JigSaw Puzzles

[apopj]

HiSteve,

I trying to make a few JigSaw puzzles for Christmas gifts and have a couple of questions.

1. I'm using hardwood, either poplar or oak. I tried using a #5 blade but the gaps are too big for what I want. I switched to a #2 and the gap is perfect but the wood burns. Should I be trying a faster speed or slower? I haven't encountered an article that explains at what speed different blades work best at so I am at a loss. Larger blades faster? Slower? Doesn't matter?

2. Once I mount a picture on the selected wood, what is a good way to transfer the pattern to the picture in a way that won't mar the picture? How do you do it?

Thanks so much...

Dr J Popa

[Rapid Roger]

I made a few puzzles for gifts two years ago. Here is my advice, take it for what it is worth....

#1. Use thin (1/8" or 1/4") plywood for the puzzle. I'm afraid solid wood could break or split for you.

#2. Use "Puzzle blades" available from FD blades (Mike) and other manufactures. They really the only way to fly with all the tight corners in a jigsaw puzzle. They are very thin and the pieces fit very well after cutting.

#3. I glued the picture on a piece of 1/4" plywood and the pattern on a piece of 1/8" plywood which I put on top of the picture and stack cut them and then tossed the pattern piece and kept the picture piece. Some people freehand cut the puzzle pieces and don't use a pattern at all.

#4. Make two copies of the picture so you have one to put on top of the box that you put the pieces in. (I made my own wooden boxes for the puzzles but, any small box would work of course.)

#5. (you don't have to do this) I assembled the puzzle on the workbench as I cut the pieces to make sure that they all fit and they were all there before putting them in the box. Just annal I guess. 

I made five puzzles in a row, they were about 5" x 7" overall and had at least 35 pieces in each one. I was so tired of cutting all those little jibbles by the time I was done that I looked forward to making the five boxes for them. 
Depending on who the puzzles are meant for (mine were for grandkids) you may want to keep it fairly simple. I doubt that any of my puzzles were ever put together by the kids because of difficulty and the number of pieces (kids have short attention spans) so I'm gussing all the pieces are still in the boxes. 

Rog

[apopj]

Thanks Rog,

That's just what I need to know about making puzzles. I've seen some demo's on free handing the puzzle, but I just don't think I'm up to that just yet. One wrong move and you get to start over....

Now, how do you determine at what speed to cut? Like I mentioned, I have used a #2 blade but it seems to burn while I am cutting. I've ordered some of Mike's puzzle blades, but any clues on determining saw speed?

Thanks, again

Jeff

[Billy in Va]

Everything Rog said is spot on.  The one change  I make is I cut two puzzles at the same time. I just can't see tossing one of the puzzles so here is what I do.  Both puzzles are the same size. I glue the picture to the wood ( usually 1/4 or 1/8 Baltic birch. I then put the two pictures face to face with a piece of wax paper between them. Secure the two pieces together in what ever manner you choose and apply the puzzle pattern to one side. I cut the pattern, and assemble the puzzles as I cut.  Works great for me.

[Rapid Roger]

Jeff,
I, or no one else can tell you what speed to use. There are so many variables as to blade, wood used, thickness of wood, etc. But, if you are burning the wood, I would say that your blade is too dull or you are pushing and forcing things. (which usually comes from a dull blade) It just comes from experience and your cutting methods.
I know that blades cost money but, when you think about what it costs to buy a dozen blades from Mike, they are not expensive enough to cause frustration....TOSS THE DARN DULL BLADE!! 
This is not a race, take your time and just guide the line into the new sharp blade and let it do the work. If the saw seems too fast for your cutting control, slow it down a few notches if the saw seems to be to slow to keep up with your ability to feed the line into the blade, speed it up a notch or two and soon you will think "THAT IS IT!". Just remember, it's working just fine for this job but, it may not be right for the next one. That is why God made variable speed saws.  When I started, my first saw had two speeds, fast and stop. 

By the way, Billy has a GREAT IDEA on not only stack cutting two or more puzzles but, putting the puzzle pattern on the back side. That would have helped me immensely had I thought of it a couple of years ago. 

Rog

[Billy in Va]

Roger is right about about the speed.  Onty you can determine what speed is best for your situation.  When I first started I used a fairly slow speed.  A good friend and folks here suggested I speed up the saw and I would get better control.  It did not work for me at first I was making more designer firewood than I could afford.  After talking to more people, I soon realized that I was trying to cut as fast as the saw was running.  One if the hardest things I had to re-learn was to slow down my push rate and let the saw do the work.  It didn't take too long until I was cutting much better and my mistakes became few.  High tension and high speed coupled with patience will result in quite a bit more enjoyment. 

I seldom have any problem with burning/ Once again my solution may e different from other folks.  I use clear packing tape, but I put it directly on the wood, and glue the pattern to the tape.  The only time I use the pattern directly to the wood is if the pieces are very tiny and removing the tape would cause damage.  I use the tape first due to the glare I get from the tape, but that is probably a problem due to my vision. I put the tape on from a dispenser and then use a squeegee  to smooth each strip.  When the wood is covered, I spray the back of the pattern with spray glue, apply the pattern to the tape and squeegee the pattern flat.  It takes longer to type it out than it does to  actually do it. I know many use the tape and pattern in reverse order but this is what works for me!   Just like most of the  people who  use a foot pedal on their saw, prefer a dead-man pedal. I use the on-off style.  I find that when making long cuts, I can stretch my leg to a more comfortable position.