Messages

1

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Delta 40-694 table not square to blade front to back

« on: August 24, 2024, 04:31:37 pm »

Hi again Russell..  Sorry I didn't realize your saw is the newer Delta similar to the Dewalt 788. Below is the link to a video to adjust the side to side movement of the blade and get it centered in the blade holder.  There is another video I believe, but could not find, that shows the adjustment for the back to front movement of the blade by loosening bolts holding the motor and turning the motor a hair in either direction as required to adjust the position of the blade.  Check the tension of the blade that it is tight enough to take out any slack.  When you are sawing make sure you push straight back as you turn your piece of wood to make your circle.  As you are sawing, "stop", lift your hands off the wood and if the blade causes the wood to move back into place aligned with the blade it could mean that you are pushing to the side as you push back. Hope I have not confused you and that this helps you .


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye96Cc5dgrU


Garry

2

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Delta 40-694 table not square to blade front to back

« on: August 24, 2024, 01:48:23 pm »

Hi Russell.   Pics would help if you could.  I don't really understand why you have a wider cut at the bottom if your blade is at 90 degrees side to side.  Are you able to check the squareness of the blade to the table when the blade is at the top of its stroke and again at the bottom of the stroke ?  It seems as if the top or bottom arm of the saw is moving sideways as it moves up and down.  If the blade moves slightly out of square front to back as it moves up and down should not affect the width of the kerf at the bottom but if the arm or saw blade itself moves side to side as the saw is cutting it will affect the cut causing the piece to be removed to not come out either up or down. A couple of issues could cause this situation - the bearing or bushing in the arm is worn allowing side to side movement, or the blade is not centered in the blade clamps ( that is, the top or bottom of the blade should be moved , if possible, by adjusting the clamp so the blade is centered in the clamp . 

When you say the blade is not 90 degrees front to back I think of a C-arm saw where the blade actually tilts front to back in an arc as the saw blade moves up and down .  This is the way a C-arm saw works because it only has one pivot point at the lower back of the C- arm.

I hope this may help you.  I have no experience with this saw. I have run into this kind of problem where the blade is not centered in the clamp at the top or bottom and adjusting the clamp , possibly at both top and bottom , may be required to get the blade centered and sawing at 90 degrees side to side.

Garry

3

Brag Forum / Latest project - House warming sign for gift

« on: April 30, 2022, 12:54:44 am »

Latest project - House warming sign

My latest project is a house warming gift a that a friend has requested I make.  The wood is a cutting board which they picked up at a “Winners” store locally.  Maybe not a well known source of wood for sawing but they have some beautiful cutting boards , trays, etc that can supply excellent scroll saw wood.  This one happens to be 3/4 inch Olive wood and is about 10 x 18 inches.  My friend gave me the rough design they wanted on the board and with a few tweaks and changes came up with the final creation.   The “Home Sweet Home” is raised by tilting the saw table to 4 degrees.  Because the name and date are a smaller font sawing to raise the lettering would not work so I cut them out with the table flat as I would normally do for sawing fretwork.  The size of the house , however, allowed me to again raise the portion that is the gable end of the roof and recess the door to add interest.  The outline for the house walls and base is first sawn with a # 5 Pegas MGT blade then followed up with a #2 spiral blade to widen and make this viening cut stand out .  The top edge of the Home Sweet Home is rounded by sanding and the raised and recessed parts are then glued in place.  The door sticks through the back when recessed so I saw the back portion off with a flush cut hand saw.  I still have a bit to do to finish this - put a backing on using 1/8 inch plywood, install a sawtooth hanger  and decide on what to use for a finish.  I was not sure how it would turn out with the number of knots and grain the way it is but it all held together and turned out quite well so far.


Garry

4

Introduce Yourself. / New member

« on: April 25, 2022, 04:36:39 pm »

Hi everyone.  I am new to the world of forums but here goes.    My name is Garry from Saskatchewan Canada.  I have browsed the scroll saw forum for a while now and finally decided to sign up.  I got into scroll sawing back in the early 1980’s and with the help of books by such people as Patrick Speilman  and then through scroll saw magazines and hands-on trial and error learned how to scroll saw.  I started out with a Sears Moto Saw made by Dremel with a 3 inch pin blade, then went on to a 15 inch Delta single speed and in the early 90’s made the plunge and got  a Hegner 22 inch VS. I now have 2 Hegner 22 inch saws and a Dewalt 788.  My main saw is the Hegner.  I have sawn various solid woods of different thicknesses, plywoods, OSB, acrylic, paper, cloth, antler, alabaster, thin metals, etc.  I saw mostly fretwork but have made stacked ring solid bowls, 3D ornaments and other items, signs, cards, music and jewelry boxes to name a few.  The one thing about scroll saws is that they can be used to saw just about anything.  New patterns and ways of using the saw are coming out all the time - they are so very versatile.   I hope to continue learning more about using the scroll saw and hopefully I can pass on some of the things I have learned over the years and help someone where I am able.   
 
Let the sawdust keep flying
Garry

Note: I tried to add another topic under brag forum on my latest project but ran into problems with uploading pictures.  I am not computer savvy so need to find some help doing that .

5

General Scroll Saw Talk / Kinked blades

« on: April 15, 2022, 11:46:34 pm »

This is really a continuation of the topic from Feb. 13, 2021.  I too had a problem with kinked blades on my Dewalt 788.  I did find that I had a bent tip on the end of the wing bolt of the bottom chuck.   I have replaced both chucks on the Dewalt now with new Pegas chucks but haven't used it enough to know if this has solved my problem.  Over the years I have had the blades kink like a hockey stick on my Hegner also.  That one was an easy fix in that I did not have my blade centered in the blade holder.   Once the blade was centered there was no more problem with kinked blades.  In Patrick Spielman's book The new scroll Saw Handbook, he places the cause as the chuck not having the ability to pivot when pressure from sawing is placed on the blade and therefore the tip of the blade bends like a hockey stick because the blade holder does not move with the blade when pressure is applied during sawing.  I think there may be a combination of causes - the inability of the blade holder to mover with the blade,  the tension on the blade ( less tension seemed to lessen the tendency of the blade to bend in my case), the rate at which you push the wood through the blade (slow down the feed rate and let the blade do its job)  and the adjustment of the set screw and wing bolt.    Just some food for thought.  Hope this may help you in solving kinked blades with your saw.