Tuning the DW788

[Woodmangler]

Hi all

I have been playing with my new DW788. I read http://www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm and did the blade guides - they were not lined up and did have a pretty bad surface. Now they grip the blades a lot better, and I sand the blades too. Nice to be able to really tension the blade!

I followed their guide on getting the table at 90 degrees too

My question is: One of the articles stated that if you have front to back blade travel the saw will be too aggressive and hard to control. That seems to be the problem I having. I can see the front to back blade "shadow"

The problem is, I really do not understand how to correct this. I have read and re-read the article and I just don't understand what to do to correct this.

Anyone help me out?

Thanks

[Woodmangler]

Anyone?

[KarlB]

Sorry you're having a problem.  There are topics on the forum that might help. 

Other than that it people will respond, but it may take a couple of days.

Good luck.

Karl

[yyyyyguy]

I just returned my new Dw788 last week, from what people here suggested there is no adjustment for the wobble, I get my new one tomorrow.  Hope that helps.  Pete

[alien11]

I can verify that if you follow the instruction on Rick's site you will decrease front-back blade movement.

With a printout of the instruction at your side just follow step-by-step. You will wind up with the saw pretty much taken apart so keep track of all pieces and where they go.

What I had to do was file the screw holes in the yellow cover so that the holes became slots. Don't start the procedure unless you have a set of small round files. From memory I think I had to enlarge the holes by about 1/32". That reduced the front back motion from 3/23 to 1/32, and I was happy with that.

Its intimidating to start disassembling the machine, but take it slow and trust Rick's instructions.

[Woodmangler]

I can verify that if you follow the instruction on Rick's site you will decrease front-back blade movement.

With a printout of the instruction at your side just follow step-by-step. You will wind up with the saw pretty much taken apart so keep track of all pieces and where they go.

What I had to do was file the screw holes in the yellow cover so that the holes became slots. Don't start the procedure unless you have a set of small round files. From memory I think I had to enlarge the holes by about 1/32". That reduced the front back motion from 3/23 to 1/32, and I was happy with that.

Its intimidating to start disassembling the machine, but take it slow and trust Rick's instructions.

Thank you. I was hoping to find someone that had actually done it. I will go re-read the instructions. The first time I read them I had no idea what he was talking about... since the saw is new I am NOT familiar with it at all.

Thanks again

[jscott2]

Woodmangler, I had some success in reducing the back and forth movement by raising the rear of the table.  If you haven't cut the slots, raising the table might work for you.  I made an adjustable gizmo http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=12146.0 because I couldn't figure out how much I wanted to raise the back of the table.

Good luck and be sure to let us know what you did and how much it improved the situation.
Jim

[Woodmangler]

Woodmangler, I had some success in reducing the back and forth movement by raising the rear of the table.  If you haven't cut the slots, raising the table might work for you.  I made an adjustable gizmo http://stevedgood.com/community/index.php?topic=12146.0 because I couldn't figure out how much I wanted to raise the back of the table.

Good luck and be sure to let us know what you did and how much it improved the situation.
Jim

Thanks. I am going to talk to a machinist friend at work and see if he can make one like that... if not, I will make one like the one pictured in that link.

I sure do appreciate it. I will make sure I get back and report.

[jscott2]

If you do make a bracket out of wood, use a hard wood.  I used soft wood (pine?) and the nuts tend to sink into the wood.

Jim

[dirtrider73068]

If you want hard wood try think its called brazil wood, this wood is so hard and dense a small block will sink in water and its very heavy, you have to predrill holes the right size or it will break screws and bolts. Its also hard to cut, but is a nice looking wood, and great in wet places not prone to rot. We use this at work to make our park name signs.