Messages

886

Ask Steve a question. / Re: Sanding the inside and cutting

« on: November 26, 2011, 05:59:18 pm »

I try to cut right on the line but, if you should veer off a little, don't worry about it. Once the pattern is removed, no one will ever know if it is not exact.
For the most part the scroll saw blade makes a smooth enough cut that sanding is not necessary. If you do feel that some sanding is needed, you can roll or fold some sandpaper small enough to get inside of the opening. Also finger nail files and emery boards work fairly well to knock of a blip or two.
Using thin plywood (1/8"- 1/2") sanding is not really necessary as far as I'm concerned except for the fuzzies on the back (sometimes front) surfaces and those just need a scrub with some 220 grit sandpaper. On thicker hard wood you sometimes get burn marks from the blade being too hot and those might need a touch-up with a file or sand paper but for the most part are not really all that distracting once the item is done and has some finish on it.
Some of the real pros will be along to correct me where I'm wrong soon. 

Rog

887

The Coffee Shop / Re: Sorry :(

« on: November 26, 2011, 02:41:00 pm »

The color is different.

Same saw, built by the same company, with a different name.


Rog

888

The Coffee Shop / Re: Sorry :(

« on: November 24, 2011, 11:45:33 am »

Hang in there Judy. Everyone thinks they need a Cadillac but, a Ford will get you there just as fast. 

Rog

889

Pattern Requests. / Re: Coke truck ornament

« on: November 23, 2011, 06:28:38 pm »

Nice pattern Paul but, I think you got it backwards. I think what he wanted was the truck inside the bottle. You know, like a ship in a bottle. 

Rog

890

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Advice

« on: November 23, 2011, 10:17:04 am »

When making bowls or vases I use Titebond glue and spread a thin layer over all the joints and put them in my press. After the glue starts to set up I try to scrape off the squeeze out with a putty knife. After the glue has dried I sand with 50 grit then 80 grit then 120 grit and finally with 220 grit before any finish is applied. You are bound to see some glue lines but, there is not much you can do about it.

Wait!!! You said a drop of glue on the ends! Are you splitting the rings? If so, it is not a big deal. I usually cut through the rings on a diagonal and put glue on the ends where it is split and then use a rubber band as a clamp to hold it tight until the glue is entirely set up. Then sand the joint to get rid of the glue squeeze out before gluing the stack. It also helps to stagger the splits around so that it is not so evident.

Hope that helps. There is nothing like practice and experience to make things better for yourself.

Rog

891

The Coffee Shop / Re: Christmas Lighting.....

« on: November 22, 2011, 12:42:01 pm »

Now that one made me laugh out loud!! 

Rog

PS. The cat one was cute too "Post office is right"

892

General Scroll Saw Talk / Re: Excalibur saws

« on: November 21, 2011, 11:29:00 am »

If it is an American made saw that you are looking for the "Hawk" scroll saw is what your looking for. It is made in America, in Bushton, Kansas, as a matter of fact.
As a former tool salesman (MAC tools) I don't find much wrong with China or Taiwan made tools as far as quality. A company can get the quality they want, high or low, overseas at a far better labor price.
The problem that I have is that it puts allot of American workers and businesses out of a job. You can thank your local Labor Union steward for that.
Also, the average American wants a Cadillac for Volkswagen prices and that just isn't going to happen regardless of where it is made.

Rog

893

Brag Forum / Re: Knocking out Keychains..

« on: November 20, 2011, 08:51:32 pm »

I took orders for eight of that style key chain one time. My rate was $3.00 each.
I learned the hard way to charge $1.00 per letter.
The customer wanted to use LAST names and the shortest one had eight letters in it!! Each one of the 8 took twice as long to cut than a normal 4 or 5 letter first name. 
One of the key chains ended up about 1/2" square and 3" long! 

Rog

894

The Coffee Shop / Re: Stay on walkway =lawn is deadley

« on: November 20, 2011, 11:21:08 am »

The biggest cause of death is birth.
The biggest cause of birth is sex.
The biggest cause of sex comes from between our ears.

Let 'em chew on that one for awhile.

Rog

895

Tutorials, Techniques and Tips / Re: Tight turn tip from Terry

« on: November 20, 2011, 11:08:34 am »

Gabby,
Don't worry about it. I was just surprised that you hadn't done that just naturally. When I come to a sharp corner it just seems natural to stop and back off just a bit before making a turn.
I didn't mean to sound so smart @$$ with my comment either.
If it is a real sharp corner, I sometimes back up quite a ways and cross over to the other side and cut back into the point, take out the small drop piece and spin the wood around 180 degrees and cut my way out on the other line.
Just another hint for newbies trying to cut over 90 degree corners.

Rog

896

The Coffee Shop / Re: No joke

« on: November 11, 2011, 10:33:51 am »

I thought they might call him "Quits". 

Rog

897

Pattern Requests. / Re: I am stumpped!

« on: November 07, 2011, 06:36:19 pm »

I have a suggestion.
I would make a 3/4 corner view of a house with the words "Nobody's as good as" on the roof and then "I'm good" on the wall (side of the house) and then "In memory of Tracy Willaert" below that.
As far as size, you will just have to play with that. There is a lot of lettering to cut on this one.
Hope that helps or at least gives you another idea to play with.

Rog

898

Brag Forum / Re: Grand-daughters boxes

« on: November 07, 2011, 06:23:03 pm »

I went and looked!  You did good!  Little girls LOVE small boxes and as a grand dad of three little girls I know!    I've made several over the past six years.
Just keep practicing making boxes of all sizes and shapes, they are allot of fun to do and you can get very inventive with it.

Here is one (of three) that I made a about two years ago.




The box sides are cherry with a purple heart top and bottom and a cherry knob of the letters "L, O, V, E". The cherry sides are a full 2" tall and took a long time to scroll. Yes, I did get some burning but was able to sand most of it out. 

Rog

899

Brag Forum / Re: chess board

« on: November 07, 2011, 06:01:09 pm »

Rog, I glued the field to 1/2" mdf.  Do you think that will help

Bill

Yes, I'm sure it will help. How thick did you make the field?
You probably know more about chess boards than I do. I have only been wood working for about six years and had never had a problem with expansion/contraction of wood (even though I knew about it) until I made two chess boards for my son and son-in-law three years ago. It is amazing how much wood can move with just a change in humidity!
I also experienced a problem with an rather large octagon box that I made but, I'm not really sure if it was due to humidity or if a grandchild dropped it or something.
Good luck and, if you have never had a problem before, I hope your luck continues.

Rog

900

Brag Forum / Re: chess board

« on: November 07, 2011, 10:37:46 am »

Bill,
You did a real nice job on the chess board.
I have a question. Is the field (squares) floating inside the frame? If not, you might have a problem in a year or two with the corners of the frame breaking apart. I have made a few chess boards and I have had that problem. It is amazing how much the field will expand and contract with humidity. Or, did you glue the field to a backer like plywood or hardboard?
I used solid wood on my field and even though I finished both sides and edges the same it still expanded and broke the frame. I even had used finger joints on the corners of the frame for strength and they still pushed apart at two corners.
I would try to keep at least 1/8" movement for the field inside the frame. That of course requires a bit of planning ahead when cutting the parts for both the field and the frame.
You might want to google for plans of making a "real wood" chess boards to find out the secrets.

Rog