Messages

91

The Coffee Shop / Steves "Plumber" pattern Jan 20th

« on: January 20, 2016, 11:37:42 am »

I saw the new pattern that Steve Good posted in email and just had a FIT!
Steve please review that pattern and use a PIPE WRENCH on it instead of a CRESCENT WRENCH! Plumbers seldom use crescent wrenches but, they always have pipe wrenches! 
Just joking a bit, I'm not at all upset. I just saw the pattern and made that observation first thing.

Rog

92

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Rip Fence for scroll saw?

« on: January 20, 2016, 11:27:01 am »

No, you don't have to spend more money on a table saw. And no, there is no such thing as a rip fence for a scroll saw.
What you will have to do is practice, cut slowly, practice, guide the line into the blade, practice, take your time, practice.
You can sand the edges down for a smoother edge by taping a piece of sand paper to a flat surface (bench, table or a piece of glass or Formica or something). But of course you might want to cut the pieces a sliver larger to allow for the sanding loss.

Rog

93

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: sanding

« on: January 12, 2016, 11:31:58 am »

It depends on what you are sanding.
If you need to remove material (straight line isn't straight or curve isn't smooth) I use 80 or even 60 grit to speed things up.
If you are sanding just prior to finishing, 120 0r 220 usually works well.
If you are polishing a finish to get a deeper, glossier look, I use brown paper sack and then maybe a coat of paste wax (and rub it hard) to make it silky smooth to the touch.
It all counts as "sanding" to me.

Rog

94

Ask Steve a question. / Re: newbie's starter project

« on: January 07, 2016, 11:56:27 am »

Jim,
I really like your project. Especially for a first time try, you did great.
As far as the narrow part breaking off, well "poo-poo occurs" for all of us. I probably would have saved the broken piece and glued it to the backer in the appropriate place.
As far as staining goes, I never stain or put any finish on until the whole part is cut out. I seldom stain the top piece anyway and the backer is OK to stain (in my book) to get the separate distinction of color but, do not put any oil or coating on until the gluing is done. Glue doesn't like to stick to oil or finish very well. You can use a Q-Tip, tooth pick, very small brush, or something to get the stain down onto the edges of the cutouts if you really need to. I don't "dip" finish at all because it usually takes longer to dry out.
I usually wipe on a coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil) to pop the grain on the wood as the last thing and maybe a coat of shellac, lacquer or polyurethane on top of that depending on the look or gloss that I want.
Scroll saw items are not used or handled much for the most part so almost any finish (even none) will last for a long time.
The best tips I can give you for focusing while cutting.....
Your eyes should be on the point where the line meets the blade.
Feed slowly and let the saw do the hard work.
Take a deep breath before starting, shrug your shoulders a bit and start cutting REMBERING TO BREATHE WHILE CUTTING! People tend to hold their breath when trying to concentrate and that is a bad thing! If you find yourself stopping a bit to take a breath, you are not breathing when the blade is working which is the most important time to focus.
Good luck with your next few projects....Oh yea, KEEP THAT FIRST ONE FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE!....Stay in touch and keep making saw dust. And practice, practice and practice.

Rog

95

Pattern Requests. / Re: Wooden chandelier pattern

« on: January 04, 2016, 11:34:47 am »

I'm not sure just how big your chandelier needs to be or what material you want to use but, I would suggest that you use one of the 3-D Christmas ornament patterns and enlarge it a few times to get the size. Maybe turn it upside down also. ?
At least the 3-D ornaments may give you some ideas on construction for a chandelier.

Rog

96

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Height saw setup

« on: January 03, 2016, 12:22:39 pm »

Front edge of table at 39" tilted up toward the back.
Sit on a bar stool with window directly behind the saw.
Foot peddle on the floor for ease of use (although it does move around some) so both hands can control the material and I don't have to stop and use a hand to stop the saw.
Been using the same set-up for 10 years and never felt the need to change anything. I will admit that after using the same set-up for so long and you get so used to it, there are probably better things to try but, I'm just too lazy to do anything about it.
 
Rog

97

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Getting Out

« on: December 30, 2015, 10:48:46 am »

I'm sorry that you feel that you have to give up wood working. You must not enjoy it as well as another hobby and that is OK. To each his own and everyone enjoys some sort of hobby and that is good.
My neighbor spends his time playing golf, which is defiantly not my cup of tea, and doesn't know walnut from pine. We were talking one day and got off on to how much money is spent on our hobbies.......Let's just not go there now!
I would suggest that if there is a wood working club or if you know someone else that is into wood working, go ask if they would be interested in buying your equipment or helping you to dispose of it.
My very good friend, neighbor and fellow wood worker died a few years ago and I helped his widow with an advertised "wood working tool" yard sale. We got rid of most of his tools (I even bought some of them) in a Saturday afternoon.

Rog

98

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Foot Pedal on Makita SJ401?

« on: December 29, 2015, 12:01:20 pm »

I have a "dead man" foot switch on my De Walt saw, and I covered the regular on/off switch with packing tape to keep the saw dust out of it.
I like the instant on and off just by moving my foot and can use both hands to control the work piece.

Rog

99

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Which is better?

« on: December 24, 2015, 11:46:32 am »

I forgot about the old trick of using a screwdriver as a hammer and pinching the plastic with pliers to get the tube on the nipple.
My bad, I was thinking of making it an easier and a little more refined way of doing it.

Rog

100

Brag Forum / Re: Christmas gifts

« on: December 23, 2015, 10:45:02 am »

Gifts all wrapped and under the tree.





Rog

101

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Which is better?

« on: December 23, 2015, 10:32:52 am »

busco,
If you are talking about putting the flex tube onto the steel nipple at the side of the saw.....Stick the end of the flex tube into HOT water (not boiling) for a few minutes and it should slip on with out too much trouble.  A little light (3in1) oil won't hurt either.

Rog

102

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: ShopSmith Scroll Saw or Craftsman Contractor Serier?

« on: December 19, 2015, 06:00:06 pm »

Now you've opened up another can of worms!
There are so many option's on what the best saw is, and they all are wrong.
I've never seen or even heard of a Shop Smith scroll saw so I have no opinion on that. It must be fairly old because I'm not even sure that they still make many tools anymore. And a Crapsman is considered a fairly good entry level saw but, there are others in the same "new" price range.
The best saw you can buy is the one YOU like in your price range.
New scroll saws vary in price from just under $200.00 to $2,000.00 as you know, and they all have good and bad features and they all have problems from time to time.
Just remember, you usually get what you pay for and buying someone else's problems is NEVER cheap. If you know the previous owner and trust what he tells you, it might be a good buy but, if it is advertised on line it is a case of "Byer Beware".

Rog

103

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Quick help with finish on scrollsaw project

« on: December 19, 2015, 05:43:48 pm »

Yes.
Sand the edges to a higher grit. And pay special to the end grain, take it to the finest grit you have.
You might also try putting on a coat of 1# cut shellac before staining. It helps control the blotching that you get on softer woods like pine especially. Shellac closes up the pores of the wood a bit and makes for a more even finish.
What do you use for a final finish? I've used shellac, and polyurethane both with good results and a lot of people use lacquer also.

Rog

104

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: under cutting

« on: December 14, 2015, 12:01:38 pm »

Just a suggestion on making sure the table is square to the blade.
I usually use an old credit card for a square to check it but, if you have a doubt.....Use a 3/4" or thicker piece of scrap and cut a straight line into one edge a short distance (1/2" to 1") and then use the piece with the cut and slide it  back into the blade from the back side of the blade. If it goes in smoothly, you are good to go but, if it doesn't align very well then your table is not 90 degrees to the blade so move the table slightly and do it again.
Just a couple of quick, easy, cheap, hints for sit-up time. Hope that helps you some time.

Rog

105

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Best finish for detailed projects?

« on: December 08, 2015, 12:29:08 pm »

Thank you for all the suggestions. I have eased up on the amount of lacquer per coat and it seems to be working very well - this hobby has taught me to be patient in almost all aspects.

I will try shellac soon but have one question which is quite specific: I live in Sweden and all the alcohol we get is coloured red (for safety reasons). Will this have an effect on the finish when used to dissolve the flakes in it?

I have no idea! You will just have to try it and see. Try just wiping a coat of alcohol on some wood to see if it stains the wood. If in does then I would say don't use it. Alcohol dries (evaporates) very quickly, so you should have an answer in  about 5 minutes!

Rog