades for portrait type work.  Just wanted to say welcome.  I'm sure you will get good answers here. 

[Rover2]

Welcome to the forum.  I'm Al from TN.

[sawdust703]

Try using a #2 skip tooth blade as well. But as mentioned, a #5 blade is designed more for 1/2" & 3/4" material. Your best bet, as mentioned, will be a #1 or #3 blade. Pay attention to your blade tension as well. Try not to over tighten with the smaller blades. They'll break pretty fast.

[wombatie]

Hi welcome to the forum.  I'm Marg from Australia.  You have some pretty good advice already on blades so I don't need to add my 2 cents worth.  Good luck.

Marg

[julief]

Hardware store blades are by far the worst on the market.  Although they are readily available (and we have all used them at one time or another), they don't cut well or stay sharp long.  They are twice as expensive as ordering a good blade through a vender.  I use both Flying Dutchman and Olson blades.  They are a fraction of the cost of the hardware store blades and will make a huge difference in your cutting ability.  Mike at Mikes Workshop deals with flying Dutchman blades and has a variety pack available so the beginning scroller can try a multitude of blades and find one that fits him or her.  Seyco sells the Olson blades and there is a wide variety there.  Mike at Mikes workshop is always willing to talk to you and help you find what is right for your project.  He's a great guy.

[Toneman]

Welcome! I am Tony,aka,Toneman from Paris, Texas.

[jamminjack]

Hey there and welcome.
As you can see we have a great forum here.  Lots of answers to any problem.
My 2 cents.  Keep with Flying Dutchman and you won't go wrong.  Enjoy your new
hobby, and make lots of saw dust.

Jamminjack

[busco]

Hey Bedford1 what part of Colorado are you in.  I am a native from Longmont myself now living in Indiana(don't ask why) but anyway welcome to the forum.

[Bedford1]

Wow, thanks for all the info.  Like I said, I just went by a blade chart and it said a #5 was good from thin to about 1 1/2 inch.  I read a lot online before I purchased a saw, and was patient hoping to find a good deal, I think I did ok as I wasn't sure if I was going to like it.  I have multiple grandkids, I just made 2 things for a 12 year old girl, and tonight I cut out 3 animal puzzles for a 2 year old boy.  So far I'm having fun.  I'm going to have to order more blades.  I did get the assortment pack from Mike's, and it was all #5 blades and the tc said it was for Baltic birch so that's why I was using it.

I live in Brighton, about 20 miles northeast of Denver.  I lived from 1963 to 1973 in Brazil Indiana.  A blip on the map between Terre Haute and Indianapolis.

Again thanks and send all tips my way

[gordster]

Welcome Bedford,I'm Gordie from Nova Scotia Canada..I use olsen blades mostly..I find 20 teeth per inchwork very well on 1/4 inch birch.Portraits etc I move up to 28 tpi.sometimes 40tpi..You have some pegas blades,they are marked tpi so play with those numbers and you will conquer it.